Is it removable? Some heat cycles a BFH and an anvil? That should move it. Never mind. I see the line you drew now.

What about a plastic spacer? Or more washers. Or an extra bolt on the "line" side?

 

When you posted what that part was called if looking for it, it reminds me of the ones I seen for GM ALT to adjust the belt tension.

On the "bent" bracket I would think once removed and in a vice a little hammer should get it back into shape.
It also looks like the adjuster is close to the other rod? or whatever it is can you bend out the bracket in the upper left corner of picture to give more room between them and it would put the adjuster more inline than at a angle.

The crown vic steering seams to be good, no more noise and feels good and no battery light with the new ALT installed.
The HVAC air flow will change from dash vents to defrost when under power like going up a hill and getting on the highway.
Kind of like vacuum wipers stopping when doing the same. Thinking the vacuum check valve may be bad I picked one up, $7 at the parts store.
Yesterday went to try and replace it, first was finding it, they put it between the motor and firewall under the main engine wire harness.
I had to undo a harness hold down to move the harness and can only get 1 hand in there and you need 2. I also tried for an hour to push the hoses off with screw drivers and the hoses are on there
It was already mid 80's and, in the sun, so called it off till a cooler day as it still works otherwise.
I also dont know where the vacuum can is as it is not in the engine bay so wonder if under dash? I would think about adding a 2nd one too.
Dave ----

 

Dave, will a hose remover tool fit in there? I have one like this and it has saved me a couple of times. I will be happy to bring it by.


I should have made it clear, but I wanted to straighten it without having to take it all apart and remove it. I got a monkey wrench which was a very awkward fit because I had to go sideways instead of lengthways, but I got a little grip on it and twisted it downwards a tad. All in all maybe 1/2 inch which isn't perfect but it does look a little better and little more "in line" now. And I think I have a nice space to get the exhaust through there.


The HEI distributor is due to arrive today, however I have a memorial service for Don to attend this afternoon and then later in the evening going to dinner with friends so I am not sure if I will get a chance to try to fire the engine up today or not! But I am looking forward to hearing it run. Or seeing if it will run...

 

When I got home from dinner last night I took a few minutes to pull the old distributor, but that did not go as planned - it was frozen in place. So I sprayed it all down with penetrating oil and went to take my nap because I had to work later. So throughout the night any time I'd get a few minutes I would go mess with it. I took off the vacuum advance module so I could tap it with a hammer to get it to turn, but what I realized was happening was that the top was turning but not the base!


I fought that quite a bit, it was 4:30am before I got it out. I put a propane torch around the base to heat it up, sprayed it all again and let it soak, then used a pry bar on the left side while tapping upwards with a hammer on the right side. Eventually she eased upwards and revealed her grody hole.


After that, a little cleanup then stab the new one in, of course having to pull it out at least once to reinstall "one tooth over" to get the best line up. But she's in there now. Ugly yes, but should work. They don't provide a pigtail so it looks like I've got to go to Autozone or O'Reilly before I attempt to fire it.





This gave me another chance to verify my wiring order, so it should be correct!

 

Well I did the 351w fire up today!

First attempt netted a couple of coughs like it wanted to fire, but nothing more. Tom was swinging the distributor wildly with a huge range of timing, I felt like it was pretty close where I had it at the start and should have just moved it a little back and forth to find the sweet spot.

Shut off the camera to work on the fuel leak, but had no luck stopping it. During a test fire with camera off the truck lurched forward a little. It was still connected to my 69 F100 at the back via the shaft I use when I pull it out & push it back in so it couldn't go anywhere, thank goodness. But that proves the shifter linkage is backwards, this happens often when you swap a car transmission into a truck (or vice versa). The car has the linkage above the rotating lever which is for a console shifter, and a truck has the linkage below the rotating lever which is for a column shift. I remember on the AOD I put in the Mazdaratti I had to remove the pan & filter to get in there, then remove the thing to get to the other thingy, slide it out, turn it over, then slide it back in (obviously put a new rubber o-ring on it while you're that far in). But in this case, now I know, all the way down to Low 1 position means park!

Even though we couldn't solve the fuel leak we decided to just run the pump until the float bowls were full then shut it off, so the leak would stop and then run it on the gas that was in the float bowls.

 

Thanks for the offer on the tool but there just is no room to get it down between the motor and firewall and under the motor wiring harness.
I might be able to get a something down there to cut the short hose on the supply side and hope there is enough slack in the other hoses to pull it up to get 2 hand on it to get the other 2 hoses off.
Thing is the other 2 hoses are part of the plastic hose that goes into the firewall to the controls or what ever. If I break them I am F'ed as I dont know how to replace them without pulling the dash and HVAC system.

On the distributor they can put up a good fight. I have seen guys break them trying to get them out.
Being you had the vacuum can off some say you can use a oil filter wrench to try and turn the distributor but I have never tried it.

As for the pig tail you should not need it as you can use a female spade on the power wire to slip on the power side of the distributor.
I know 1 of the other wires is a tach oh maybe you need a ground not that I think of it. Been a while since I had a HEI cap apart for a change out and think there is a metal ground strap from the coil body, 2 screws hold it and coil in place on 1 side, to the plug. I could be wrong too as I think everyone calls them "1 wire" distributors?
Dave ----

 

Hey, that's great it turned over and idled.
I agree. Whoever that was should have left the timing alone until you at least had it idling.
Hard to tell from the angle exactly where the fuel leak was coming from. Almost looks like you need a new bowl gasket.
Weird about the trans linkage. Can you flip it around? Or are you going to have to use it backwards all the time. Would certainly prevent any theft.

 

He was turning it way too far, and way too fast. Just move it a little and give it time for the engine to crank over a few times before moving it again. He's very ADHD like a squirrel on crack

So this is what I found since the video. I took the fitting off thinking I can zoom in with my camera for a pic and find a hairline crack, but instead I found I have completely the wrong fitting. The previous had 3/8 inverted flare threaded in there so I just went back with similar connector, but that was wrong. It's not supposed to seat against the bottom and seal like a flare, and it's not supposed to seal via the threads like NPT, but supposed to seal against the surface with like a flange type fitting. So I've just got to verify the thread size and count and order the right one, there's a hundred different options and they're all like 16 or 20 bucks each so I don't want to get the wrong one if I can avoid it.


About the trans linkage, yes you can flip it around, but since Ford hates us they decided to make it to where you have to drop the pan and release it from the inside, then flip it around and reinsert it. This is what I did on my other old truck several years ago, to avoid the effort of re-clocking the shifter arm. I took a piece of gate bracket from Lowes and cut & bent it the way I wanted, then attached to the arm. So the red line indicates the pivot point, so then instead of mounting the linkage to the top and rotating it backwards I could mount it to the homemade gate bracket below the pivot point and have it rotate correctly.


But I don't plan to use that transmission anyway so I'm not going to bother with fixing it right now.

 

Seems like an easy fix to get a new connector for the fuel issue. I couldn't see it leaking from the fitting on the video. Just saw it dripping from the bottom.

What transmission are you planning to use?

 

Well I already ordered the wrong part at least once, I got the threads switched around in my head. Also I've got a 5/16 hard line but it seems like most Holley or Edelbrock are made with fittings that expect you to use 3/8 fuel line.

I am planning to use the C6 transmission out of my parts truck. It has a running 300 motor and the transmission is believed to be good.

 

"ADHD like a squirrel on crack" He dose have a little of that.
Yes way too much timing movement. At first I was thinking no spark and it did not even try, guess no gas to fire off?
Then popping out the carb was thinking firing order off.

Tom told me yesterday at the cruse you guys got it running was good to hear that and must feel good knowing it runs now.
I did not get over to your side of the parking lot yesterday as Dave A. had my ear and then got talking to new member with the tan chevy pickup.

On that gas leak let me go thru my Holley parts and pit box to see what I got as I think I got a fitting and gaskets.
Yes that uses 2 flat gaskets and a banjo type fitting & bolt or 1 gasket and the inverted flare fitting but let me look.

On the idle speed is that a vacuum secondary or double pumper as I cant see a vacuum can for the secondary.
Either way the arm from the vacuum or linkage from the main throttle should keep it closed.
Also could the fast idle cam from the choke be holding the main throttle open a little?
I think to make sure it is not a vacuum leak next time it is running try and cover the carb with a rag a little at a time and see if that changes the idle speed.
If it is a pumper there is a secondary throttle blade adjustment that someone could have messed with that is holding it open.
You get to this from the bottom with a small flat blade screw driver, I have never messed with this ever but they say you can.
If you do mess with it they say to remove it and install from the top so you dont have to remove the carb and flip it over to get to it for adjustments.
Dave ----

 

Wayne saw the video and gave him a hard time "Tom was turning the timing back to last week" lol. I put it back where I had it while off camera (I had a piece of tape with a mark on the valve cover so I knew exactly where 10 before should be). And with a squirt of brake cleaner she fired up.

The vacuum thinga-ma-bob for the secondaries is on the other side. I have noticed that it doesn't hold the throttle blades tightly closed, I get a couple of degrees of relatively easy wiggle, so I was thinking maybe those blades are letting air in. I put a light spring on the secondary bracket to sort of hold it closed. Just a temporary thing to see if that is the issue. But I had not considered the fast idle so thanks for pointing that out, one thing I can definitely check when I have it running again.

That new guy with the 3/4 ton Chevy I think is named Ryan. He had a shirt that said "Dad Jokes.... Loading" and that caught Norman's attention, so he stopped him and started telling dad jokes. Of course not to be outdone I started in with my own dad jokes and before you know it the 3 of us had gone through a couple dozen cheesy jokes

 

I was happy I had the right fitting for the carb and was able to get a leak free gas line to the carb now.

On the choke I know you moved the lever and it really did not do much but now that i think of it I did not check if there is a screw for the fast idle or if it uses the same screw for the normal idle speed?
That should be checked into before you / we condemn the carb all together and I did not think of it when I was there
If that is not it then maybe pull the carb off and check if the blades are closed tight to the bores and if not what could be holding them open?
Maybe the blades are not centered on the shaft & bores and holding them open? I know you said you removed them from the shafts so that can be a issue.

I would also check with Wayn if he thinks 1 of them carb's would work without rebuilding just as a test. They all looked pretty good shape and would give it a try for S & G.
Dave ----

 

I'm very happy you had that fitting, it was nice to run it without leaks. But dang she drank a lot of gas in only 1 or 2 minutes.

When I closed the choke I could hear the engine start to slow down and stutter so I opened it back up. I yelled to you that I had closed the choke but don't know if you heard me over the motor. I did it a second time later and again I could tell it started to choke the engine down.

When you removed the air cleaner and then used your hands to close off the various sides, the first time you closed off the secondaries I thought it slowed the RPM's down and might explain the extra air, but then the second time you did it over the secondaries it seemed like it didn't make any difference.

I did not think about the fast-idle speed adjustment until hours later when we were on our way to dinner. I'm not sure where it is I need to poke around a little.

If I was taller I could stand directly over the carb and look down the bores with a light to see if they were all the way closed.

 

Forgot to say, about the door latch not working from the outside. That, and the front headlight trim coming loose, all that happened when I was underneath with the air chisel for all that time trying to drive those rivets out. It vibrated the truck so much everything was falling apart. Sh-t fell on the floor from under the dash, etc.

Ok look at this pic, it's scary. It looks like one throttle blade is askew with a screw missing! That would explain all of this. Now, where is the screw? I need to pull the carb off and see what is going on.