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Bill
How dose that seal the bleeder threads to the bleeder as I have seen the threads bleed air when you use a suction type bleeder tool on the bleeders.
Then again I guess if you are pushing fluid from the bleeder to the master leaking bleeder threads is not a big deal other than making a mess from them leaking.
I say this because I have used a suction type bleeder that uses shop air to create the vacuum and it looked like it always had air because of the leaking threads.
It pushes fluid/air out wherever there is a leak, I have to wrap the line at the master cylinder with towels or a cloth or it will make a big mess. Use it on my 1948 Piper with two cylinders, one on each rudder pedal for left and right brake calipers, I crack the line at each cylinder, no master cylinder on my airplane, gets a good solid pedals, too. Happy to let folks use it, but I use aircraft Mil Spec red hydraulic/brake fluid.
Looks like we were posting at the same time. We got to the cruise in early, around 3 or just a little after. The Pantera guy was there, we talked to him for a little while. The guy with the green Falcon wagon arrived but they all went inside to eat and I didn't speak to him. Sat with Marlene and Dexter the VW guy for a bit, then went over to visit with Tommy and his wife, the GTO couple. She was telling me the car has a terrible whine / grind sound whenever he lets off the gas. He told her the car was "making noise" and took her for a ride, and when she heard it she said "that's not making noise; that's a cry for help!" From what they described I would guess his rear end is on it's way out. I left maybe 4:30 or so, had been a long day and I was ready to come home.
That bleeder Norm gifted me that pushes fluid, I used it at the very start to fill the system. It did make quite a mess though and it was difficult to tell what all was leaking around the rubber nub that goes onto the bleeder vs what might be a leak from the caliper or line. So after it seemed like it was full of fluid I stopped using and moved on to the old "press the pedal then open the bleeder" system.
Mary was at Woofstock till 3:30 and she said she had to rest before feeding the fur kids and why we get there later. We also hit up Char Gill to put on our feed bad before heading over.
I did see the wagon & bug but Tommy and his wife were by themselves so I parked by them. Mary & Tommy's wife talked, Think that is the first time I had seen her as she has not been to the meetings or shows / cruises so it was good the 2 got to talk. I got talking to Tommy and the fellow with the Jeep and never made it over to the guys where the wagon & bug were before they left. I think when the rest went in to eat is when they left?
Tommy did not say and I did not hear anything strange when he left, will have to ask the next time to listen maybe I can guide him what I think it is.
The only rear axle I had go bad was the K5 Blazer that ran low in lube when pulling the trailer, did not know as it showed no signs of leaking. To get back to CT from MD I had to fill it with motor oil as I did not have enough gear lube.
Take that back the Durango the dealer pulled it apart for new bearing as they seen metal flakes in the lube when changing, I never heard anything before the new bearing but after the work it made noise and took it right back.
It was ok after that said they installed a new carrier. It is making noise but with 295K on the clock I am not going to worry about it.
Originally Posted by rideandfly
It pushes fluid/air out wherever there is a leak, I have to wrap the line at the master cylinder with towels or a cloth or it will make a big mess. Several airframe/powerplant/Inspector aircraft use this method. Use it on my 1948 Piper. Happy to loan it out when needed.
On the fuel pump, sounds like just sitting is the fuel pump's enemy!
It sounds like you and John have the same "mess" when bleeding the system with that type of bleeder.
I have asked other how they stop the air at the threads and some say they pull the bleeder and wrap Teflon tape around the threads to stop that.
Just seams like work to me and I am lazy
I made a homemade pressure bleeder using 3" PVC pipe and fittings. It uses shop air at 10 PSI max and my shop air is 175+ PSI and no regulator so I had to make up a regulator to use it, dont know what I did with it now after 6 years.
Thing is it is also messy because the hose from fluid holder to the cap on the master is full and I did not have a valve at the end like I see yours dose.
Also the master is filled level to the top and that also leaks all over but I guess if I was to do the "pump & bleed" it would lower the master level some but when using the pressure bleeder it is because you dont have help right
That is why I just bought a Motive Products power bleeder but looking at it now I wonder if it will have the same problem as mine and the hose full of fluid as I dont see a valve at the end
I may have to make a change or 2 for less of a mess making.
Dave ----
I think I figured a way to get air out of that line that links the two sides of the caliper together, and it's so simple I'm surprised I didn't think of it before. I simply drill a small hole right in the center; voila! Air can easily escape...
It is so simple you overlook drilling a hole in the center of the line even I did not think of it
I may have a small drill bit if you need one
Dave ----
There's an airbnb near my house. Vacation rental. And a few weeks ago the people staying there tossed out a trolling motor in the garbage when they left. I'm talking about a nice minn kota 55lb thrust trolling motor just sticking way out of the trash bin. So I dug it out. Took it back to my shop and was going to see what was wrong with it. Worst case it really is trash and I use it for parts or take it to the dump. I took the control unit apart and checked all the wires, switches etc. Turns out one of the blade connectors was loose and a little corroded. I cut it off, cleaned it up and put on a new one. Hooked it up to a marine battery and it worked. But only in forward and only three speeds. No reverse. So I checked a few more connections and turns out the the rotary switch is bad. I just ordered one for $15. So I now have a $300 trolling motor for $15 and about an hour of my time.
That's great James, very satisfying to make a find and a repair like that!
Dave I used the pressure bleeder this afternoon. I got to thinking; the reservoir is full, so I don't NEED to make a huge mess by pumping in pressurized brake fluid. I just put the cap on (which took some effort) and then pressurized air in the canister to 10psi, then I went around and did my bleeding. On the cross lines that we talked about on the front calipers, I cracked one open and it took a good second or second & a half before fluid started dribbling out. I closed it and came back later and that time the fluid was immediate. So maybe I did find some air. The other side was exactly the same; nothing at first and then fluid. But at 10psi you don't get the high pressure blast that you are used to with food pedal bleeding. So even though I think I got air out (and the pedal has improved) I want to do regular pedal bleeding one more time.
Underneath the 83 pickup to measure for my piece of angle metal to repair the ridge by the end of the floor, and saw this thing on the frame rail. I had noticed it many times before and always thought "I need to remove that" but always been in the middle of doing something else, and then never cross my mind again. So this time I went and grabbed a socket and took it off. Had about 3 pounds of caked mud and crap behind it. I'm not sure what it was for but I am guessing maybe it's job was to hold the exhaust pipe.
James good for you and 1 less thing in land fill.
I did the same thing with a gas powered hand blower and weed whacker that was left at my sons house when he moved in.
A little fuel line, new spark plugs and sometime and I got them running again. Want to do a little more testing before I give them back.
John hope that is where the problem was, air trapped in them cross over lines.
As for the PSI being 10 or higher I dont think it matters as I believe it is the flow of fluid that pushes the air through the system and out when bleeding.
I dont think it would hurt to do the pump and bleed. I have a eye doctor visit, yearly normal eye doctor so I wont be able to see for the day with the drops they give you.
Tomorrow I have another doctor visit for x-rays that just came up at 12pm. I am open Friday & Saturday if you need a hand.
I guess Sunday too unless I go to Garner cars & coffee by the coffee shop, nice little gathering in that centers parking lot next door.
Dave ----
I like that Sunday Cars & Coffee in Garner, I might attend that as well. It just depends, I have been wanting to go visit my daughter in Hampstead but she was busy last weekend and not sure about this weekend yet.
Inside the carport on an overcast day, you can't really tell how faded the tail lights are on my 66, but in person especially on a sunny day, you can see how bad they are.
These are replacement LED tail lights are and only 2 or 3 years old. By comparison the 60 year old factory ones were not this faded when I removed them. I was just about to order new ones for $99 a pair when I thought, what about some kind of transparent spray paint? So I checked and found this, available at Walmart online but not in the store near me. So for 11 bucks we will see how long this lasts!
A couple of years I posted this video showing my tachometer "bounce".
I never replaced it, it still works the same way. It was a $15 tach from the JcWhitney catalog back in the 90's so it don't owe me any money after this much time. I've poking around looking at other options. The original style "rally pac" with the tach & clock on the steering column are very expensive, around $500. I found another option for a lot less scratch. This is only $45:
But these only hold 2-1/16 size gauges which is pretty small, I read that the original rally pac gauges were 2-5/8. Too bad nobody makes a 3D printed copy for cheap that has larger diameter pods, although maybe it was purposely kept smaller in order to not block the view of the rest of the panel behind it, which the rally pac always did get in the way of seeing the temp gauge and fuel gauge etc. I just need to find matching gauges that are a decent quality but not too expensive. If they have a green backlight and a classic font will be even better!
I forgot about that bracket you pulled off the pickup.
I dont ever remember seeing anything like that on either of my 81's and you know I pulled each one completely apart so dont know what it could be for.
On the Mustang lights I knew they were not that old.
Dose the outer chrome remove from the red lenses? If so you can polish the red part and then I would coat them with a clear.
I would think one of them head light renew kits would work or you can used compound and a machine to polish them.
On your tach what size is that and dose it remove from the cup it is in?
I think you get what you pay for but I went to Speed Hut https://speedhut.com/categories/gaug...lphaasc&page=1
And gave a look to see what they may have as I know you could get any face & font on them you wanted and they came in different sizes.
I dont remember what size tachometer I have in the Javelin and I have it installed where the clock was to the left and the clock made smaller and to the center for the dash.
Just 1 option you could go with and you can get them with a shift light too.
Have you looked into Sun Super Tach that was used back in the day or Sunpro Tach?
Dave ----
I posted the question about the bracket in the Bullnose group on facebook and got 2 comments right away saying it held the catalytic converter. Seems reasonable because it could easily be made to reach the exhaust but it's very heavy duty and you wouldn't think you'd need something that substantial just for pipe.
I looked at your speedhut link, wow they are pricy! I know you are right about 'you get what you pay for". I think I found an Autometer and a VDO that both look good, but they're kinda pricy too. I had my tach mounted on the steering column years ago but I moved it when I repainted the interior 10 years ago. I just had a metal strap wrapped around with a screw through it to hold the base. I don't mind it being down low but the problem is I don't have a lot of room, so it's in the way of the drink holder and cramped by the fan switch. I think my current size is 3" but I need to go out there with a tape measure and verify that.
A bracket for the cat
Did you remove it up at the front of the exhaust system?
If so I would not think it would be that full of mud / dirt.
I did see the speed hut had gauges of 2 1/16", 2 5/8", 3" and 4" that is as far as I looked on sizes.
I wonder if you did a Google search for the size you want what would come up?
Dave ----
The bracket was roughly in line with the back portion of the door. But remember my theory that this truck was dunked in a pond or something, because of all the other evidence I've found with mud where it shouldn't be. I've gotten underneath with a pressure washer a couple of times but the shape of bracket protected the crap behind it from getting a direct shot of high pressure water.
The further I go looking at aftermarket gauges for the 66, the more I am starting to lean towards a reproduction Mustang part. It would be the larger size gauges and would also look original. Two different styles, the first is what was used on the Mustang in 64 and 65, this is the one everyone wants because it says MUSTANG, it says RALLY PAC, and it has an 8,00 RPM tach. Sells for $400. The second style has a dial tach instead of a sweep gauge and also sells for $400 with the 8,000 RPM tach, or $315 with the 6,000 RPM tach. This is what was used starting in 1966 and without MUSTANG printed on it, dealers could offer them to customers with Fairlanes, Falcons, etc.
By the time I bought the aftermarket holder ($45) and 2 gauges at $150 each I am already past the price of the 6,000 RPM tach. Since it's a reproduction it will be the same size, use the same font, and have the same green backlighting as everything else. I was thinking if I do it, I would buy the 6k in white and use red vinyl dye to match my interior color.
This hobby will make you go broke fast
I would think the black would look good mounted to the column but then again it would stand out as the column is red IIRC
I just saw that the clock was marked in 24 hours and had to go back and see what the Javelin one was and it was also in 24 hours
There is a adjusting cable / **** that runs from the clock down to the bottom of the dash that always breaks and no one makes a replacement, I have a good one.
My clock did not work so I replaced the guts and painted the needles, did that to all the dash gauges, and it all look brand new but ..........
The fuel gauge had a "low fuel" warning light that did not work the way I thought it should every time, everything else did, so I replaced all the gauges with the Speed Hut ones to look factory till you looked close at them.
I mounted the tach were clock should be, speedo to 160 MPH and the AMC rally pack in the center is where I put the clock and vacuum gauge, I forget what was factory other than vacuum.
I think originally they were "camera case" black to match the gauge panel, that would be 64-65, but then in the 66 model I think you could get it to match interior color. Or possibly it was factory installed black, and dealer add-on could be your choice of color. Neither one would look bad I, it's either going to match the panel or match the column!
I did my 66 tail lights, I don't think clear coating them would do the trick, if you get it wet you get an idea of what it will look like cleared and it was still frosty. The red shade tint looks pretty good although I think I got a can with a bad sprayer, it would intermittently spit out large amounts in between spraying correctly. But not enough to cause any problems.
Before: frosty!
I found the white wire had been crimped in 2 places, it got caught between the housing and the lens!
You can see badly UV damaged it was where the chrome bezel was not protecting it.
Two soft coats of red shade tint and they look pretty good.
So the chrome dose remove from the light. It looks a lot better.
I think I would have tried to polish them first and then a few coats of tint.
Dose the tint protect from UV?
I know SEM paint makes a clear that protects from UV as I used it on the dash of the Javelin when I restored it.
I got little more room in my garage today
My son did vary little cleaning of his room but little is better than none.
He also took some things from my garage back to his place.
He said he is off all week and is going to come back with a trailer to haul more stuff back to his place but we will see.
He is off because my grandson's birthday and his mom and step dad are up from FL for the week.
We were going to have a party but the place said min of 15 people and being new to the area they were only going to have like 5 so who knows what's going on for a party?
Thing is ex / step dad and my wife & I are vary uneasy with each other so putting us all together for a long time might not be so good
But I am willing to do it for my grandson Logan but with him is school during the week so anything in the evening is kind of out.
I also have to prep Thursday for a doctor thing on Friday so both days are out and Saturday we have the clubs car show, hope I am up to it after Friday's visit.
Sorry to say Logan may not get a good party this year
Dave ----
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