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Was it 2008 or 2009 that the 3V 4.6L was an option? If you've got the 3V you have a bit more engine than the famous 2V. Not that more engine makes up for not having a 3/4 ton but its a minor plus.
Was it 2008 or 2009 that the 3V 4.6L was an option? If you've got the 3V you have a bit more engine than the famous 2V. Not that more engine makes up for not having a 3/4 ton but its a minor plus.
2008 is the two valve. Three valve didn’t come out until 2009.
2008 is the two valve. Three valve didn’t come out until 2009.
2V is a great engine. Many of our sub contractors (plumbers, electricians, drywall) have the 2V in their vans that tow a tool trailer loaded out not as much as you're towing but probably pretty close. 400-500 thousand miles on a lot of those vans.
FYI: I've just about figured out what's wrong with my refrigerator. I'm waiting on the part. If my replacement part fixes it, I'll let everyone know how I figured it out.
Basically, for my issue (lights on, fan on, not cooling), it's either the compressor board or the compressor. If the three pins of the compressor show very little resistance on a multimeter (like a couple of ohms), then the compressor is good, and it's the compressor board (as long as 12v is going into the compressor board). If there was no light and no fan, and it wasn't cooling, and 12v was going into the circuit board, the circuit board would be bad.
An axle code 19 on a Ford F150 is interchangeable with other axles that have the same gear ratio. The number 19 indicates a 3.55 ratio, and this code is also known as L9.
Here are some other axle codes for Ford F150s:
15: 3.15 ratio, also known as L5
27: 3.31 ratio, also known as L3
26: 3.73 ratio, also known as B6
H9: 3.55 ratio, also known as L9
You can find a car's gear ratio by decoding its VIN. The VIN is often located on the driver's side of the dashboard, where the dashboard meets the windshield, or on a sticker inside the driver's side door.
Originally Posted by Dave1972
I tell you one thing…this park is a gem! I highly recommend it. Sewer and water hookup at each site…right off the Mississippi River.
Starlink works GREAT!
Originally Posted by Dave1972
FYI: I've just about figured out what's wrong with my refrigerator. I'm waiting on the part. If my replacement part fixes it, I'll let everyone know how I figured it out.
Basically, for my issue (lights on, fan on, not cooling), it's either the compressor board or the compressor. If the three pins of the compressor show very little resistance on a multimeter (like a couple of ohms), then the compressor is good, and it's the compressor board (as long as 12v is going into the compressor board). If there was no light and no fan, and it wasn't cooling, and 12v was going into the circuit board, the circuit board would be bad.
What you have is a 120V AC compressor and the board you are talking about is a small inverter converting 12 volts DC to AC for the compressor.
I took a closer look (haven't looked in a long time) and they have gone to a permanent magnet motor that are not 120V but instead a inverter driven motor that's really not a DC motor or a 120V but variable frequency motor similar to the inverter compressors used in the high efficiency variable speed a/c units.
We have a residential frig the draws 56W off the same inverter that runs our entertainment center and our chest freezer. A lot simpler and cheaper.
I took a closer look (haven't looked in a long time) and they have gone to a permanent magnet motor that are not 120V but instead a inverter driven motor that's really not a DC motor or a 120V but variable frequency motor similar to the inverter compressors used in the high efficiency variable speed a/c units.
We have a residential frig the draws 56W off the same inverter that runs our entertainment center and our chest freezer. A lot simpler and cheaper.