Yeah I just have the bulb swapped. From my understanding that can cause issues with the circuit, causing CC to think the brakes are being applied.

This is what I'm thinking I need on my front springs. https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-co...R-DFCW-98-250B

When I turn, on wet pavement ESPECIALLY, I get a clunk in the front end, and its my springs shifting back and forth. Assuming these are to prevent that.

edit: Just ran down and took a look at it an actually, you can see where the old bolt is sheared off, on both sides, a few inches in front of the axle where the old clips are. Definitely getting some of these ordered. Our springs should be 3" wide if I recall.

 

I got the fix for that. But you may not like it. Coil spring swap it. Lol

 

Not putting that $$ into this rust bucket 🤣. Need to find me an Arizona F350 dually 4 door, so I can build the ultimate hotshot rig 😎

 

Quit stealing our trucks, hard enough finding one not beat to hell here.. 😆

 

You should see what the North East has to offer. I have no intentions of going back over the road unless I find the unicorn truck and freight prices come back around. I have a gravy local job now where I don't have to beat on my own equipment

 

Got play around with Forscan today, BOO (OFF) BPA (ON) when foot is not touching the brake. To double confirm this, I pulled the pigtail from the sensor, put a small jumper on the 2 connections on the pigtail, instantly BPA OFF. Double checked my LED 3rd brake light and swapped an Incan bulb in no change. Sensor it is. Weird how things randomly let go. Time to dig up this ford part number.

For anyone thats interested, what used to be a $20 fix is now a $111.00 fix from Ford , Is this one of those try the NAPA one out kind of things?

 

Key Words = "Cruise Control"

These key words may prove useful in saving you $111.00.

Nothing random about it. The original sensor, made by Texas Instruments, had a faulty membrane that degraded over time, and that was subject to a MASSIVE recall, effecting most Ford vehicles manufactured in that era, many of which spontaneously burned to the ground in horrific vehicle fires, sometimes taking down the house with it, if garaged.

Ford's massive recall was described as a "Speed Control" (aka cruise control) recall, because the operation of this membrane switch is the means by which the control of vehicle speed reverts back to the driver when the brake pedal is touched. The membrane in this switch would fail, exposing brake fluid to a constant hot circuit... hot even when the vehicle is off and parked. Many a Ford fire has been traced back to the fault of this membrane, thus NHTSA imposed a recall on Ford that effected millions of Ford vehicles.

Ford approached this Speed Control recall in several different stages.

First Recall, (can't recall the number or exact year), Ford asked owners to come to the dealership so that the switch could be disconnected, which would disable cruise control. That's it. That was the fix. It was reasoned that the loss of cruise control was better than the loss of life. I received an invitation from Ford for this fix. I declined, because I'm perfectly capable of unplugging a harness connector. But those who did have Ford execute this "fix", and never came back for the subsequent fixes, would not have working cruise control.

Second Recall, 05S28, Ford's subsequent fix maintained the function of cruise control by introducing an intermediary Fused Jumper Harness (FJH), part number 4W1Z-14A411-BC, between the faulty membrane switch on the master cylinder and the original constant hot harness that it connected to. The idea here was that if the membrane did fail, excess current would flow though the fused jumper harness and pop the fuse(s). These fuses have individual black rubber caps over them. I suppose if a vehicle that had this second type of recall fix done... now had blown fuses today... then cruise control might not work anymore. (Note that these fuses are not in either of the fuse panels, and are not in the factory workshop manuals, as they were added after the fact of production, so these fuses would be very hard to find unless one knows where to look on Fords of this era).

Third Recall, 08S01, was essentially a parts inventory simplification called a Universal Fused Jumper Harness (UFJH) that simultaneously replaced inventories of the previous 4W1Z-14A11-BC and 8W1Z-14A11-BB (when the recall was expanded to encompass more models of Fords found to be affected)with a revised common part number 8W1Z-14A11-C. However, ignore this part number as well, as it was later superseded.

Final Recall, 09S09, Ford's final and still current fix was to change the offending membrane switch altogether, which Ford probably should have done in the first place, with a different design. This is the fix you want: New harness, with NO fuse holders, because it has fusible links instead. This fix also replaces the Texas Instruments designed Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) whose delicate elastomeric membrane inside ruptures and causes the brake fluid to leak... with a newly designed switch.

The new switch was accompanied by a fusible link harness, rather than a fused jumper harness with hidden fuses few would know about. The fusible link burning away is more visually evident of a problem, but thankfully, the new style of membrane switch doesn't have the problems that the old style switch has. Not everyone received the third recall on this problem, especially if they already had the second recall done. The records would show that the recall for this issue was already taken care of, so they might not have been notified of the availability of the superior fix.

The original switch had a fat metal barrel, and was shorter in length. It also had an orange harness connector, that had a more rectangular shaped shell. The new switch has a skinnier metal barrel, and is a bit longer. The connector shell shape is round. These external characteristics have nothing to do with the functional success or failure of the switch, they are just to help you identify the difference between switch generations, to determine if you have the new or the old switch. You want the new one.

The new switch, due to the new connector shell shape, requires a new connector harness jumper, which has invisible fusible links rather than fuses. Fusible links look just like wires, but are gauged to separate and break connection at a calibrated current load. In this manner, no one can fuss with the fuse, making the harness unsafe again. Here are the Ford and Motorcraft part numbers you need for the kit that includes both the SCDS and the FLJH:


Ford Service Part Number: 1LIZ-9F924-AA

Equivalent Motorcraft Part Number: SW-6350



Searching "SW-6350" finds a Standard Motor Products switch and accompanying fusible link harness combined in a bag for as little as $18.57 on Amazon.


However, if you have the original production (faulty) switch installed, and your VIN has not previously had any prior version of the recall performed, then I would ask your Ford dealer about making good on the recall, for which there may not be an expiration date, due to the critical safety issues involved (spontaneous vehicle fire even with the ignition off).

 

Appreciate the heads up (I read your response in several other threads!). I have one on will call for when I pickup my weather stripping tomorrow, going to ask them about making good on the recall, and if no dice, going to go the alternative route. Advance near me has the OEM in the motorcraft bag, same as the dealer for $40, napa same thing except napa bag for $25. Don't want to go back to NAPA for sensors, if I don't have to, given my local ones stance on "zero refund if it was installed" policy. How the HECK am I supposed to know if it doesn't work without installing it? I was at war with them for awhile, but the store's owner ended up making good on it with me and just giving me $125 credit, which was good enough.

 

Well finished up a few last finishing touches today. Truck is still running great, not leaking anything, valley is completely dry for the first time in.....it's life probably. Went ahead and got a Duralast cruise control cutoff sensor from auto-zone, purely because they GENERALLY take stuff back no questions asked, life time warranty. NAPA has screwed me one too many times on sensors, and for the $25 vs $111 from Ford, the gamble was worth it. BPA off BOO off on forscan, were back in cruise control business baby.

Got the rear-door latches in the mail over the weekend and got the bottoms put in. Had to use one of the cables off the new as the passenger side was broken, man its nice having doors that fully latch again. Got my weatherstripping from Ford, and must admit, I'm a little disappointed, but hey, some is better than none I guess. Might be modifying this in the future. They seal up real good except for 1 spot, where the bottom of the door curves off, it leaves a decent gap. Still a lot quieter running down the road, I don't hear all the water swishing anymore, at least not as much.

Originally was planning to re-route the CCV, but decided to just put it back into the intake, I don't have a catch can rigged up right now, and after seeing only maybe, a tablespoon AT most come out of the intercooler while it was off the truck (I hung it at an angle and drained it all out), its definitely not hurting anything, except my feelings when I pull the IC pipes.

Ordered some Spring clips for the front leafs, trying to resolve my front spring shifting clunk, and while I couldn't get the springs 100% squared up, I slapped them on anyways. Didn't really know where to position them so went about 4" back from the front of the springs (kind of like they are on the rear of the front springs). Don't want to jinx it but after a bunch of low speed and stopped turning on some decently wet concrete today, I had ZERO clunk. The verdict is still out though. Might be swapping to different springs, and bringing the front up an inch or two in the future.

Tidied up some wiring and such under the hood today, unfortunately forgot to snap pics, I'll grab some later.

 

Excuse my terrible lighting and photography skills

Very tight area for the ic pipe. The intake barely clears, as well as the hydro to reservoir return line.

KC Blue turbo would look good back in there yeah???

Hydro to res return line I rigged up. Had to use a zip tie around the bottom of the master cylinder, no real tension on it, just enough to give the IC pipe clearance.

GPR relocated. I had to rig new wires for the starter solenoid because the old ends were so corroded they broke clean off.

Need to tidy this area up a bit, thinking about cutting the AIH wires WAY back and tucking it all into one piece of loom




Need to clean this area up, a lot going on here. When I do new BATT cables, im going to get everything tucked in down low under the tray.


Forgot to snap a dang pic of the clearance issues with the Fuel bowl mini drop bracket+FRx+Sensor on hpop res. Got around it my screwing that sensor in an uncomfortable amount, then connecting the sensor plug, THEN threading the FRx housing on,it rubbed the pig tail a little but but it clears now. Crazily enough on the Driver side IC pipe, I was able to get everything to clear with zero rubbing or touching. Big win in my book.

 

Looks good. I like all the blue touches.

I'd throw that wastegate solenoid in the trash along with the lines and plug the hole in take tube and clean valley up even more. Mines been in the trash for about 5 years. Just sets a soft code.

Another thing to clean up battery area. The big wire with 2 fusibls links going to positive. You can run it to the constant hot side on starter solenoid. That's how it supposed to be factory anyway. Will clean it up a touch.