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You’re in Ohio? What general area? I may have asked this before 🤦♂️
Wiring the 42 pin together works for me.
A couple other options might be a smaller diameter bolt that can sneak through the factory nut or a zip tie. But wire tie is likely better than plastic. My only concern is if you might end up with some intermittent issues if the connector starts seeing some vibration.
For the AIH, I removed the wires between the AIH and relay but left the ones going to the relay from battery/PCM. Figured it was the best place to terminate and prevent a short. If I were to remove the AIH relay I would probably move the power supply wire over to the GPR (same source). In your case when relocating relay, I would be inclined to wire the supplies together wherever you tie in to lengthen the supply wire.
You’re in Ohio? What general area? I may have asked this before 🤦♂️
Wiring the 42 pin together works for me.
A couple other options might be a smaller diameter bolt that can sneak through the factory nut or a zip tie. But wire tie is likely better than plastic. My only concern is if you might end up with some intermittent issues if the connector starts seeing some vibration.
For the AIH, I removed the wires between the AIH and relay but left the ones going to the relay from battery/PCM. Figured it was the best place to terminate and prevent a short. If I were to remove the AIH relay I would probably move the power supply wire over to the GPR (same source). In your case when relocating relay, I would be inclined to wire the supplies together wherever you tie in to lengthen the supply wire.
I’m about 45 minutes straight south of Cleveland, kind of the Akron area. Bout an hour and some change from Rosewood 🤑🤑.
Work had other plans today and tomorrow so the only thing I got accomplished was gathering my wire for the relocation. Got the vacuum lines for the hubs removed as well as that solenoid.
Mounting the GPR on the fender kind of kicked my butt. I had planned to use one of the tabs to bolt into from the auto hub solenoid, and a bolt with a washer in one of the other holes. Well dropped that down into that fender channel. Then decided to relocate the other bolt tab (why cannot I not remember the name of these stupid things) also dropped that down into the fender. Self tapper with a washer it is!
If work calls off tomorrow (supposed to be hauling concrete to the crusher but we’re expecting a massive snow storm) I’ll get it all wired up and the harness back on and start reassembling the front end! Still have to pickup some synthetic atf for the new Saginaw pump and Blue top box, and a couple gallons of pre diluted rotella ELC.
(sorry if the grammar and spelling is crap, I can’t type worth a heck on this cell phone)
I ask because I’m always looking for someone close by. A nearby truck buddy would be cool. You’re about 2.5 hours away. Shucks.
That little ground wire could use some love.
Theyre all getting cleaned up. Every dang connection looks like that.
Did alot of drilling down in WV from the clarksburg area all the way across 50, and a bunch in the wheeling/Ohio side of the river. Well all over south western Ohio to be fair.
Alright, got a lot accomplished today. Truck is 98% back together, really just needs bumper, grill, and a few odds and ends. Hopefully I can find some mobil 1 full synthetic ATF, might order some online through napa, as they can get my pre-diluted rotella elc as well, and just knock it out in one stop.
Had quite a few routing and fitment issues, not the saginaw pump's fault, mostly my own, as the replacement hoses I ordered are not exact OEM, but I made them work, atleast I hope. Had to re-run one of the old hoses, with a new o-ring and the plastic washer type oring on the other end (hydro to steering box) as the one I ordered the threads going into the box were kind of jacked up, but atleast it supplied new o-rings for the old hose. For the return line (hydro to res), I used one of the new hoses I purchased and just cut it shorter, and with that am BARELY able to clear the top of the IC pipe. I had to loom up a brake line as well as the power steering return line, and just ran a zip tie through the master cylinder, its not super tight and there's no pressure on either, it just holds it up barely enough to not rub the IC pipe. IC pipe clears the hoses underneath just fine, actually better than the OEM pump and hoses.
FYI for anyone running a coolant filtration system (I purchased riffraffs setup), it will work with the saginaw setup. I'm not happy with how I have it now, but will be swapping in a 45 out of the pump housing which will easily give the hose clearance of the bracket. For now it kind of sits on the edge of the bracket, no big deal, I'll put some protector on it until I get a 45 in there.
On the pass side, where I relocated the GPR to the fender, its super tight, but thats only because I have not gotten rid of the AIH relay wiring, which will be coming in the future. Aside from that, every thing seemed to go back together fairly easily. I want to pick up actual hose clamps for the power steering hoses that just have the butterfly clamps. The plan is to hopefully be able to pick up my coolant and ATF on the way home from work tomorrow, and with any luck get it all bled out and maybe fired up.
As for bleeding the new pump, and steering box, my plan was to just jack the front end off the ground, top off the res, pull the steering gear to cooler hose off the cooler, and turn lock to lock and pump the brakes a few times until I get atf coming out of the hose. Not sure if this will work since the entire system is empty but I'd like to some how get some fluid moving through before hitting the starter. (If that doesnt work, I'll disconnect 42pin and give it a few cranks to actually pump some fluid). Any tips or advice for this process?
EDIT-- Also does anyone know a part number for the lower water pump inlet o-ring? The elbow that comes out of the pump below the T-Stat housing? I need to remember to get a new one of those before I go filling this dang thing up!----Nevermind, got one ordered at the Ford dealership.
I'll take more pics tomorrow of how I got everything routed. Still have a bunch of tidying up to do, as in securing wires and making stuff look more professional, but for now the goal is to get it running again.
When I bled mine my system was complete empty. Changed pump, hydro boost, steering box, all new lines, and new bigger cooler. All I did to bleed it was with front on jack stand just turned wheel back and forth without it running until it stopped taking fluid. Maybe 5 minutes. Then fired it up for couple seconds and let it suck some down and fill it back up. Did that a couple tines and all was good. Then checked it again the next day and topped off again as needed.
My coolant filter hose doesn't rub any sharp edges. Stock a piece of loom on it and I don't ever see it being a issue.
For whatever reason, I think I went over the bracket.......DOH! The crap I do sometimes. Well I'll get that changed around tomorrow night. And yeah, I'm shopping fluids right now. The Valvoline may be cheaper, and I can maybe even snag a gallon from work for free.
How much ATF did it take? I'd think I would be good with a gallon?
Ok my fellow 7.3 Guru's, I come in a time of need. Got everything buttoned back up this morning, fluids topped off, PS pump bled....a little. Slapped batteries back in, a boom nothing. No power in the cab, no power when key switched nothing. What did I screw up and or forget? I've never seen this before. Both batts have been on a tender for awhile, both showing 12.7v, I have power at the hot post on the GPR, power on the alternator wire, both 12.7. Checked fuses once, about to check twice under the dash, so far coming up with all good, but may have missed one? Its like no power is making it to the fuse box under the dash or to the PCM. Check the grounds on the motor, if I recall its the one ground on the back of the pass head, and 2 (1 from each battery) on the bottom of the front of the block. All are clean and all are tight. Going to do some searching here, but if you have any ideas, feel free to drop em'. Thanks
Re-checked ALL fuses, and all grounds, everything is good. What the heck could be the issue here. I have zero power running to ANY fuse box. Both under the dash and the main one under the hood (check for voltage at the feed running into the box under the hood).
Time to search for the fuseable links. Anyone know where they are on this thing?
Problem, I think, SOLVED. Now to just to find how to replace this. Link on starter relay, was broken off the tab connecting to the two grey wires, that I assume carry power to GPR and ALT? Just to "test" I jumped the connection briefly with a wire, and boom headlights came on. Where can I find one of these for a replacement? Something an autoparts store has? Or do I need to look to Ford?
Yep that's it. That one the broke is the feed from the battery to the 2 grey looking wires on the starter solenoid. Those are the fusible links which run to a power wire and feeds the cab. That fancy looking plastic end isn't really needed. It just keeps the 2 wires in it separated. You can cut the cable behind and and just put on a regular cable end and hook it back up.
Yep that's it. That one the broke is the feed from the battery to the 2 grey looking wires on the starter solenoid. Those are the fusible links which run to a power wire and feeds the cab. That fancy looking plastic end isn't really needed. It just keeps the 2 wires in it separated. You can cut the cable behind and and just put on a regular cable end and hook it back up.
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