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Well it is officially that time. Never thought I'd be doing this yet again, but there is just something about keeping the 7.3 alive. Over the weekend I convinced the wife that we needed a jeep...not sure how that happened, but it did, so now I have a spare vehicle and can take my time doing this project (and taking lots of pics).
Last week my KC bellowed up-pipes, Big Iron Oil pan, and other misc goodies came from riffraff. I somehow managed to get this entire week off, so what better time than to get it out and get it on a stand. I'll take some more pics tomorrow of the parts, and progess. Got the header panel and some misc stuff out of the way in about an hour tonight just tinkering around in the garage. Im shy a few clean buckets and all my used oil containers are full, so ill get that squared away first thing tomorrow, and hopefully have it out tomorrow night, or ready to come out friday. Pulling the entire front clip off, because now that I have the time, this may turn into alot more than just an engine re-sealy-do. Planning on new oil pan, new rear main, new up-pipes, oil cooler re-seal, injector o-rings and probably glowplugs, as well as replacing any seals or gaskets I havent done yet (banjo bolts, oil galley plugs etc.). As long as nothing crazy happens during this, Im doing the saginaw powersteering pump conversion, all new p/s - booster - gear box hoses, and a new steering box (yet to be determined if im going newer generation ford box, or blue top). Good old rust. There should be another piece in there where the bottom corner of the header bolts in. both sides were the same. Good old rust. There should be another piece in there where the bottom corner of the header bolts in. Fog lights that had zero wiring running to them, probably just removing them entirely. Someone didnt like to use OEM replacements. These will definitely be getting swapped as all of the shiny-ness on the inside is peeling off.
Oil pan seems to be really good quality, im not so sure what how much of an impact reinforcing the lip is going to have, but overall for the cost of an OEM pan, or even a $100 spectra and the 80$ weld in flange, the $240 price tag didnt seem too bad.
Almost forgot the most important thing. PAINT For color, Im thinking blue on the block, and a metallicish silver/ gun metal grey for VC's and accessories. I already have money in RiffRaffs blue anodized stuff, so I have to keep rolling with that somehow.
It is leaking on the back corners, coupled with rust on the front half, and a very half-assed dipstick flange repair. It also has a leak, according to the tracer dye, on the right bottom "corner" of the rear-main (could see where the uv dye started and ran). I chose the "Big Iron" pan simply because of cost and ease. Weld in flange is practically a must if your doing this job, and this is comparably priced to a spectra pan + weld in flange, and even cheaper than OEM + weld in flange. Will very likely end up having it rust proofed before I put it on just for future proofing. The pan will outlast the truck at this rate, but this is my starter/donor motor for when I find a rust free 4 door truck.
I always wondered what the benefit of heavy springs would be in one of these engines, I get it if it's a race inspired engine spinning some rpm, but my stockers in my 94.5 did well, never noticed any valve float at 40 psi of boost and 3000 rpm and that was a pretty tired engine. I do plan to one day build an engine for my 02 with an earlier block with forged rods, do a little head work and a slightly bigger cam and such just to make power down lower for easier towing.
making stock 6.7 power stroke numbers on an engine I can work on without pulling the cab is a huge benefit. would help towing 15k pounds with the old girl also.
sorry didn't mean to hijack your thread, keep the pictures and progress coming, i like things like this.
So got quite a bit done today. I wasnt able to invest as much time as i'd hoped because I had to make a harbor freight run, and take all my used oil and fluids into work and get rid of them so I had space. Took me longer than i'd like to admit to assemble the stupid engine stand but it gave me time to drain the coolant. Decided to go with the 200$ 2000lb stand instead of the $300 1500lb stand with the crank rotation. For as much as ill use this one, I couldnt justify the extra 100 bucks. Entire top of the motor is done, turbo out, power steering pump out, all thats left is the wires on the bottom, starter, TC bolts and bell housing/motor mounts and last but not least, the dreaded frickin fuel lines.
I think im going to have to evacuate the AC system. Not that I want to or need to, but im almost positive the evaporator is leaking something fierce. When im under the truck tomorrow, ill snap some pics. I know NOTHING about AC systems, so dont know if this is a job I can tackle or if I need to take it somewhere. Ill research into this further.
Has anyone done the GPR-relocation mod? Since I have the AIH deleted, Id like to get rid of that relay and relocate the GP relay over to the fender, just not sure if the juice is worth the squeeze on that one. Would really help clean up on top of the motor there.
The last two pictures I have a question about. Theres a hot power wire running from the pass side positive cable/terminal, that goes up to the GP/AIH relay, are all the superduties like this or is this something someone "fixed"? Also, I forgot to take some pics, ill do my best to remember in the morning, but the inside of these coolant lines (top and bottom) was very interesting, almost like a sediment, not 100% sure what it is, but a coolant filtration system is in my future for sure. Enjoy the pics, hope to have it out of the beast tomorrow. Intercooler looks pretty good. Radiator is brand spankin new. Small chip in the fan blade. Going to need alot of these. The old ones like to just "snap" Cant find my old fuel line tool, hope I can make these work. If not, well they were like $10. So this was probably the most nerve wracking part. As most of you have seen on previous threads, the 42pin connector bolt was "stripped", as in the piece the nut is held into by was broken, thus allowing the bolt to just spin freely without backing out. I'm basically a surgeon now. Little protector I made in case I had any slips. Turns out cutting the head off the bolt would be the easiest part. I had to kind of work around where the plastic meet the bolt with a very fine tipped screw driver, and got the little o-ring popped out, after that I had to use an uncomfortable amount of force, but BOOM SUCCESSSSSSSSSSSS. It was a very very tight squeeze to get the dremel/cut off in there, and at the right angle, but it CAN BE DONE! This power steering pump is DEFINITELY NOT going back in, looks like it was leaking from every orifice. NASTY Turbine wheel has some wear, but ZERO play. I doubt this is the original turbo, ill try and snap some pics of the tags on it. That hose fought me like its life depended on it. Potentially a manifold leak? Couldnt really tell from the angle, going to investigate this further for sure. Power lead off pass positive lead. Runs up to gpr/aih relay, is this normal? Where progress ended for the day. Just gotta spend the morning on the creeper, and shell be ready to exit The new ride, best pic I have on the phone, sorry. 2007 Wrangler X.
you'll be surprised how well made the factory turbo is, have taken apart some with over 400k miles and they had no play, only reason for the rebuilds was to either "I'm already there" or to upgrade the thrust bearing to a 360° one and add billet wheels or just replace the factory surge prone ones.
you'll be surprised how well made the factory turbo is, have taken apart some with over 400k miles and they had no play, only reason for the rebuilds was to either "I'm already there" or to upgrade the thrust bearing to a 360° one and add billet wheels or just replace the factory surge prone ones.
Looking good looking forward to more pics
Im leaning towards a balanced assembly and wheel from KC. We’ll see how far the “budget” goes when I get to that point. And yeah as posted above, if I don’t have an old one laying around, I’ll definitely be ordering a new fan, don’t want to destroy a brand new radiator.
That cable that runs to the aih and gpr relay is factory. The 2 smaller Grey wires at the battery are fusible links. After the gpr relay it should keep going and is the big cable that runs to the alternator. On 99-01 it goes to the starter relay and grabs power there instead of battery but 02 03 don't have starter relay on fender so it probably runs straight to battery.
I move the gpr relay the the passenger fender on mine. Cleaned valley up a lot and got more room for activities in there.
Meant to post my update last night, but after a slice of pizza and a beer, I fell asleep in the chair real quick. Got the motor out, despite my best efforts in screwing everything up. Was relatively easy, only the things that commonly give me problems gave me problems. I dont remember the top 2 bellhousing bolts being such a pain, but they were, and I didnt have the time nor energy to cut the bolts on the up-pipes in the truck so I fought it and eventually got em out (short arms, big gut problems). I think the next time I do this, im going to plan a little better and just make time to remove the up-pipes, its definitely not required, especially if you're removing the front clip, but seems like I can NEVER get my chain just perfect, and always end up tearing something up on the top of the fire-wall/header. Fuel lines werent super bad, sprayed some PB blaster in there and let them soak. First one popped right off, second one took some cuss words, and a couple intermissions.
I did end up evacuating the AC system, as I think ill be buying a new condenser mine is pretty beat up from rocks, and looks like its almost compromised in some spots. Along with fixing the leaking part that I dont know the name of (the compressor lines run into it, almost like a pressure tank?. Ill take a pic of it and throw it up later.
Had to go buy some new ratchet wrenches (they dont like cheater bars, and they had been broken prior to this), was like sweet this will make the motor mounts super quick. Well stupid me, first bolt on the front, I ran too far down, ratchet wrench stuck for life (until I got the rest of the bolts out).
Going to run to the store this morning and get some bolts that match the bellhousing and get this baby on the stand and ready for some serious cleaning.
Im hoping I can just throw this baby in neutral and push it to the back of the garage, then ill have room to get the jeep inside as well!
I forgot how much a mess this makes.
THERES ALWAYS ONE! Using a ratchet strap on the front, will get you the perfect angle for the up pipe collector to clear everything, and get the oil pan over the top cross member. Temporary resting place for the night. I always do this. For whatever reason this is the one mistake I never learn from. I always forget about the ratchet strap.
That cable that runs to the aih and gpr relay is factory. The 2 smaller Grey wires at the battery are fusible links. After the gpr relay it should keep going and is the big cable that runs to the alternator. On 99-01 it goes to the starter relay and grabs power there instead of battery but 02 03 don't have starter relay on fender so it probably runs straight to battery.
I move the gpr relay the the passenger fender on mine. Cleaned valley up a lot and got more room for activities in there.
Yeah im DEFINITELY relocating it. Would make things so much easier if I just need to pop a fuel line off etc. That stupid bracket is in the WORST SPOT. Thanks for the pic.
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