Well, today I "confirmed" my suspicions. It definitely looks like the rear-main was indeed leaking. Somehow I ended up with the 1 in a million. Didn't get to do a whole lot, kind of a busy weekend with the holidays winding down, and one last shin-dig tomorrow night, I for one cannot wait to get back to the normal routine, as much as I enjoy spending time with the family and friends, it can be taxing!

I would've paid good money for someone to film me during the rodeo that was getting this engine off the hoist and on to the stand. I didn't plan very well, and was afraid to sit the entire weight of the motor on my make shift tire supports. Ended up using a floor jack and some lumber to get the stand all mounted and bolted up, then used a combination of the stand resting on the legs of the hoist and my floor jack to get the weight off the actual lift, so I could slide the bar out one more notch and be able to clear everything, as it should've been from the get go. I love re-learning hard lessons.

Flex plate looked great, no cracks, teeth all in decent shape, I didn't snap any pics of it today, but ill be sure and get some. Up-pipe removal.....well lets just say, im glad I didn't have to do that in the truck. Had to cut every bolt, and then beat sockets onto the manifold side, and with some pb blaster a punch and 3lb hammer was eventually able to get them worked out. Somehow, miraculously no obvious signs of leaks on them, unless that discoloration is from them leaking for so long it just looks natural.

So far on the added parts list, I have a fan, ccv reroute, and an ac condenser. Really considering just doing new manifolds. These don't look suuuuuuper bad, just not sure I can justify the $400ish dollars to fix an issue that knock on wood, doesn't exist yet. Also going to be re-searching front springs, man mine have to be very worn out, I bet the truck came up a solid 4 or more inches. I don't ever remember it being that drastic of a change when pulling my 2000's motor.

Tomorrow morning the plan is to get all the wiring off, bag up and cover up sensors and plug all the holes and start the de-greasing and scraping procedure.






Was really wondering where that v band clamp nut went a few months ago when I had the turbo out!






Stand seems to support it really well, actually better than my old 2,000lb summit stand.

In her vacation spot for awhile.

 

Really digging that oil pan. Beefy reinforced lip, welded oil bung, great price. Schwing!

Keep up the good work!

 

I don’t know how I’ll ever get this thing clean to my liking, but I’m going to give it hell. Started soaking it this morning in degreaser after I got the harness off and all the open holes/sensors bagged. Gave it a quick rinse this afternoon before company starts arriving, going to soak it again all night in degreaser and hit it with the hot water and pressure washer in the morning. Just going to keep chipping away at it. What do you guys use to plug the turbo oil holes? Right now I have an ear plug in one and a bag/rag kind of cork in the bigger one, just being cautious to avoid that area for now.

Going to re-wrap this harness and replace pig tails as needed.

Degreaaaaaase


Her very first bath.

sorry if this is all jacked up, trying to do this from my phone!

 

Once ya got the engine buttoned up will you post up here or start an "official putting it in thread"?

 

Maybe both 🤣🤣

 

Got the motor about 90% clean. Pressure washed with hot water and degreased the crap out of it. Got it drying off now, really impressed with how it came out.

Do any of you have any experience with duplicolor metalcast anodized paint? Was thinking of buying some and doing VC's and hpop res and some other misc accessories. I dont know if ill ever get the valley clean enough to hold paint, but if I do, im just going to use a light grey to make spotting leaks easier. Not going to get carried away with painting as that rabbit hole can become very time consuming. Heres a link to the product https://www.summitracing.com/parts/shw-mc201 Uses a base coat primer, then the anodized color, then id add a couple of coats of clear to protect it. From what ive seen on youtube it seems to be a pretty slick and easy process.

Heres a couple of snaps from this morning.

Used my leaf blower to get the majority of the water off, then unbagged all the sensors and open spots and have a fan drying everything completely out. Hope everything still works!



There was over an inch of crud in each of the low spots of the valley.

 

Decided to tackle rear main real quick before I get too involved with stuff on the stand. Well this had clearly been done before, and not properly. Instead of the International RTV they used a black seal, ill put up pics later, now I have to try and figure out how to get this old wear ring off. Does anyone have any ideas besides buying the tool to pull it?

 

Disregard got it with the trusty old sharp chisel

 

The riff raff billet hpop reservoir and cover looks sick on them. But there so much $$$ for the reservoir.

 

Yeah, im going to give this paint a shot, worst case is looks like crap till I fix it, best case it looks awesome.

Got the frickin rear main done, and man, someone really did a number back there. Looks like when they changed it last time, they just tried pounding a phillips head screw driver behind it to remove the old one, didnt use any RTV, just a black flat seal. Had to do a little sanding and surface prep to try and get the big gouge out, I think it came out ok. Im not very confident in my re-assembly, mostly because I was thrown off by this one having been done before and got a little flustered. But I loaded her up with the International RTV and sent it. Tightened everything down and got it back on the stand.

Pulling the oil cooler and flipping it over in the morning to pop the pan pan off. Is it ok to do this with the valve covers and hpop res off? Want to start prepping stuff for paint since im going to have time to kill while this thing is upside down. Id assume it wouldnt hurt anything.

You can see the big gouge below the left alignment dowel. No idea how someone accomplished that, let alone left it like that and re-assembled.


The flat seal came in two when pulling the old seal off




The wear ring was almost worn completely through in that spot.



You can also see where the outer lip of the seal was kind of torn. Not 100% sure that isnt from me.

New one installed, sorry forgot to get a pic, was eager to get it back on the stand.

So clean you can eat off that.

 

Great progress! Thanks for the pics.

Sorry if I missed it but you have bellowed up pipes on the menu right?

 

Yes sir, KC's bellowed up pipes ready and waiting. Would love to do manifolds, but for $400 dollars and no obvious signs of leaking, and without machining the surfaces its not going to be worth it on this go around.

 

Got the oil cooler off and pan pulled off. Removing that old pan is really a battle, had to just keep going at it with a razor blade, and eventually working a small putty knife in there. Looked down all the cylinders and cross hatching all looked solid, didnt see anything of any concern. Trying to come up with a plan for cleaning the mating surfaces without anything getting down into the internals. Thinking holding a shop vac while I scrape a little at a time. Going to pickup paint from summit racing now, well see how this anodized looking paint works

 

Got the surface prepped for the pan to go on in the morning. What a tedious PITA. Does anyone have any opinions on the ford rtv vs international? Im leaning ford RTV simply because I can apply it with a caulk gun making it alot easier and cleaner. Will give everything one more final wipe down, blast out the new pan with air and slap that baby on first thing.

Went and picked up my paint and supplies from summit racing today (man its handy living up the road from them!) and decided to do a test run of this "blue anodized" on the water pump elbow. Wire wheeled it the best I could and wiped down with alcohol for my prep. Applied 2 coats of the silver base (3 is recommended but, stuffs not cheap these days) and it looked solid. Did 4 light coats of the blue anodized with 10minutes in between each, followed up with 2.5 coats of glear gloss enamel. Other than 1 spot I got a little heavy handed (this stuff is super thin and light) I think it turned out pretty good. Will probably do an accessory bracket, valve covers, dog house, and HPOP res (bought a can of red and a can of "smoke" to throw in there as well somewhere).

Tore the oil cooler apart and made a massssssive mess of it. So Thats where I ended today. Does anyone know if I can fully submerge the oil cooler and both end in some hot soapy water and or degreaser to clean everything out? Ive read and seen conflicting information on this subject. I dont see what it would hurt, as the only seals are the 4 o rings and 2 gaskets, but this thing was full of crud and covered in gunk on the outside, would really like to get it cleaned up and maybe paint it too!

 

Nice to see you making progress

Also, thought you’d be interested to know I installed my rear main seal tonight using the flex plate spacer and it worked great! I used 4 bolts in a rectangle pattern and it snugged right up.