Howdy Ya'll!
I thought I'd start a new thread in this new hardly ever seen event, lol. I poked around in some threads but I've run in to a wall...
I fixed a wheel bearing and while out on my test drive the truck just shut off...like just turning the key...no sputter or surge.
1. with WTS light there's No tach bounce when cranking and no smoke so I replaced the CPS still no start and no smoke. The gray CPS was still relatively new and never had any shut offs with it.
All fuses are good
EBPV code is the only code in it HOWEVER I disconnected the batteries to charge them before I scanned (I dunno if it erases some codes or not).
I'm afraid it is going to be something bigger than just wriggling some wires.
What would be your next move if you were troubleshooting?
All inputs are welcomed...
As King of Copedawgland I'm afraid my ALL my friend who live in the land (my dog) will think I'm just being mean by not taking him for rides...
Thanks!

 

Goodmorning Ian. This is probably a long shot but here goes. My brothers 2000 f250 died going down the road so I replaced the CPS, which did no good. Fiddled with it for a while and got it running, for about 3 miles, when it quit again. Towed it to the dealer, since I didn't have time to monkey with it. Turned out it was a bad IPR. The magnet would over heat, causing it to shut down.

 

If the IPR tests fine I would look over the wiring to the CPS really well. Could be a bad spot in the wires

 

You need to hook up some device and look at data. Something surely will stick out. You can check fuel pressure but since it was abrupt thats doubtful. Check icp for oil and ipr for tin nut and pigtail wiring condition. Maybe vc connector condition for burnt pins shutting Idm down.
something will surely show its ugly head as the fault...

 

I'm not familiar with the wiring harness on the OBS...If it's anything like a superduty, could it be chaffed wires in the bundle over DS valve cover.

as mentioned, you'll have to look to see if you are building oil pressure still. could be a failed HPOP

 

OK, Thanks! I have a lot to check...Thank you for sending me in the right direction! I'm going to drum up the courage to go out in the cold rain and snow and get going when the sun comes up.
I hope I can report some good news soon! Thank you!

 

I ordered a new ICP and IPR...I did a mod way back when and put it back after I was done playing...If I find the pics in my albums and figure out how to attach I will... Parts should be here today and I'll work it in my schedule...weather permitting...Thanks Ya'll!

 

I had this happen once or five times. One time the nut had back off thr ipr and let the merbob slide off. That was an easy fix once inlooked at it.

Hopefully your parts fix the issues for you. Having a truck that doesn't run is super lame. They always seem to break when the weather's being unhelpful too.

 

I agreee...A truck that won't run lame...Thanks for the tip and where to look...I have parts in hand but need to find the time when the Sun is up...Saturday at the latest!

 

Tiiiiiin NUT ......BUSTED! Broke truck I gotta broke truck la la...isn't that a song?

It's been a long day. I replaced the IPR and ICP...crank with no tach bounce...replace CPS again...still no tach bounce. I doubled checked all fuses with multimeter...all good. I'm HANGRY and kinda bummed and lost. I dunno what's next...any thoughts?
Thanks!

 

I recently went through something similar, there’s three clamps that hold the wiring for the CPS one above the water pump and two on the timing cover above the CPS, take those clamps off and pull the harness up to top of the engine and examine it closely.
This was part of the problem with mine, I couldn’t see it under the truck, there’s not enough slack to pull the wire down to look at it.

 

After some sleep and halfway through work I'm trying to get my game face on to deal with this truck....Thanks for the insight...I know exactly what you mean. I was thinking it was in that line or circuit...but wagged at the ipr and icp. I will get to it and exam with a magnifying glass...this makes sense, Thanks!

 

I'm getting pretty discouraged now...I inspected the CPS harness/clip pretty closely and it looked good. I did a continuity check from pin to pin to pin and those 2 wires aren't shorted to each other...I threw the charger back on the batteries and buttoned it up for the storms/rain.
Recap:
It shut off while driving like turning the key off while driving. Cranks with no tach bounce or smoke. Change CPS, IPR and ICP. All Fuses are good and WTS light works.
I am lead to believe if the WTS light works the PCM is good AND if the IDM fuse is not burnt/broke the IDM is good. is that the rule of thumb for those two costly parts?
Any more thoughts or any WAGs?
Thanks!

 

found this under the airfilter box of a 97 that died and wouldn't restart.
on this one the chafed wires were were touching and sending 12 volts to the 5 volt reference system.

 

OOOOooooh! Wow! Good find and YUCK!
I had a 95 Taurus with a large bundle of wires like that under the fender well just before/after the firewall...it had ignition problems at the time...but that is a good place to look...look in the places that are not seen normally...I will check for sure. I wish I had a better OBDII reader...or even know how really read and understand the codes more than just googling the Pcode, like understand the running readings. I will look in the 'not normally inspected areas next time I'm out there (when it stops raining).
That really does look like a mess...
Thanks!