Shut off-won't start. Big troubles in litte Copedawgland
#46
12-23-2023, 12:10 PM
#47
12-23-2023, 12:19 PM
Lead Driver
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#48
12-23-2023, 12:36 PM
it’s cranking pretty good. I have a charger/tender on it plus the heater plugged in. It’s acting like a cps but I tried 2 with no response, could I have 2 bad cps? I hope so but I doubt it. I just got a 213(?) iirc. Turbocharger something or other. I’m cleaned up now…I’m kinda disgusted actually…gonna pour a big tall glass of Christmas cheer now
#49
12-30-2023, 06:14 AM
IDM
What I get for not reading close enough in the thread.
To confirm what you said. You put in a new IPR harness from the fuel bowl plug to the IPR?
I mean, if you replaced the whole harness from the fuel bowl connector in, I doubt that's your issue then.
More of a spit balling thing.
These trucks can really crush your ***** when they wanna no start.
If you dont have an aeroforce or a scan tool, you can not check your IDM either.
Because a buzz test will test your IDM. I saw that was up above also.
But, oil or power are generally the 2 culprits.
If you unplug the ICP sensor, it will try and push harder oil, but throws the code like you saw.
You can always just unplug the map sensor to just make sure it's not an issue, because it can run that on default too.
Oil temp/pressure sensors are not necessary for operation.
So, CPS, IPR and IDM are your 3 biggest culprits.
IPR you can bypass, IDM you can only test with a spare or buzz test.
And IPR is its own animal, but if you replaced that and the wiring, that kind of rules it out, not 100% but sorta.
The HPOP Res drain down. The truck will start and run with the drain down issue IIRC, because once its started the Lpop can keep up with that.
The only other issues I can think off of the top of my head are UVCH bad wiring stuff. Valve cover gaskets or harnesses are just toast. (I got some extra's if that is the case, i dont need them, i send them to you)
then. Fuel pressure is important of course. I had to do my fuel pump here just 3 or 4 months ago. was not ready for that. What a PITA. Second time doing it.
To confirm what you said. You put in a new IPR harness from the fuel bowl plug to the IPR?
I mean, if you replaced the whole harness from the fuel bowl connector in, I doubt that's your issue then.
More of a spit balling thing.
These trucks can really crush your ***** when they wanna no start.
If you dont have an aeroforce or a scan tool, you can not check your IDM either.
Because a buzz test will test your IDM. I saw that was up above also.
But, oil or power are generally the 2 culprits.
If you unplug the ICP sensor, it will try and push harder oil, but throws the code like you saw.
You can always just unplug the map sensor to just make sure it's not an issue, because it can run that on default too.
Oil temp/pressure sensors are not necessary for operation.
So, CPS, IPR and IDM are your 3 biggest culprits.
IPR you can bypass, IDM you can only test with a spare or buzz test.
And IPR is its own animal, but if you replaced that and the wiring, that kind of rules it out, not 100% but sorta.
The HPOP Res drain down. The truck will start and run with the drain down issue IIRC, because once its started the Lpop can keep up with that.
The only other issues I can think off of the top of my head are UVCH bad wiring stuff. Valve cover gaskets or harnesses are just toast. (I got some extra's if that is the case, i dont need them, i send them to you)
then. Fuel pressure is important of course. I had to do my fuel pump here just 3 or 4 months ago. was not ready for that. What a PITA. Second time doing it.
#50
12-30-2023, 08:02 AM
Lead Driver
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#51
12-30-2023, 09:05 AM
Thanks HeliCurer!
I found a junkyard I can get on Tuesday morning for $200. I checked the wire schematic/diagram above...in the middle of page 2 I found a ground that is tied in to all the codes so I FIXED or clean it up and made it serviceable (the ground between the left driver side headlight and radiator) with no luck. The grounding point was serviceable before I FXED it, I believe.
Does the IDM fuse protect the IDM OR does it protect the rest of the system from a malfunctioning IDM?...Is the IDM fuse normally popped/broken when the IDM fails?
I REALLY REALLY appreciate EVERYONE's HELP....Ya'll are the BEST!
I found a junkyard I can get on Tuesday morning for $200. I checked the wire schematic/diagram above...in the middle of page 2 I found a ground that is tied in to all the codes so I FIXED or clean it up and made it serviceable (the ground between the left driver side headlight and radiator) with no luck. The grounding point was serviceable before I FXED it, I believe.
Does the IDM fuse protect the IDM OR does it protect the rest of the system from a malfunctioning IDM?...Is the IDM fuse normally popped/broken when the IDM fails?
I REALLY REALLY appreciate EVERYONE's HELP....Ya'll are the BEST!
#52
12-30-2023, 09:25 AM
Lead Driver
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#53
12-30-2023, 09:53 AM
I'm glad you mentioned the diode...I get continuity from both ways from each terminal...the diode in the fuse box under the hood. I thought it would only get continuity one way like a check valve...if that diode is bad will it kill the vehicle like that? is the diode my problem?
#54
12-30-2023, 09:58 AM
Lead Driver
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#55
01-03-2024, 09:54 AM
I was able to swap test another IDM! and still crank no start Grrrrr!
I wriggled every harness and pinched and manipulated every wire connector and connection I could see...Then cranked and the tach jumped a little and lay back dead. I think my problem is in the wiring have a P0237 Turboboost sensor circuit A, P1316 ICP, P1280 Injector Circ/ IDM codes detected and the P0475 Ex Press control valve.
Is the '42 pin connector' the square connector under the brake fluid reservoir?
I wriggled every harness and pinched and manipulated every wire connector and connection I could see...Then cranked and the tach jumped a little and lay back dead. I think my problem is in the wiring have a P0237 Turboboost sensor circuit A, P1316 ICP, P1280 Injector Circ/ IDM codes detected and the P0475 Ex Press control valve.
Is the '42 pin connector' the square connector under the brake fluid reservoir?
#56
01-03-2024, 10:17 AM
Sorry to hear about your troubles, also, ex wives tend to be very good at that. I read through and didn’t see anyone mention the under hood fuses. Sounds like you’ve been poking around in there but some of those fuses can ground out, and otherwise test good and look fine. My rig had similar behavior and I remember jiggling and fussing with a red fuse under the hood and magically, it roared to life. Still goin over a year later. Best of luck and god bless
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#57
01-03-2024, 02:28 PM
Logistics Pro
My son's 99 died going down the highway. Checking the under hood fuses, showed all good. After 3 days of checking things he found one of the fuses under the hood was not making contact with the "saddle" the fuse spade sets in. The hot side was making contact, but the "saddle" on the cold side was spread open. Pinched the contacts together and all is still good.
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#58
01-04-2024, 10:54 AM
My son's 99 died going down the highway. Checking the under hood fuses, showed all good. After 3 days of checking things he found one of the fuses under the hood was not making contact with the "saddle" the fuse spade sets in. The hot side was making contact, but the "saddle" on the cold side was spread open. Pinched the contacts together and all is still good.
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#59
01-07-2024, 04:10 AM
I think I'm going to replace or rebuild the connector/harness from the CPS to the top of the HPOP. It there a replacement splice or can I rebuild it?...and...Is the fan shroud the only thing I need to take off to do this?... I'm glad it's nice a cold out so it makes the simple things difficult...for character building