I saw the chart in a pinned thread up top (it's a very cool chart, btw)...The chart left me at Change the CPS....
Going back to your other comment...of checking the IPR wiring... Should/I think I will take off the IPR harness (that I changed with the new IPR) and check for cotinuity from/between the pins and check for grounds on the pins...?
The CNSFC (Crank No Start Flow Chart, lol) PSD Crank No Start Troubleshooting Flowchart.pdf - Google Drive

 

What I get for not reading close enough in the thread.

To confirm what you said. You put in a new IPR harness from the fuel bowl plug to the IPR?

I mean, if you replaced the whole harness from the fuel bowl connector in, I doubt that's your issue then.
More of a spit balling thing.

These trucks can really crush your ***** when they wanna no start.

If you dont have an aeroforce or a scan tool, you can not check your IDM either.
Because a buzz test will test your IDM. I saw that was up above also.

But, oil or power are generally the 2 culprits.

If you unplug the ICP sensor, it will try and push harder oil, but throws the code like you saw.
You can always just unplug the map sensor to just make sure it's not an issue, because it can run that on default too.

Oil temp/pressure sensors are not necessary for operation.

So, CPS, IPR and IDM are your 3 biggest culprits.

IPR you can bypass, IDM you can only test with a spare or buzz test.

And IPR is its own animal, but if you replaced that and the wiring, that kind of rules it out, not 100% but sorta.

The HPOP Res drain down. The truck will start and run with the drain down issue IIRC, because once its started the Lpop can keep up with that.

The only other issues I can think off of the top of my head are UVCH bad wiring stuff. Valve cover gaskets or harnesses are just toast. (I got some extra's if that is the case, i dont need them, i send them to you)

then. Fuel pressure is important of course. I had to do my fuel pump here just 3 or 4 months ago. was not ready for that. What a PITA. Second time doing it.

 

Did you ever get the tach to register any rpms when cranking? Testing everything else is a moot point until that happens I think.

I went through testing everything like this and got super frustrated, had to go back and focus on the cps and once it worked the truck ran like a champ again.

Also, make sire the batteries are charged up and starter has enough oomph to crank the engine. The weather really strains those during winter

 

I found an IDM in my garage BUTT I don't know if it's good or not...I got 3 from some Wambulances in a Junk yard ..one had water in it and one I modded and the other?...I dunno...it was 3 lifetimes ago and like they say..."Memory is the 2nd thing to go". I'm gonna swap and see what happens but I don't have that warm fuzzy feeling but I can listen for water in the one I pull.
When I replaced the IPR , I replaced the connector and a few inches of wire to splice it back in but I never tested the actual wires further back...I can pull the plug ad test for ground or if they are crossed with a multimeter...
I changed my fuel pump over the summer too for the 3rd time...the Cali model is a PITA, I agree! If I have to replace a 4th time I will use wing nuts to put it back together to make it easier for the 5th, lol. I don't think it's fuel because...(sin on Saturday ask for forgiveness on Sunday) I shot a little Start Fluid in it to listen for life...there was no life heard.
If it's a HVUC wouldn't it have slowly died or try to start and or sputter?

OFF TOPIC: Did you get a 20 year watch or anything last October?...just asking!...an OG for sure!
Thanks for all your help!...Thank EVERYONE for all your help!

 

I never got the tach to budge...I agree the tach needs to bounce to advanced further...I think a control of some sort is keeping the CPS to register...I think the CPS works but the signal is interrupted on it's way to the gage (gauge?) gage.

 

The Tach moving is a "good" sign, but I have read people saying that it's not a "for sure its working" sign.

So, while you might have a bad CPS, or bad wiring to the CPS. You might not, and its just not registering on the tach either.

 

if it was a valve cover harness deal, it could have went belly up soon as you turned the key when it decided not to start. They are.... Weird. Thats why I udpated to the super duty UVCH.

If you only changed the pigtail on the IPR, I would check the whole harness then.

 

The IDM I found is missing a resistor...a botched upgrade I'd imagine...I still took the IDM out to listen for water while shaking...I heard nothing but that doesn't mean much...I returned back to fender well...
I tested the IPR Harness and got the following: Ground is Ground to battery terminal
With Key OFF...no continuity between the pins A pin had 880 OHMS to ground and the other open.
With key ON...13 volts between the 2 pins and B pin open to ground both closed (beeeeeeeep) to Positive terminal
Do I have a harness issue?...where do those 2 wires sneak off to?..
Thanks!

 

I got one of the upgrade resistors around here somewhere still.

 

I miss Radio Shack...they had cool stuff like that on hand. I don't know if a new resistor would even make the IDM good.
I guess I'm going to chase the CPS and IPR circuits.
I wonder if I could bring my IDM somewhere to get tested?...I dunno what the 'buzz test' is.
New CPS (tried 2), new ICP (for chits and giggles) and new IPR...P1316 code.
There is no other easier way...I just need to check the connectors and harnesses I guess.

 

Swamps used to fix/repair IDM's.

Probably the best thing they did for the 7.3 market. Cause it sure wasn't their injectors or hpops.

I digress.

Buzz test can usually be initiated from a scan tool, but it also depends on the scan tool. So if you're using a basic code reader, it probably doesn't give you that option.

But a buzz test essentially tests the solenoids on the injectors, which... are fired from the IDM.


I think checking out those circuits though are going to be a good place to start with the weird issues you're having. Those 2 items are 100% essential on our trucks. Pretty much everything else wired into the motor apart from the injectors is unnecessary.

 

Hopefully tomorrow (Saturday) I can commit a few hours in junction with weather and fix this eye sore...it'd be nice to face it the other way so the moss will grow on the other side...Thanks!

 

I believe they sold that but i can't think of who does it now. i've seen it posted on various forums recently. It's something like diesel tech of tennessee or something similar

I have a swamps HVHF IDM back when it was reasonably priced.

 

Quick question…. The diode under the hood in fuse box, I don’t get continuity in either direction? Aren’t I spoke to get continuity in one direction only?

 

I have a 1280 icp code now and the 1316 never came back….
it should start even if the icp is disconnected right? Grrrr