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Hey all, I’m new here, but have been reading and researching for some time now. I have a 66 F100 that I’ve owned for over 8 years now. “Frankie” (because he’s a Frankenstein of parts) is his name. I’ve never had the time, the money, or the space all at the same time to start a project. The stars have aligned and I’m ready to start.
a little background on my plan. I have a CV IFS and will make that change. I have a 5.0 HO from a 91 Mustang (factory EFI with a custom harness I’ve converted via my YouTube channel). For gears I’ll be using a M5od and the original 9”. I have zero for an interior, so that will be addressed. The wiring has been butchered by PO and rodents. That will be completely replaced. I will be installing a fuel tank from the 70 mustang converted to an in tank fuel pump. I will keep the original paint and the “Patina”. Here is Frankie with son. He’s excited to row gears.
This project is a budget build and I have to plan the time around our family. So I have to be really organized so I don’t waste time and/or money. I started by room I h to front sheet metal. After fighting the rusty nuts and bolts I just removed the whole front end as one piece. Future Anthony will have to figure taking it apart later. This project HAS to be movable. My Mechanic shop is smallish by most standards,(17x24) but is really equipped and has a lift.
I bagged and tagged parts and fasteners as I removed them. I added any important information that I thought I’d need later. I soaked the fasteners in penetrant lube yet still broke some fasteners. I will probably have to cut some stuff apart when I go back and take the front end apart.
Once the front sheet metal was removed I started removing the drivetrain. The lift made things easier. I was able to lift it up and remove the driveshaft, cut the exhaust out, and generally remove everything on the bottom side.
Nice project, keep us up to date on your progress.
Rusty bolts might break which can be a major pita. I have good experience with Free All penetrating oil and heat. Heat up the bolt with a torch, able Free all, heat again, oil again,... Cook the bolt and hopefully you can remove it without breaking the bolt.
I unbolted everything off of the front suspension that I could. Using my preferred tools of a grinder, and plasma cutter I started hacking the front crossmember into oblivion!!!
Nothing left but the crossmember All of the unbolted suspension pieces Plasma cutter made quick work of slicing through the old metal Showed how I cut across the top and then around the front
I forgot to add that I marked the center of the front wheel on the frame. I triangulated off of a set of digits to make sure the frame is square. Once I was happy with the squareness of the frame, I used those rivets and measurements to square the center marks. After hacking out the crossmember, I had the grind out the factory welded parts on the crossmember. I bought a kit to install th CV front sub member. Before making any cuts I hung the sub frame on a jack and quickly squared it up.
So, I’m pretty sure I took the CV crossmember in and out about 50 times. I hung it, squared it, and marked the hole in the bottom for the mounting dowel. Funny, there was a hole already there………Just not large enough. I took a carbide bud and enlarged the hole. But it wasn’t big enough the first time and I didn’t realize that until I had put the crossmember in…….Just to take it out. After getting the hole the correct size I put the crossmember in and squared it up, marked the mounting kit, and then again removed the crossmember. The crossmember mocked up. Mocked and marked for the mounting kit
I bought this kit on evilbay (it was us made, but not brand name) and it looks nice. I marked the frame for the cuts that would need to be made to slide this in. If you’ve never seen one of these kits let me quickly explain. It replaces the needed bolt tubes and boxing plates that’s typically on you with prefabbed assembly. You have to finish weld the edges, but it’s prevent and ready. I used a thin cutoff wheel and snuck up on the marks while trying the fit the kit. Once it slid in and was tight to the frame…..I once again installed the crossmember. I ran the bolts in place and once square I tightened them up. I double checked the measurements and tack welded the mounting kit. I removed the crossmember and fully welded the kit. Side view of how the kit mounts. Opposite view Obligatory weld picture. I’m using a Lincoln 180 mig. Obligatory weld pic. I ground down the top weld to see if I liked it smoothed out. Let me know what you think, weld or smooth?
After the welds were completed I once again installed the crossmember, but this time it’s in until paint whoo hoo!!! Cv in and bolted down tight. I checked the squareness and it was spot on! Here it is on the ground with its wheels on. All said I did the job in about 10 hrs by myself.
To move this in and out (I need my shop for regular maintenance on DD, really for anything) I needed some way to steer it. I used a ford triangle universal connected to the rack. I used a 3/4” 30 spline to 3/4 DD universal and a solid piece of 3/4”DD shaft connecting everything. It’s solid and there is zero play. Thanks for looking!
Now that Front suspension is mostly in (I have the rear trailing arms to mount, but haven’t decided on which mount to use yet) it time to move on to the drivetrain. Like I mentioned earlier I’m using a 5.0 HO from a 91 Mustang GT. I’m also using the M5ODR2 from a 94 F150. Being that I don’t have a parts vehicle, I’m having to piece it together. So after making a list and checking it twice I made a huge (well huge to me) order. I got a flywheel, flywheel bolts, clutch kit, clutch master/slave cylinder, starter, and bolts to put it all together. Here’s my powerplant, it should move the old truck pretty well. The alternator is a 160A 3G unit that is new. I have a complete accessory drive too. Santa dropped off all of these goodies for me. This is just one of many orders I will have to make on this project.
