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I transferred the cardboard to metal. I see a socket to mark the round ends and center punched the bolt hole. I cut it out of 1/4” plate and cleaned things up with a sanding disc. Using a socket to mark the rounded edges. Cardboard marking on steel. Cut out and holes drilled.
From my cardboard template I knew where my bends needed to be. I marked them and since I don’t have anything that can bend 1/4” plate I used my cut off wheel to scribe a bit of steel and bend on the cut line. Marked and ready to cut. Since the the bends are off set the cuts need to be as well.
I mocked the part up and tack welded it in place. I then fully welded both the cut lines and to the keyed actuator on the clutch pedal. I then put it all in place an did a trial fit. I had to Terrill a new hole for the push rod. I will weld up the othe hole. Once I deemed it acceptable I removed the bolt so someone doesn’t blow out the prefilled, pre bled line. I do have one concern, the upper intake may be damn close to hitting the clutch master cylinder. Only time will tell I guess. Fingers crossed. Thanks for looking! I did notice that when putting pressure on the pedal that the firewall flexes some. I will need to brace it some how.
nice job on that linkeage. i love to see how everyone comes up with their solutionsto problems like this.
on another note: i've noticed on these crown vic swaps that the steering rod and steering column hookup seems to be very simple. no extra bends in the shaft or anything like that. i'm really anxious to get mine started and i feel good about how it might go.
i've been seriously moving toward a 4.6 DOHC out of a Lincoln MK Vlll. there's one in the local pull and pay that arrived last week. it has 186K on it, but the engine is spotless and super clean. my wife said that the mileage seems high and maybe i should look for a better motor. i said the only better motor is a 5.0 out of a mustang gt or a F150. she said maybe i should look in that direction. hmmmmmmm......my WIFE pushing me toward a coyote??!!
so, i'm investigating that option. but seeing everyone else's build is awesome.
Agreed. I like seeing what others can do with theirs.
I stop by a place to get a haircut the other day. I didn't have my truck but as soon as I shut my car off, a 64 f150 pulled in next to me. When the driver got out, I saw that it had a swapped out dash and custom seats.
nice job on that linkeage. i love to see how everyone comes up with their solutionsto problems like this.
on another note: i've noticed on these crown vic swaps that the steering rod and steering column hookup seems to be very simple. no extra bends in the shaft or anything like that. i'm really anxious to get mine started and i feel good about how it might go.
i've been seriously moving toward a 4.6 DOHC out of a Lincoln MK Vlll. there's one in the local pull and pay that arrived last week. it has 186K on it, but the engine is spotless and super clean. my wife said that the mileage seems high and maybe i should look for a better motor. i said the only better motor is a 5.0 out of a mustang gt or a F150. she said maybe i should look in that direction. hmmmmmmm......my WIFE pushing me toward a coyote??!!
so, i'm investigating that option. but seeing everyone else's build is awesome.
The steering is pretty easy I’d say. An aftermarket column may change things if you move it side to side. Thank you for the compliment on the linkage. I can’t celebrate just yet, the upper intake has only about 1/8” clearance from the clutch master cylinder. I’m looking at a few options, one of which is to move it😩. Ive always been a fan of the mark 4.6 engine. Depending on the costs and what transmission you plan on using may sway my choice between that and a coyote. The coyote is superior to the mark 4.6, but that’s my opinion. We can chat about that if you’d like.
Agreed. I like seeing what others can do with theirs.
I stop by a place to get a haircut the other day. I didn't have my truck but as soon as I shut my car off, a 64 f150 pulled in next to me. When the driver got out, I saw that it had a swapped out dash and custom seats.
While I may not like the style of everyone’s projects, I always appreciate the work and design that is put into them. I’m constantly taking ideas from other peoples projects and how they look at a problem.I’m curious about the dash now🤔 Thanks for looking.
I’ve ordered my paint for the firewall and I need to button up the rest of the work on it. I used pictures to “guesstimate” the engine placement for the clutch master cylinder. Wellllll, that was a bad choice. While the work to install the master cylinder wasn’t completely wasted, I did have to drop back and punt on some things. Everything is jumbled too tight. I’m not worried about these two being this tight. They are both solid to the same structure. They will move together. I have roughly 1/8” between the upper intake and the clutch master cylinder. The engine will flex and most probably hit. I need to do something with this. Another view, sorry for the crappy lighting.
After much thinking and debate with a couple of friends, several options were on the table. One is to replace the intake with something shorter. Another is to mover the master cylinder to the other side of the brake booster and have a ton of room. I think I have settled on “clocking the intake 180*. I remembered there was a factory Ford vehicle that had the throttle body pointing towards the driver side. BTW it’s an early 80’s LTD if anyone is interested in looking at it. With the engine on a stand I started looking at what needed to be done. The vacuum fittings needed to be reversed, the valve covers swapped and I’ll need a spacer to raise the upper intake. I can only see one issue going forward. That is if I ever plan an upgrade on the intake I’ll have to make sure that it must be able to clear the master cylinder. All of the intakes I have seen are not clockable. If anyone sees any other issue please let me know. I’m not against moving the master cylinder. Thanks for looking! I needed to move the vacuum fittings to the opposite side. Luckily Ford drilled and tapped everything to be reversed. Everything is lined up under the intake. The fuel pressure regulator is in the way. I thought I’d swap it side to side as well, but it won’t work that way. Damn! With the intake clocked you can’t open the oil filler, easy fix to swap side to side. With the valve covers swapped side to side. This why I need an spacer. I need to plug a vacuum hose into the top of the fuel pressure regulator. 1/2” will be fine.
Is it the master body or the fluid tank that is close to the intake?
If just the tank they make remote tank / masters just mount tank a little higher and run a hose to the master body.
They do that with PS, pump mounted to motor and the tank is mounted else where with a hose to keep the pump filled.
Yea I would have installed it on the other side of the booster but thats me
As for the firewall flex this is an issue with the 80's trucks where the firewall will crack, you hear a clicking noise and / or the transmission is hard to shift or cant get into gear.
For the 80's truck there is a firewall brace / bracket that ties the firewall and the cowl above that master area as 1 unit.
The cowl above and the way the firewall is shaped it 90* up top and a 45* to the throttle pedal.
This is all inside the cab. Maybe do a search in the 80 truck area for firewall cracking or bracing.
Dave ----
Back up a few pages to the motor mounts and transmission mount.
Are the motor solid and the trans rubber?
I did not look to closely at the motor side but dont think I seen rubber.
If you mix solid and rubber and start putting power down you may end up braking bell housing as the trans tries to move around but the motor cant.
Just thinking out loud is all and great work
Dave ----
Is it the master body or the fluid tank that is close to the intake?
If just the tank they make remote tank / masters just mount tank a little higher and run a hose to the master body.
They do that with PS, pump mounted to motor and the tank is mounted else where with a hose to keep the pump filled.
Yea I would have installed it on the other side of the booster but thats me
As for the firewall flex this is an issue with the 80's trucks where the firewall will crack, you hear a clicking noise and / or the transmission is hard to shift or cant get into gear.
For the 80's truck there is a firewall brace / bracket that ties the firewall and the cowl above that master area as 1 unit.
The cowl above and the way the firewall is shaped it 90* up top and a 45* to the throttle pedal.
This is all inside the cab. Maybe do a search in the 80 truck area for firewall cracking or bracing.
Dave ----
Dave, thanks for the response. I’m really leaning towards moving the clutch master cylinder to the other side of the brake booster. There were a couple reasons I put it where I did. The factory (94 F150) has the clutch master cylinder where I placed it. I think they have the brake booster farther towards the fender though. I’m using the 94 F150 clutch master cylinder. Also the mechanism that pushed the clutch (66 F100) was about perfect for easily connecting the push rod. I’ll just have to figure it out. I will check the 80’s firewall brace that you mentioned. I appreciate you giving your knowledge out.
Back up a few pages to the motor mounts and transmission mount.
Are the motor solid and the trans rubber?
I did not look to closely at the motor side but dont think I seen rubber.
If you mix solid and rubber and start putting power down you may end up braking bell housing as the trans tries to move around but the motor cant.
Just thinking out loud is all and great work
Dave ----
Dave, I originally built the motor mount solid as a temporary mount so I could move forward with other things. I did go back and rebuild the motor mount with rubber bushings. We are on the same page with the idea of a combination of soft and hard mounts. You’ll eventually find a weak link. Thanks for looking.
So, I’ve been lazy and it’s been really cold here lately (as I’m sure most of you guys in the states have been). My shop is just another bay in the attached garage. It’s fully insulated and stays mid to low 40’s when it’s 0 outside. I put on some warmer clothes and grabbed a slew of grinders. I used a coarse wire wheel, a wire cup, and a cut off wheel. I cleaned off all of the loose paint and surface rust on the firewall and sides that are covered by the fenders. I trimmed off the shifter eyes (I’m not sure what to call them, they held shift linkages) at the bottom of the steering column. I still need to weld the holes closed that won’t be used. I also have a plan to move the clutch master cylinder to the drivers side of the brake booster.
I just followed thru, and very nice CAD work. Hahaha
I have a pile of Analog CAD templates that I made up years ago when in my prime. If we never attempt the dream, we will never have any Fails either. hahaha
Oh, early on, you had asked about your Welds - to grind or leave native-as-placed. I typically don't grind so looking back later I can see what I have, with nothing covered up by grinding. Just me. If I don't lke the looks of a weld, I may just grind it back and lay on a nice looking bead that I'm happy with.
For the upper rear front fender bolt, did you use careful impact so as to not dislodge the Caged Nut ? just curious, as I have some to remove.
