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I just followed thru, and very nice CAD work. Hahaha
I have a pile of Analog CAD templates that I made up years ago when in my prime. If we never attempt the dream, we will never have any Fails either. hahaha
Oh, early on, you had asked about your Welds - to grind or leave native-as-placed. I typically don't grind so looking back later I can see what I have, with nothing covered up by grinding. Just me. If I don't lke the looks of a weld, I may just grind it back and lay on a nice looking bead that I'm happy with.
For the upper rear front fender bolt, did you use careful impact so as to not dislodge the Caged Nut ? just curious, as I have some to remove.
Greaser, yep, I’m labeling my collection of CAD templates and saving them. You never know when they may come in handy. My wife calls me a hoarder, but she’s never laid on her back for a few hours measuring and fitting.
I was happy with my welds, I wanted to see what finished might look like. I plan to go back and rerun that one bead.
I dowsed the hardware for the front end with PB Blaster. I used my 1/4” drive impact driver so as to not hit it too hard. It still ended up breaking the caged nut. I usually use Kroil, but didn’t have any. I still haven’t worked on taking that front clip apart. Hopefully soon 🤞
I got off of my butt and filled in the holes that won’t be used on the firewall. I cut and trimmed circles out of 16 gauge sheet metal that I had. I actually had to cut a couple twice. I had too big of a gap. I learned in the past that it’s a **** show trying to fill in gaps vs fitting the gaps first. I didn’t get in action shots. Here’s the final pics. Thanks for looking! Here’s the choke hole closed and the hole I made for the clutch master cylinder. Here’s the two holes (I assumed they were for electrical wiring) closed up.
Nice build, thanks for including the booster info. I just rebuilt my 66 f-250 breaks and I'm not sure about updating to disks but a booster may be a good way to go.
Nice build, thanks for including the booster info. I just rebuilt my 66 f-250 breaks and I'm not sure about updating to disks but a booster may be a good way to go.
Thanks for the positive feedback. The master cylinder for the brakes has a 1” bore I believe. It may be wrong for Drum/Drum brakes. Double check before you order/buy anything. Thanks for looking.
I had the intention of just cleaning the engine up and putting a good paint job on it. I have 2k paint and I wanted it done right. Well the best laid plans of mice and men I guess. I ended up tearing into the engine. I took the water pump off, then the timing cover. Im going to replace the timing set since it’s so east to at this point. I am removing the lower intake and I’m looking to get it blasted with the valve covers and upper intake. Here is the engine after a good scrub. I will give it a good spray down with brake cleaner and then some reassembly before painting. Here are some pictures. Before and after. This is the engines condition as I bought it. It has good wear and compression. It’s just dirty and grimy from oil leaks. Those valve covers are supposed to be gray/aluminum color. I used super clean and brushes to get the caked on grease and grime off. I did a little bit of cleaning on the lower intake. With all of the natural sand pits from casting, I couldn’t tell what was still dirty. The intake will be removed and cleaned/blasted. It’s ton’s better at this point.
that motor cleaned up nicely. i wanted to get an older 5.0 like this in the worst kind of way to swap into my '66. but, in the end i didn't want a pushrod motor. i went back and forth over a 4.6....2 and 3 valve. in the end, i think i'm gonna toss a coyote into it. you have a nice build going on here. i'm anxious to see it up and running.
that motor cleaned up nicely. i wanted to get an older 5.0 like this in the worst kind of way to swap into my '66. but, in the end i didn't want a pushrod motor. i went back and forth over a 4.6....2 and 3 valve. in the end, i think i'm gonna toss a coyote into it. you have a nice build going on here. i'm anxious to see it up and running.
Thank you Ramrod! The biggest reason I went with the 5.0 HO is the EFI. I have a YouTube channel that is specifically for DIY and the EFI harness. I teach how to strip it down and build it up to use in anything. I’ve done my harness 4-5 years ago and I’m kinda keeping the course. Im not anxious to see it up and running, I am excited to see progress. I have to budget my time so I have built it in my head dozens of times. Seeing it in real life is a huge plus.
I’ve had my *** handed to me this winter/spring. Too many things are chewing at my butt to get done and not enough time. Ok, excuses over time to get back out in the shop. My engine is a “Good” used engine, but I’d kick myself to put lipstick on a pig and then have issues. I tore the engine down and replaced the head gaskets, timing chain and oil pump. I cleaned all of the gasket surfaces and it’s ready to get buttoned up. I’ve got the parts, I just need to do a bit more cleaning. Making some progress
It's looking good. I'm following along. Looks like it is about paint ready.
Thanks! I’ve got to clean the timing cover and I can install it and the water pump. Then the oil pan can be installed. The valve covers are ready to be painted, I’m still trying to find someone to blast the upper and lower intake. I’m not having luck and may have to do that myself.
@Ohmthis
You might try soaking the intake in a Vinegar bath for rust removal.
Its the factory 5.0 HO EFI intake. I just acquired a blast cabinet so I will probably glass bead blast the parts. Thank you for your advice. I have several metal pieces that may get a vinegar bath.
I’ve got the engine, transmission and parts cleaned and ready for paint. I ended up just scrubbing the valve covers and intakes with a mixture of super clean, small brushes, and a scotchbrite pad. I’m hoping to paint, but the weather has turned on me. We will see what I can do. Taped up and ready
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