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I have removed this bracket on all of the trucks I have CV swapped. One difference in the ones I swap is that I build the boxing plates and box about 18-20 inches of the frame on both sides to help stiffen and strengthen the chassis.
Great plan! I added a kit that did have some plating. It might be beneficial to add more or built a cross member that will fit better. We will see once I get the cab off.
You're making me want to do my own exhaust. That looks like a nice clean install. Very nicely done.
Thanks! I appreciate the nice comments. Definitely give it a try, it’s not too hard. I’ll add as many details as I can to help. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
I have done the exhaust on 2 of the trucks we built to keep. There is something very calming about taking these bends and building something that works for your application. It is not the fastest, but it is the most rewarding.
I have done the exhaust on 2 of the trucks we built to keep. There is something very calming about taking these bends and building something that works for your application. It is not the fastest, but it is the most rewarding.
It is very rewarding for me to see an idea/plan go from my brain, through my hands, and into fruition. In the end, I will be doing every part myself. Thanks for following along.
I’ve been on a special project at work that requires a lot of overtime. I’ve been super busy and unfortunately I have not had time to “play” on the truck. Spring break is here and I’m at home by myself………So, let’s get on the truck! I’ve really been wanting to get the tank in. I’m running a 1970 mustang tank 18 or 20 gal between the frame rails. First was to get off the bed. I cut the rusty bolts and it was loose. I made a frame out of 2x4’s and used the engine hoist. It made for a pretty easy one man job.
I needed to cut out a cross member at the rear, it will be reinstalled at the back behind the tank. I cut the rivets and punched the out with an air hammer. The tank is a touch wider than the rails. I needed to remove 3/8” to both sides top and bottom. Even though I have a plasma cutter, I chose to use a cut off wheel to keep this as nice of a cut as I could. Crossmember removed at the rear of the frame. Lines marked to be cut. Frame cut and ready to a fit up of the tank.
After I verified it will fit like I want, I started the install of the in tank fuel pump. I chose to use a FI Tech universal pump. It uses standard pumps and has -6 AN male fittings. I measured and marked where I wanted it. I placed it on a flat spot where the float for the fuel sender would not be in the way. I drilled the 2 1/8 hole with a hole saw. Then made marked the hold down holes and drilled those. While installing the hold down fitting, 2 of the 6 hold down screws (Stainless steel) galled and I had to trash them (Dammit!!!). I got some new screws and let’s try again. This time I used just a touch of anti seize and majic!
The tank has support from the frame rails, but not between them. I used 1” square tube to make a frame. Some people put the frame below the tank. They don’t want to show any of the tank from behind. I want as much room on top of the tank for fuel lines. Here’s the frame, weld picture, and the set up in place. I will bolt the tank to the frame and frame to frame rails. Thanks for looking!
Dang! It’s been awhile since I’ve “played” on the old truck! Father’s Day is here and I can do anything I want to…..A day in the shop, ok! I spent a lot of time cleaning up the wiring and wrapping it with braided coverings. It was tedious, but I think it worked out really well. Unfortunately, I only got half of the day, so I’ll have to plan the next part out. Here are some pictures. The cable for the mass air meter will be secured to the tube with a tab I haven’t come up with yet. Thanks for looking.
Back to the wiring. This time running the big cables for the battery, starter, grounds, and other miscellaneous wires in the area. I wrapped the cables in the same braided covering. I used red heat shrink on the ends of the positive cables and black for the negative. Should make for easy identification. I mounted a power block to have a place for all of the positive (1x #10, 2x #8, 1x #4, and 2x 1/0) to meet. I also used a perfectly placed factory hole to ground the frame and bond all of my grounds. The frame will be used to conduct the grounds for the fuel pump, fuel sender, fan/fan relay, and front/rear lights. Here are pictures. I’m hoping I can get this thing started up in the next 6 months. Thanks for looking! Here is my Positive bus. I have a cover to go over the exposed lugs. You can see where my negative cable is bonded with the frame before continuing on to the engine block. Here is the cables connected to the starter and engine block. There is another #2 ground from the back of the alternator to ground lug.
Looks good. Maybe add a heat shield to the headers above the starter wires?
I am going to coat the headers with Cerakote. Afterwards, I’ll see how hot things get. I’ll probably put a a heat shield over the starter solenoid. That will cover the cable to that component. Thanks for the advice!
very nice build. I sprayed my headers with this stuff. it may match the rest of your silver paint scheme nicely. no fading or flaking so far. some before/after also. This is the comparison to show you what it looks like. next pic is both headers done.
Two coats on these headers. the second coat brought out the silver a lot more.
8line, how have the headers adapted to the heat? I worry that the heat cycles will eventually just wear out the paint and I’ll be back to square one. The cerakote is definitely a lot of labor, but I’ve seen great results. Let me know how they hold up.
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