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I also cleaned up the factory fuel rails and replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I added quick connect to AN adapters for the fuel lines. The fittings are Russell and should be top notch. The return may be returned. It doesn’t fit well. I’m afraid it will leak. I guess we will have to wait and see. I cleaned the dirt and oily trash off. I hit the rust with a brass brush, but I didn’t use any other action.
I installed the injectors and fuel rails. I would have loved to coat the fuel rail black. It is factory chrome and I don’t like the idea of sandblasting anything that can get into the fuel/oil of and engine. I’ve gotten the wires and front accessory belt on as well.
I removed all of the factory tape and split loom off of the injector harness. Here’s a little look at how I plan to wire tuck the harness. I will wrap and hold the harness up to the fuel rails. Thanks for looking!
I got to work (play) a little last night. I’ve been working on wire tucking all of the wiring on the engine. I’ve got the alternator wiring and EFI harness tucked up next to the fuel rail. I plan to mount the coil and Map sensor on the firewall. The rest of the wiring will run down the bell housing and enter the cab in front of the shifter. Thanks for looking. A look at how the wiring runs on the inside of the fuel rails. There is an alternator wire and a couple other ones for the charging system on the passenger side as well The coil and map sensor will mounted on the fire wall. I need to make sure I don’t drill into something before I mount them. I will use self tapping screws to attach them temporarily and weld nuts to the inside before paint. Sneak peek at what it will look like after finished. Where the wiring runs down the back to hide things.
So I stole an hour when I got home from work today. I really wanted to get the mess of wire and believe me, it’s a mess inside the cab. The plan is to build a console for the shifter from the dash to the front of the seat. After looking at where everything was under the dash the most logical place for me was just up from the shifter in the trans tunnel. I used a set of dial calipers to measure the notch of the factory rubber grommet. It’s oval shape to get the computer plug in. 1 1/2”x3” oval was what I needed. I placed a piece of cardboard over the transmission to keep nasty metal shavings out. I marked it on the sheet metal and drilled a couple of pilot holes for a 1 3/8 hole saw (yeah I know it’s not exactly 1 1/2, but they don’t cut that exact either), after drilling my holes I cut the rest with a set of snips. I deburred the hole with a file and proceeded to very carefully stuff this wad of wire in. All in all I call it a success. I will tidy everything up and build the relay box. It all has to come out for paint, but I know it will fit. This also gives me a place for other wiring to pass through for the fuel pump, fuel sending unit, rear lights and similar if I choose to. Thanks for looking! Marked up and ready to drill. I placed a piece of cardboard over the painted transmission to keep it from getting too geeked. These are drilled with a hole saw Snips used between the holes. I cleaned up the rough cut areas with a file. All the wire carefully pulled in. I will need to spend a day cleaning up this mess and building the relay box.
I've been looking for ideas to run my wiring when I get the time to work on it. Are you putting your fuse box inside of the console? That's what I thought about doing.
That wiring is only for the EFI and the smaller alternator wires. I will be cleaning it up and making connections to the truck’s ignition switch. There are relays that power the eec, fuel pump, ignition, and O2 sensors that I will be putting in its own box with fuses. The computer and fuse/relay box will be in the console. I still plan to place the fuse block on the firewall. I’m not sure which side of the steering column I will use. Do you have any ideas?
What I'd like to do is put the fuse box in the console and run everything from there. An alternate would be on the rear of the cab where the gas tank is right now. I've envisioned putting it there along with wiring and hardware for a sound system. I'm addicted to pinterest and change my mind about every five minutes.
Putting it in the console might just be the answer.
My only major issue with putting the fuse/relay box in the console is getting to it if I have a problem. I will be using a full bench seat from a 95 F150. The console will run from the dash(ish) area to the front of the seat. I will probably make a removable top that just snaps on (I’m still thinking that out). If I needed to I could quickly pop it off.
I have the same concern - getting to the fuses while its in the console. I toyed with a removable panel for access. I also thought of mounting it on a panel mounted on the back wall of the cab between the bucket seats and having a flip down door for access. I've looked on pinterest and I've seen some really cool wiring solutions. I know many car manufacturers have fuse and relay panels under the hood. I just have way too many ideas floating around in my head.
I like your removable top idea. Velcro is your friend.....or, those earth magnets. They'll hold anything tight.
I had thought of Velcro, but I think I like the magnet idea better. The idea of the back wall is a good one. I plan to make a “speaker” box to go back there. The box will essentially cover everything that the fuel tank covers. I will have speakers, amp, storage, and now maybe electrical(s) in it. What did you search on Pinterest? I might go down that rabbit hole! I want my wiring to be so neat that it’s “invisible”.
Pinterest is the gift that keeps on giving. I searched automotive wiring, automotive console, auto stereo.
I like the panel with the sound system wiring on the back of the cab. I want mine to be invisible too.
I’ve been reading everyone’s posts and I had to get something going. If you live in the Midwest and over to the east coast you understand how cold it’s been. My garage/shop is insulated like a house, but I don’t have any HVAC……Yet. It stays about 30* warmer than outside. We’ve been in the teens for highs going on 2 weeks now. It was warmer today so time to take advantage. I continued laying out the wiring. I plan to have the battery in the bed with an old keg made to cover it up and give some character. I wanted to make sure the power cable is out of the way of the exhaust. I put my headers on loosely (be nice they will be blasted and painted with Cerakote) and added the collector. This will let me see where things will be and I can avoid them. Here is a picture of the power cables from the alternator (#2), the EEC, the fuse block (both #8), and the alternator sensing wire. I chose different colors for the two #8 wires so I can’t confuse them. Everything will be covered with a mesh type cover. I’m crimping the fusible link to both #8. I will be using a maxi fuse on the alternator. My passenger side header with the power wiring. Here I’m crimping the fusible link on. I’m using fusible links on the two #8 cables. I will use a maxi fuse on the alternator wire.
