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I bundled them together and used tape as a temporary means until it’s all ready to be done with. I then used Adle clamps and sheet metal screws to secure them. I will be using machine screws and captive nuts for the final product. I also laid the O2 wiring in place and held it there with zip ties. The bundle will be terminated at an insulated stud. A heavy cable will come from the battery and another will go to the starter from there. Here you can see the driver side O2 sensor cable. I’m trying to mock up everything and make sure there are no issues.
Last thing I did was to add a couple more wires to the engine for things like fan switch, oil pressure and water temp senders, and two spares. I then hung the ignition coil and MAP sensor on the fire wall. This is it for the engine wiring. The rest of the wiring will run up under the inner fenders. Thanks for looking! I used screws to temporarily mount the coil and MAP sensor. I will weld captive nuts to the firewall and use bolts.
That’s a good looking engine. Good to see that you’re being careful with the wiring placement. Bet you’re itching to fire it up.
Thank you! I’m hoping to have the fuel system built next month and then I will go over and tidy the engine wiring in the cab. At that point, I’ll try the engine. I gotta make a list at this point.
I did a quick mockup before needing to leave for a cheer event (my daughter is in HS Cheer, someone kill me please!). I’m going to trim up the pipes to get it above the transmission crossmember. It will fit a ton better for my plans. Sorry for the dark pictures!
I got out today and started trimming and lining up my exhaust. I used my Klein digital angle finder to get an initial angle. I did a little math (the kind I said I’d never use in HS) and came up with the angle of bend I needed. I marked the pipe and wrapped a heavy piece of paper, lining up the edges.
I don’t have a bandsaw that doesn’t take 3 hands to use (thanks Dewalt for that safety contraption!) so I used a cut off wheel. Once cut I used a flat ******* file to make sure the cut is flat and square.
Once cut, and filed I used a grinding disc to bevel both sides. I used a rat tail file to debur the ID. Held it place with witness marks, I placed three tack welds. I slipped the straight pipes to make sure they were lined up evenly. That’s all I have done. I need to order an H pipe and some hanger grommets. Thanks for looking!
One question as I am currently working on my own custom exhaust. Do you feel the cross member that was rivetted (maybe yours was bolted) here (blue box on the pic I uploaded, and labeled 5025 in the drawing) is not required because you have the crown vic front? This cross member is going to make it tricky for me to run exhaust so wondering If I can cut it out or not. Thinking the crown vic crossmember is still only supporting the engine like the original crossmember was, so why are you then able to safely remove the other one?
I have removed this bracket on all of the trucks I have CV swapped. One difference in the ones I swap is that I build the boxing plates and box about 18-20 inches of the frame on both sides to help stiffen and strengthen the chassis.
One question as I am currently working on my own custom exhaust. Do you feel the cross member that was rivetted (maybe yours was bolted) here (blue box on the pic I uploaded, and labeled 5025 in the drawing) is not required because you have the crown vic front? This cross member is going to make it tricky for me to run exhaust so wondering If I can cut it out or not. Thinking the crown vic crossmember is still only supporting the engine like the original crossmember was, so why are you then able to safely remove the other one?
The radius arms mount there. They are removed for the CV swap. It’s my belief that this cross member tied the two radius arms together and to the frame. Without them, it’s not needed. The CV cross member is a structural component of the front end. It’s is extremely strong. I hope that helps!
