When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
miniature o rings on each bolt to keep them on during placement. I wouldn’t attempt placement with just loose bolts.
A 1/4 ratchet with a 3” extension , a 12” extension, and a universal.
the gaskets for the tubes/engine are way thicker than the o rings so everything compresses nicely.
I followed your cheat to the T and did the same for reinstalling the upper intake... But IMO retorquing that passenger side inside bolt was a PITA... Had bought cheap wobble extensions for my quarter inch Blue Point set that I have, plus had a quarter inch universal as well... Bought other stuff, that I didn't use but now have them, but didn't buy a long reach metric Allen tee wrench set until AFTER it was all installed... I torqued that bolt close to the coolant cross pipe with a small T allen wrench pretty good though... Hindsight is always 2020... Because I thought I could use the 3/8 inch 8mm socket I DID buy but could not...
My next set tools will be a set of long reach flex head ratcheting head metric wrenches... I borrowed a 8mm/10mm wrench from my buddy and it made short work of retorquing those silicone coupler clamps on my Rudys pipe... I also want to find a quarter inch 8mm Allen socket for the FCA.
When I did my pusher install the s@b map spacer would not fit in the hole so I did t install it.
but, since installing the pusher intake I have had 2 cels related to map sensor. Both during super long idle times (playing with idash settings).
since the pusher intake is super hot… to get the map spacer back in….had to sand it down for a while, clean it off, then stretch a new undersized heat resistant oring on it. I used the smallest oring I could get on it. The spacer is a tight fit and the oring seals it pretty good. New heat proof oring for the map sensor as well…normal size.
Call pusher to see what they think about the super hot engine bay. I never hear gun the stock setup so I don’t know if the heat is normal.
seems fine if. Normal driving
but..if I park for a while …eng compartment gets hot. If I ocr regen, it gets super hot.
ill let pusher know just as an fyi.
i changed the o rings to the nap and spacer to heat resistant ones . Other than that…I guess I could put an egr blocking plate in and drill a hole in the plate …playing with the hole size to both prevent egr flow errors on one hand and reduce heat on the other…if there is such a thing.
also, this would probally be eliminated with a vented hood…the rear vent on the vented hood is right over the manifold intakes which is the hottest part of the pusher pipe.
during normal driving the pusher pipe is 139 to 140 degrees..but…if I ocr or let it sit while idling the temps are 170 plus if long idling and 200 if I ocr.
I installed a Banks cold air intake system. It improved performance. Seems like the truck responds better. I got about 1mpg improvement since installing while pulling a 14,000 lb load.
I installed a Banks cold air intake system. It improved performance. Seems like the truck responds better. I got about 1mpg improvement since installing while pulling a 14,000 lb load.
just curious how many miles were on your stock filter?
