Pusher intake
Great point.
I changed my intake becuase I had some binding between the metering valve and existing stock bottom section of the intake when I put my DPK in….choice was either do some grinding or use some washers…I use washers…but think the washers causes an exhuast leak becuase of the tilt….i also hated the big plastic mess ford put on the 2017 thru 2019 6.7 (and prior). I think they went to a slimmer cast top section intake in 2020 and later.
if you have a 2020 or later I don’t think it would be worth changing the pipes and or if you do not have a 17 thru 19.
I changed my intake becuase I had some binding between the metering valve and existing stock bottom section of the intake when I put my DPK in….choice was either do some grinding or use some washers…I use washers…but think the washers causes an exhuast leak becuase of the tilt….i also hated the big plastic mess ford put on the 2017 thru 2019 6.7 (and prior). I think they went to a slimmer cast top section intake in 2020 and later.
if you have a 2020 or later I don’t think it would be worth changing the pipes and or if you do not have a 17 thru 19.
Another question for you. What are the conditions for your truck when you get passive regens? More specifically, what is EGT 4 at when this happens? You do a lot of city driving. When I drive in the city or local stop and go, I never see any passive regening. Only when I'm at higher speeds on the expressway and climbing hills, along with climbing the local hills on the way home and the exhaust is hot, do I see reduction in SL on the iDash. I'm just wondering where you're seeing it and where you're driving. My EGTs, specifically EGT 1 and 4 that I monitor on my "EDC" screen set up, get up to high 500s/ low 600s for EGT1 and usually the same or slightly lower for EGT 4 (depending on the conditions).
I'm going to be honest here, if I ever did look into a Pusher intake, I think I'd get it coated with a thermal protection layer of ceramic coating to keep the engine heat out of the intake... because it's weird how you said you thought it was hotter under the hood WITH the Pusher intake installed which could be that intake absorbing the heat possibly... I'm always thinking.
before the pusher intake…passive would rarely happen….long drive…engine hot…long stretch of no load driving…etc. but with the pusher intake…I have seen regular passive regens at local driving speeds …25mph, etc.
the engine compartment got super hot at first with the intake. I checked my coolant with a hydrometer and both the egr and engine coolant were way off…not enough water ….prior to this I pretty much went with the 50/50 mix instructions by volume and never tested it. Once I got the coolant mix exact…the hot to touch problem stopped and no part of the engine bay that I could reach was too hot to touch.
but …insulation wrapping intuitively sounds like a good idea…but I would heat gun the intake during and after a drive to see what the real world temps really are.
I changed my intake becuase I had some binding between the metering valve and existing stock bottom section of the intake when I put my DPK in….choice was either do some grinding or use some washers…I use washers…but think the washers causes an exhuast leak becuase of the tilt….i also hated the big plastic mess ford put on the 2017 thru 2019 6.7 (and prior). I think they went to a slimmer cast top section intake in 2020 and later.
if you have a 2020 or later I don’t think it would be worth changing the pipes and or if you do not have a 17 thru 19.
before the pusher intake…passive would rarely happen….long drive…engine hot…long stretch of no load driving…etc. but with the pusher intake…I have seen regular passive regens at local driving speeds …25mph, etc.
the engine compartment got super hot at first with the intake. I checked my coolant with a hydrometer and both the egr and engine coolant were way off…not enough water ….prior to this I pretty much went with the 50/50 mix instructions by volume and never tested it. Once I got the coolant mix exact…the hot to touch problem stopped and no part of the engine bay that I could reach was too hot to touch.
but …insulation wrapping intuitively sounds like a good idea…but I would heat gun the intake during and after a drive to see what the real world temps really are.
Not a wrap but this... a thermal barrier coating to keep the Pusher from absorbing any heat from the engine and transferring it to the intake charge plus maybe keeping the underhood temps down... I'm still looking at venting my hood but like the Pusher, not a high priority at this time. But I'm always overthinking and overkill...

Not a wrap but this... a thermal barrier coating to keep the Pusher from absorbing any heat from the engine and transferring it to the intake charge plus maybe keeping the underhood temps down... I'm still looking at venting my hood but like the Pusher, not a high priority at this time. But I'm always overthinking and overkill...

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mainly to move the IAT upstream from my methonal injectors….and..it looks like SPE sent me an 11 thru 16 cold side …it has the 2.5 intercooler connection…so that may be causing some spooky bananas .
so the spe will be coming out. I think the IAT being opposite from the npt ports is causing me problems.
will know for sure when it all goes in and I crank up all the settings…AEM, Deringer, pedal monster.
probally get the pipe and of feb beginning of March…they need extra weeks for powder coating and adding npt ports.
they connect the egt at a 45 degree angle…a lot of hot gases are being ventured into the turbo.
the pusher had the IAT in almost stock position and the npt ports between the IAT and butterfly valve.
this should prevent the methonal injectors from spraying the IAT.
yoy can see the IAT hole opposite one of the npt ports.













