When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
We've got problems. I tried ohm'ing the plugs again, but I could not get a reading on any one of the eight plugs. I changed my meter from the 200 ohm reading to the 2K. Still nothing. I switched it to 200k and I'm getting a reading. Maybe I should check my block grounds?
cant hurt to check block grounds but it wont interfere with test
I'm getting a reading but it's super high. I couldn't get a reading until I put my meter on 20K ohms. On the 20K setting it's reading 123.3 or something in that area. It fluctuated a lot. I would have thought I would have been able to read it on the 200 setting correct? Being that's the lowest setting. I highly doubt all a glow plugs mysteriously quit at the same time. That sounds like something else is the culprit.
No, I used a lot of 4/0 on the 5th wheel electrical system, but I used "appropriate" sized cables for the truck based on their location, length and intended use in the system.
As for automotive electrical or welding shops in your area, you might try giving one of the following a call.
Wesco Gas and Welding Supply
1213 N McKenzie St, Foley, AL 36535
Airgas
24335 AL-59, Robertsdale, AL 36567
Welder Shop
2149 W 1ST #5670 St Gulf Shores AL, Gulf Shores, AL 36542
If you wanted to go to an alternator/starter rebuilder shop, you would have to get over into Mobile to find one. At that point, you would be better off ordering something online. If you go to a welding shop for wire, be sure the coating has a heat rating for under hood applications or you could have a fire and or a serious electrical issue.
I'm having a real hard time ohm'ing out these glow plugs. I can only get my reader to read anything if I put it on the 2m setting. I don't know a whole lot about resistance but I assume that means 2 million ohms. Or maybe two mega ohms? I don't know. But with my reader in that setting my glow plugs are all reading 1.5 to 1.8. but with it on the 2m setting when that mean 1.5 million? I need someone to teach me about resistance settings on these multimeters.
This is the setting I'm putting it on to get my reading. It's the only setting that will give me a reading. Well it's the lowest setting that will give me a reading anyway.
I'm having a real hard time ohm'ing out these glow plugs. I can only get my reader to read anything if I put it on the 2m setting. I don't know a whole lot about resistance but I assume that means 2 million ohms. Or maybe two mega ohms? I don't know. But with my reader in that setting my glow plugs are all reading 1.5 to 1.8. but with it on the 2m setting when that mean 1.5 million? I need someone to teach me about resistance settings on these multimeters.
This is the setting I'm putting it on to get my reading. It's the only setting that will give me a reading. Well it's the lowest setting that will give me a reading anyway.
You want it on the "200" setting and reading should be less then 1.0 for a good glow plug.
I already did my block grounds and still have an open circuit to the glow plugs. I visually took the cable off the battery and the block pulled it out wire brushed the ends and on the battery side I actually cut the cable and started fresh. It's got to be the glow plugs. The more I think about it the more I convinced myself. The glue plugs are started directly into the block on the block is directly attached to my negative terminal of my battery. I also ohmed out my negative battery cables. They are great.
I really think the glow plugs are going, well I guess they have already gone. Best I can come up with is over the course of the last 21k miles since I stuck them to a battery to test them, they've just been going out one by one until now none of them work. What's the best place to order motorcraft glow plugs? Riff Raff? Bitterroot? I think I'm going to go ahead and order that battery cable set for 100 bucks so that I can redo my positive cables since my negative cables look good.
No, I used a lot of 4/0 on the 5th wheel electrical system, but I used "appropriate" sized cables for the truck based on their location, length and intended use in the system.
As for automotive electrical or welding shops in your area, you might try giving one of the following a call.
Wesco Gas and Welding Supply
1213 N McKenzie St, Foley, AL 36535
Airgas
24335 AL-59, Robertsdale, AL 36567
Welder Shop
2149 W 1ST #5670 St Gulf Shores AL, Gulf Shores, AL 36542
If you wanted to go to an alternator/starter rebuilder shop, you would have to get over into Mobile to find one. At that point, you would be better off ordering something online. If you go to a welding shop for wire, be sure the coating has a heat rating for under hood applications or you could have a fire and or a serious electrical issue.
Welder shop in Gulf shores is closed down. I called him a little while ago and he said he couldn't figure out how to get the Google ad down. Airgas will only sell 2/0 Cable in 500 ft rolls. And Wesco was already closed when I tried to call. I'll try them tomorrow. Or I might just go on the website you linked earlier. I will probably do everything in 2/0. It depends on the price of the cable versus the positive assembly Kwikkordead linked. But, I did order a crimper and a bunch of battery lugs so I would be able to get a little more you side of that stuff. I ordered an assorted battery cable lug kit with 140 assorted lugs. I use them for all sorts of things.
I already did my block grounds and still have an open circuit to the glow plugs. I visually took the cable off the battery and the block pulled it out wire brushed the ends and on the battery side I actually cut the cable and started fresh. It's got to be the glow plugs. The more I think about it the more I convinced myself. The glue plugs are started directly into the block on the block is directly attached to my negative terminal of my battery. I also ohmed out my negative battery cables. They are great.
I really think the glow plugs are going, well I guess they have already gone. Best I can come up with is over the course of the last 21k miles since I stuck them to a battery to test them, they've just been going out one by one until now none of them work. What's the best place to order motorcraft glow plugs? Riff Raff? Bitterroot? I think I'm going to go ahead and order that battery cable set for 100 bucks so that I can redo my positive cables since my negative cables look good.
I also noticed while I was under the truck redoing my block grounds, my oil cooler is leaking on the cold morning startups. Do you all recommend OEM Ford or alliant power for the reseal?
And can I reuse my coolant? It's not old and I put ELC red coolant in. I'd rather not replace it if I don't have to.
Well, I got rushed because of rain but, I was able to put my negative lead from my meter on the battery and the positive on the passenger side rear glow plug on the harness. Well I had the harness unplugged but on the valve cover itself, and I couldn't even get my meter to register anything. It just stayed at zero like I wasn't touching anything I should probably check block grounds and find somewhere to park where I can actually get a good couple of minutes to mess with it and get a proper test. I'm supposed to be testing the harness on the valve cover right? Not the harness coming to the valve cover correct?
Correct, valve cover to the glow plugs.
And with one end on the battery ground anode, hit the other end on any of a number of bolts around and you should get continuity. Once you see what you're reading, you can move over to your glow plugs for comparison.
I also noticed while I was under the truck redoing my block grounds, my oil cooler is leaking on the cold morning startups. Do you all recommend OEM Ford or alliant power for the reseal?
And can I reuse my coolant? It's not old and I put ELC red coolant in. I'd rather not replace it if I don't have to.
I would reuse the coolant as long as it's not contaminated.
