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Funny, I always heard the Dorman VC/UVCH was the way to go, counterintuitive as that sounds. I am pretty I have at least one on mine from when I took the truck to a shop back in 2017 when I first owned it. Driver's side I think I have never gone back in there since.
Starter has good reviews...90% gave it either 4 or 5 stars after 200+ reviews and some were just gripes about a bolt being hard to get to.
Somewhere I got the notion that Dorman uses AL wire in those harnesses. Their one piece concept is a great idea if only they used quality components. I've already had my share of dealing with Dorman's garbage so there won't be much of it in my future. One thing I did compromise on was the backplates on the rear axle. I was pretty surprised to find that the rust eaten ones that I removed weighed more than the shiny new Dorman replacements. And it was enough of a weight difference that I didn't need a scale to notice it.
The biggest issue I see with the dorman harnesses, and this is about every single one I have pulled off that has been on a year or more, is that the sheathing on the uvch always cracks, exposing bare wire.
The biggest issue I see with the dorman harnesses, and this is about every single one I have pulled off that has been on a year or more, is that the sheathing on the uvch always cracks, exposing bare wire.
I know that's what Cody says and it will work, but longer sure makes easier.
I also know there are a few guys running this relay and doing its fine, and I dont doubt it will continue to. I simply wonder if it is as hd as the continuous relay is internally.
Its no doubt between tired gp’s, poor connections and possible back feeding to the relay via the vc plug, that the Trombetta in this situation has seen a major workout
That would be the obvious question that probably wouldn't show up in any fine print, but common sense reasoning might suggest so. Both will work, sure. Even a parts store replacement will, for awhile. The prices listed on Amazon are pretty close between the two...maybe the 684-1221-012 being a a couple or a few dollars more on average.
I have been fighting this oil cooler for the last hour trying to get it to fit back underneath the exhaust manifold and slide back to the front. It will not go. Obviously it has to go back in because it came out, but I swear I've tried every witch away and it just will not slide back through. Any tips?
My stuff runs 30 seconds max here at temps lower than 60 degrees. I set the light timer a bit longer than stock though....10-15 seconds at anything cooler than t-shirt weather.
The biggest issue I see with the dorman harnesses, and this is about every single one I have pulled off that has been on a year or more, is that the sheathing on the uvch always cracks, exposing bare wire.
All right someone needs to explain this to me. Trying to put oil back in so I can turn the motor over and blow all of the oil out of the cylinders, but the oil will not go back in. Not very fast anyway. I'm using a long skinny funnel and I'm just putting it into one of the oil return holes going back to the crankcase and pouring oil. It doesn't take but a little bit of oil and it's full and it takes forever to drain down. It will take me an hour to pour one of these 5 qrt containers. Is there a faster way to add the oil back to the crankcase? I don't want to turn the motor over even by hand until I at least have some oil in it just cuz I don't like the thought. But it's going to take forever to add the oil like this. It's threatening to rain again and I need the truck by tomorrow to get back to work. Is there a better way to add oil back to the crankcase? Or should I slap the glow plugs in and put the valve covers back on and crank it with oil in the cylinders?
edit: oh nevermind. You have the valve covers off.
double edit: it won’t hurt anything to bar it over by hand without oil in the crankcase. But you’re likely wanting more speed with the starter to blow out the oil. For that I’d want oil.
edit: oh nevermind. You have the valve covers off.
Yep, and I don't want to put the valve covers back on until I have the oil out of the cylinders and have the glow plugs in because I don't want to risk scratching up my paint job putting the valve covers on and off. Do you think it would hurt to turn the motor over by hand a full revolution to get the oil out?
It seems we were typing at the same time lol. Turning the motor over by hand will definitely get some of the oil out though. As Long as I get enough out for it to be able to turn over without hydrolocking once I have the valve covers and all back on I will be okay with it. As per Eric's suggestion I have the oil heating up by a heater inside. I would think turning it over by hand would get enough of the oil out to where it would not hydrolock.
You could pull the turbo and dump it down the turbo oil return.
I don't want to add that much time to my day
I've never had my turbo off and it's likely going to be a pain getting it off the first time when I go to put my new turbo on here in a few weeks. I think I'm just going to turn the motor over by hand and get enough of the oil out and go ahead and put everything together. That seems like my best course of action.
I barred the motor over by hand about four or five revolutions and surprisingly no oil shot out. I tried turning it over rather quickly by hand to help it maybe shoot out but nothing came out. This to me says there's more than likely a high chance there's nothing enough in the cylinders to hydrolock. So, what I think I'm going to do is put the glow plugs in, and put the passenger side valve cover on and tighten it. Add oil, and attempt to turn the motor over with the starter with the main engine harness unplugged.