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Cheapest way to make a set of cables will go to your local welding supply place and get welding cable like mentioned before. It's fairly cheap there compared to some of the ones posted and can get ends there also. Just need a crimper to crimp ends on. It's generally high quality cable also.
I just so happened to have ordered a crimper to crimp my lugs onto my cable for my new terminals.
I may do that. I've got to find a welding place in my area first.... They're not a lot of places around here that there should be. Like metal shops, welding shops, machine shops and the like. I'll probably have to drive a hundred miles to a machine shop if I ever have to have my heads worked on. I know of one metal shop near me and I don't know what all they do. Guess I should run by and see. Thanks.
If you are looking to build your own cables, I used the crimper and wire source in the links below. The wire is expensive, but the strand count is high and the quality of copper is superior. Even a 4/0 cable will have a tight bend radius. This is the same supplier I used for the 5th wheel solar, inverter, charge controller, etc install as well.
When dealing with wire, you often get what you pay for. If I look at these wires compared to ones I have bought on Amazon or at parts stores, there is zero comparison. Despite the vast quality difference, often times good enough is good enough. Be cautious about the coating though and make sure it is rated for under hood temperatures like SGX.
You referenced finding a welding shop in your area, an automotive electrical shop like starter and alternator rebuilder will likely have what you need if you decide to go that route.
I didn't record my startup this morning because it ended up being 45°. It was supposed to be cold but, that just shows how accurate the weatherman is. But resting voltage after sitting all night was 12.5, after turning the key and my LED light came on, voltage dropped to 12.3, and the truck fired right off. Voltage drop was to 11.4, hopefully that was all the problem was. I won't know till I get another cold morning. Thanks for all of your help!
Someone else might know better but to me, that voltage drop of .2 tells me you have a problem with your glow plugs. Mine would drop into the 11s when they were lit, back when it used to run.
That does look like a pretty nice cable. Does that include the battery to starter cable as well? From what I can tell it comes with all of the positive cables that are attached to the passenger side battery including the one that goes over to the driver side. Seems like a pretty good deal for a hundred bucks.
If you are looking to build your own cables, I used the crimper and wire source in the links below. The wire is expensive, but the strand count is high and the quality of copper is superior. Even a 4/0 cable will have a tight bend radius. This is the same supplier I used for the 5th wheel solar, inverter, charge controller, etc install as well.
When dealing with wire, you often get what you pay for. If I look at these wires compared to ones I have bought on Amazon or at parts stores, there is zero comparison. Despite the vast quality difference, often times good enough is good enough. Be cautious about the coating though and make sure it is rated for under hood temperatures like SGX.
You referenced finding a welding shop in your area, an automotive electrical shop like starter and alternator rebuilder will likely have what you need if you decide to go that route.
We don't have any automotive electrical shops around here. We don't have any specialty shops like that. Lucky to find a mechanic that doesn't work under a shade tree...... Jk
I ordered a manual crimper just for the time being to put my lugs on my cables for my new terminals with, I will post a link to that. It may not be worth a crap. I just don't want to pay a bunch of money for a crimper that I'm only going to use one time. Are these not any good?
I just don't know if I want to get into making my own battery cables. I kind of want to just buy a set that is plug and play. I may not have to though. I might just replace my positive cables because they don't look great, put new lugs on the ends with my new terminals and I should be good to go I would think?
Someone else might know better but to me, that voltage drop of .2 tells me you have a problem with your glow plugs. Mine would drop into the 11s when they were lit, back when it used to run.
I guess I need to ohm out my glow plugs then. Off to the tech folder to figure out how!
That does look like a pretty nice cable. Does that include the battery to starter cable as well? From what I can tell it comes with all of the positive cables that are attached to the passenger side battery including the one that goes over to the driver side. Seems like a pretty good deal for a hundred bucks.
Yes, it's the complete positive cable assembly for both batteries, including the starter lead.
It's pretty easy, two outer pins on each side of each UVCH connector. I can never remember what you should get for ohms though.
That is essentially what I was getting at. There's a lot of different information on Google about it but for the most part most people say no more than 2 ohms of resistance. Some people say between .1 and 2 and some people say between .6 and 2. I'll get my readings and see what's what.
Yes, it's the complete positive cable assembly for both batteries, including the starter lead.
That's pretty awesome. That may be what I end up doing to be honest. That seems like the quickest, easiest way out and I'll have all new positive cables which is really all I need to my knowledge. I assume they are big enough if you put them on your truck. Thanks for the help!
Well, I got rushed because of rain but, I was able to put my negative lead from my meter on the battery and the positive on the passenger side rear glow plug on the harness. Well I had the harness unplugged but on the valve cover itself, and I couldn't even get my meter to register anything. It just stayed at zero like I wasn't touching anything I should probably check block grounds and find somewhere to park where I can actually get a good couple of minutes to mess with it and get a proper test. I'm supposed to be testing the harness on the valve cover right? Not the harness coming to the valve cover correct?
ohm out the large pins to block aka NEGATIVE side of battery
should be about 1 ohm on each
That's what I thought. I tested that a little while ago and got nothing but, I was also having trouble getting to the pins so, I just happened to have a extra exterior wiring harness. I am going to plug it in which will give me plenty of extension to get to with my meter. I might even crimp some little lens on it and make it an official test tool