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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 09:47 AM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
Did you mean shouldn't get enough in there to cause a problem?

I thought about using a blow nozzle after I removed the gp's. Figures it was actually a good idea.
​​​​​​​yes I meant shouldnt cause issue. Sorry for the type
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 09:47 AM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by Brandonpdx
I bought one of those several years ago from CNC Fab and they sent me the 684-1221-012 as ESwift highlighted. Never installed it though...after 5+ years the Stancor is still working.

Sounds like he might have/had multiple concerns. GP harnesses not fitting right, bad + terminals, possible bad/incorrect GPR, possible batteries getting weak. Starter sounded fine in the video.
I'm never going to buy another doorman gasket/harness. It would have been worth the wait to order it. They had doorman in stock at the auto parts which is why I used it instead of ordering oem.

Starter is mayble a 1.5 yrs old? I can't remember. But, it is a power master 9051 Aftermarket high torque starter.

Actually according to Amazon, I bought it in May of 2021. So over 2 yrs old now. It has been a nice starter. I love how fast the motor turns over. Especially when the motor is hot. It sounds like a new truck. I love it. Awesome starter for the money!

Powermaster 9051 https://a.co/d/eMKSmF8
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 09:51 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by kd5zll
Why not clear it, like some do after injectors? Put the rest of the truck together, return the fuids to the engine, and key the truck over for a few seconds, (i recommend a sheet, or cardboard over the engine, to catch the ejected oil) with the uvch off. Then install plugs, harness, and vc's, and carry on with life.
When I cleared the cylinders of oil after I did my injectors, I just put the valve covers back on with two bolts and turned the motor over.

That is probably what I'm going to have to do. That is kind of what I was suggesting above with putting the cooler, and hpop reservoir back on, adding oil, them turning motor over. I like to do it by hand first though before using the starter. Just my personal preference.

The main reason I didn't want to do that is because I just painted my valve covers and the passenger valve cover is a snug fit getting it in there without scratching it up. Doing that I'm going to have to put the valve covers on and take them back off which is going to entail scratching up my new paint job. I do have some cardboard lying around though, worst case I have to clean the side of the motor and engine Bay a little bit.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 11:39 AM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by Sous
I agree 100% that the Trombetta 012 series relay would be better suited for the application of GPR in the 7.3L, but I also believe that the Trombetta 212 series relay with the 25% duty cycle is also well suited for the application of GPR in the 7.3L. I did quite a bit of reading about relays and duty cycle late last night prior to falling asleep. Most of the documentation I could find was in relation to welding equipment and high amperage relays. Their duty cycle varied quite a bit from 20% - 60% in most cases though and were on a 10 minute timeline.

I don't know exactly how this timeframe figures into the 25% duty cycle of the 212 relay, but I am confident that the relay performs adequately during the GP's being fired for a maximum of two minutes during a cold start.
On trombetta website it says the 25% duty cycle relay is rated for 6 minutes of on time. That gpr would be more then sufficient. Just means after 6 minutes of run time you need to let it cool for 24 minutes before another 6 minute on time cycle.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 11:59 AM
  #140  
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I was curious, why does a glow plug quit working. So I tried to dismantle one of the bad ones. I broke the first one and bent the second one up to the point where it couldn't come apart, it was at that point I realized it's because of how hot the tips got they were not only bulged out but probably fused to the outer casing of the glow plug. But I did notice every bad glow plug was full of oil. Maybe the oil is causing it to have trouble connecting so, I drilled a hole in the seal of one of them and cleaned it out and we're going to see if it works or not. Of course it's not going back in my truck but I'd like to have a few more to play around with for my soldering iron and other ideas that I have. I'm just curious.

The one I broke basically, the rod that goes through the center of the casing basically broken half. But, all the oil came out when that happened so, I kind of half-*** put it back together, and was able to get something out of it even with the broken shaft after removing the oil. So, I'm messing with the one I drilled the hole in the seal with and I'll let you know what I find out!

Edit, having limited success getting the glow plugs to work 100%. Probably not going to mess with it much more, but, once the oil is out of them they do start working a little bit. Which is interesting to say the least.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 01:01 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by Tpayne621
On trombetta website it says the 25% duty cycle relay is rated for 6 minutes of on time. That gpr would be more then sufficient. Just means after 6 minutes of run time you need to let it cool for 24 minutes before another 6 minute on time cycle.
I find it interesting how they break the rating down more for the continuous model vs the %25dc one, like how long it can hold 300 or 400 amps


684-1221-012-02



684-1241-212-02
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 01:03 PM
  #142  
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I don't have much of anything to lube the oil cooler o rings up with other than grease that I use for my ball joints. I would think that would be fine wouldn't it? I don't really have anything else other than penetrating oil or motor oil. I guess I could used some used motor oil.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 01:06 PM
  #143  
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I just used an on hand %25 dc model on a friends truck because his oem one finally failed. I will see how it holds up over time


Another thing to note, is that about all the diesel truck performance companies that offer a trombetta relay(usually marked as a western/fisher plow relay) offer the continuous model and I have never seen the %25dc model sold by any of them
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 03:22 PM
  #144  
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Even if the 25% DC relay was providing reduced amperage after the 25% figure, that would not happen until 1.5 minutes after being energized. This is based on the documentation on the Trombetta website via the PDF specifications sheets.

As stated earlier, many FTE'rs are using the 25% DC relay and have been for quite some time without issues.

10 - 15 seconds of the GPR and GP's being energized should be enough time to start the engine, for a healthy GP system.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 03:40 PM
  #145  
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Living up north in the cold and daily starting in it, I can say that 30-45 seconds to a minute of gp on time makes for way nicer smoother starting
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 03:56 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by ESwift
Living up north in the cold and daily starting in it, I can say that 30-45 seconds to a minute of gp on time makes for way nicer smoother starting
I agree with you 100% sir, just as I did with Brandonpdx concerning some of the details pertaining to the GPR choices we have.

Either way, the 25% DC Trombetta brought to our attention a few years ago as an optional replacement to the OEM or Stancor/WR relay would provide 100% amperage for those 30 - 45 seconds and up to 90 seconds.

Just for clarification sake, the well known FTE'r that has said that 10 - 15 seconds of energizing the GPR and GP's is all that is required lives in one of the northern most states in the lower 48.

If I ever need to replace my Trombetta GPR and decide not to use the IAH relay, I will select the 100% DC continuous duty Trombetta.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 04:02 PM
  #147  
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I know that's what Cody says and it will work, but longer sure makes easier.
I also know there are a few guys running this relay and doing its fine, and I dont doubt it will continue to. I simply wonder if it is as hd as the continuous relay is internally.
Its no doubt between tired gp’s, poor connections and possible back feeding to the relay via the vc plug, that the Trombetta in this situation has seen a major workout
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 04:30 PM
  #148  
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Unfortunately it has been raining for 3/4 of the day so I had to do things that I could do inside the trailer. I assembled my oil cooler. Using a ratchet strap and a dead blow it went pretty smooth once I got the strap set in place properly and since I won't be able to put anything on today because it's going to rain for the rest of the day, I figured I'd go ahead and touch up paint where the strap handle dug in just a tad. I won't be able to put anything together till tomorrow. It's not supposed to rain tonight but, I dislike working in the dark. I might work under the hood of the truck and get my hpop reservoir put back on at least if it quits raining early enough. Other than that I'm pretty much put off till tomorrow. Can't wait to see how my motor looks with all the painted parts!
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 08:35 PM
  #149  
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Got my hpop reservoir on at least.


 
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Old Nov 20, 2022 | 08:22 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
I'm never going to buy another doorman gasket/harness. It would have been worth the wait to order it. They had doorman in stock at the auto parts which is why I used it instead of ordering oem.

Starter is mayble a 1.5 yrs old? I can't remember. But, it is a power master 9051 Aftermarket high torque starter.

Actually according to Amazon, I bought it in May of 2021. So over 2 yrs old now. It has been a nice starter. I love how fast the motor turns over. Especially when the motor is hot. It sounds like a new truck. I love it. Awesome starter for the money!

Powermaster 9051 https://a.co/d/eMKSmF8
Funny, I always heard the Dorman VC/UVCH was the way to go, counterintuitive as that sounds. I am pretty sure I have at least one on mine from when I took the truck to a shop back in 2017 when I first owned it. Driver's side I think I have never gone back in there since.

Starter has good reviews...90% gave it either 4 or 5 stars after 200+ reviews and some were just gripes about a bolt being hard to get to.
 
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