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I'm stumped, too. If I knew ANYTHING about your truck I could probably help. All I know is that it has an E4OD. I need year, model, and engine to be of any help.
What year truck. You are getting two digit fault codes so is that what you got before the PCM was replaced? What someone can verify that you got the correct computer if you post the calibration code and the part number you installed or was it determined to be correct from your other post? I have no idea what was done up to this point without trying to find and read your previous thread. That is why you should keep everything in the same thread.
As I understand it, I’d say you don’t have power to the transmission.
I'm stumped, too. If I knew ANYTHING about your truck I could probably help. All I know is that it has an E4OD. I need year, model, and engine to be of any help.
What year truck. You are getting two digit fault codes so is that what you got before the PCM was replaced? What someone can verify that you got the correct computer if you post the calibration code and the part number you installed or was it determined to be correct from your other post? I have no idea what was done up to this point without trying to find and read your previous thread. That is why you should keep everything in the same thread.
As I understand it, I’d say you don’t have power to the transmission.
im going to get connector cleaner and some dip electric grease to help support connections but I just realized I never checked power on the passenger plug. I’m going to feel so dumb if that was the problem. I got the pcm that’s in it now from rock auto. I had one from a 92 f150 from eBay, but I went for this Bc it was a different casing. I can supply part number a little later. What pin from eec is sig return?
Okay, I was able to get under clean and grease all plugs. Same issue. I tested the red on passenger side and it showed 25.8v? On V20 setting. (Sorry I’m aggravatingly new to the multimeter)
As far as I am understanding, Manual Low (1-2) and Reverse are mechanical gears and should always be able to work with truck on.
what’s confusing me is the new only starts in neutral problem. It started in park fine before repinning. I am going to try repinning the plug and see if I did it backwards (looking at the plug from the back versus the front. In this diagram, it should be from the face of the plug correct?
As far as I am understanding, Manual Low (1-2) and Reverse are mechanical gears and should always be able to work with truck on.
what’s confusing me is the new only starts in neutral problem. It started in park fine before repinning. I am going to try repinning the plug and see if I did it backwards (looking at the plug from the back versus the front. In this diagram, it should be from the face of the plug correct?
Is your shift cable properly adjusted so that in park its not pushing on the lever or holding it off the detent (or the reverse, I cant visualize it with confidence atm lol)
Okay, I was able to get under clean and grease all plugs. Same issue. I tested the red on passenger side and it showed 25.8v? On V20 setting. (Sorry I’m aggravatingly new to the multimeter)
Yeah. That’s not right. No way you got a reading of 25V from a 12V system. Was it 2.58 volts?
Originally Posted by JustGotThisOldTruck
As far as I am understanding, Manual Low (1-2) and Reverse are mechanical gears and should always be able to work with truck on.
what’s confusing me is the new only starts in neutral problem. It started in park fine before repinning. I am going to try repinning the plug and see if I did it backwards (looking at the plug from the back versus the front. In this diagram, it should be from the face of the plug correct?
That is looking at the pins on the connector. The wires would be on the other side. Wouldn’t hurt to double check to make sure they are in the right place and that they are fully seated.
Not starting in PARK sounds like the MLPS. Did you line up the marks on the MLPS when you installed it? You should be able to find a picture showing the resistance readings for each gear position. That will help verify you have it set right.
Originally Posted by ABR3
Get rid of it and buy something with a C4 or C6 tranny and no stooopid computers,sensors,and electronics lol
Terrible advice. Also no overdrive with those transmissions. Don’t let the big scary ‘lectronics scare you.
If I had the money to replace the trans with anything I wouldn’t be spending hours scouring the internet for wiring diagrams.
Well…ABR3 is scared of computer controls. He removed the EFI and installed a carburetor on his truck. I believe Auroragirl was making a joke. The GM Powerglide is a 2 speed automatic. There is no reason to abandon ship. I still think your original problem is no power which is why the OD cancel switch does not work and the trans is in limp-in mode. This was from a thread about a ‘91 diesel but hopefully close enough to help.
I read a thread in the full size van forum where Mark said that power to the OD cancel switch comes from fuse 20 on the interior fuse panel. Keep in mind that it might be a different fuse on your truck. Hopefully someone can post wiring diagrams for your truck. You will have to be more proficient at using the DVOM to find the problem. Unfortunately you might have introduced more problems by doing the shift kit.
Well…ABR3 is scared of computer controls. He removed the EFI and installed a carburetor on his truck. I believe Auroragirl was making a joke. The GM Powerglide is a 2 speed automatic. There is no reason to abandon ship. I still think your original problem is no power which is why the OD cancel switch does not work and the trans is in limp-in mode. This was from a thread about a ‘91 diesel but hopefully close enough to help.
I read a thread in the full size van forum where Mark said that power to the OD cancel switch comes from fuse 20 on the interior fuse panel. Keep in mind that it might be a different fuse on your truck. Hopefully someone can post wiring diagrams for your truck. You will have to be more proficient at using the DVOM to find the problem. Unfortunately you might have introduced more problems by doing the shift kit.
🤣 sorry I was also, just saying I’m not in a position to be swapping trans atm. Thankyou for the guidance here. I’m going to test continuity in the relay today, and finish requiring harness. I’ll update soon. Thanks everyone.
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Don’t let the big scary ‘lectronics scare you.
