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I have a 94 E350 with the 5.8 and E4od trans. The main issue I am having is the thing will just go into neutral driving down the road. It only happens for about a second. The engine revs up and I back out of the throttle and it will hook back up. It sometimes does it as it is shifting up through the gears. It also sometimes does a real hard 1-2 shift and sometimes downshifts when there is really no need. I took it to get the codes read today and there was nothing. I am sure this is an electronic issue and I need some guidance. It is so frustrating and I baby the thing all the time because I don't want to be hard on the throttle when it loses drive.
It's the MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor.) Sometimes it's called the TRS (Transmission Range Sensor,) and sometimes the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch.) When it starts to fail it will intermittently cause a shift to neutral for a second or so, then it may work fine for 500 miles and do it again. This won't set a code.
Replace it and I'll bet your problem will be solved.
Mounted on the outside of the trans, on driver's side, it fits around the shaft that the shift linkage hooks up to. We probably have the same part, 1994 with 5.8L and E4OD, except I have a Bronco.
I believe 1994 was the last year of the MLPS that has the connector on the top. Some new ones require re-pinning the connector to fit a new improved MLPS that has the connector facing out sideways. At least that is what I have heard from people who have done it on 1994 Broncos. The new MLPS comes with instructions and any needed parts to do it, so I have heard.
I still have the original MLPS, though I might change it out with some extremely intermittent problems I have been having:
You can quickly look the part up on Rockauto.com, look for it under the heading "Electrical-Switch & Relay", they call the MLPS a "Neutral Safety Switch/Range Sensor".
Have one on order and should be here before noon. Work called so I won't be able to pick it up today, but will tomorrow and install it immediately. I so hope this is it. I just wish I had posted here a year ago about this.
Trip got cancelled so I picked it up and got it installed. It will take a while of driving to see for sure if the problem has disappeared. The bolt holes are more like slots and you are able to rotate the sensor around the shaft some. The instructions didn't mention anything, but does this need to be adjusted or calibrated a certain way?
......The bolt holes are more like slots and you are able to rotate the sensor around the shaft some. The instructions didn't mention anything, but does this need to be adjusted or calibrated a certain way?
I think we got this
Yes, it needs to be adjusted. 1994 shop manual says trans in NEUTRAL (so p-brake on, block wheels), with the lever nut removed, and the two MLPS mounting bolts loosened, use tool T92P-70010-AH to align the MLPS. Then tighten the two bolts to 7-9 ft.lb., then install the lever retaining nut and tighten to 12-16 ft.lb.
I remember seeing an odd mark molded into the MLPS cover... so googled the tool #, and found...
Look at this to see what the "tool" looks like. Note the nubs on it:
Then Google the tool # --> t92p700101h and look for this result:
[DOC]TRS_replacement.doc http://www.taurusclub.com/.../54070d...cal-pblms-trs_...
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED. Description. Tool Number. Transmission Range (TR) Sensor (MLPS) Alignment Tool. T92P-70010-AH ...
and in Google, click on that result. I could not link it to here no matter how I tried.
Once you have the Word doc open, look to see how to use the tool. There is a drawing of it in use, the nubs on each side of the tool's slot, engage the slots on the MLPS's shaft sleeve, and the body of the tool has it's other nub into that molded in mark on the MLPS case. With those two pics, you can just carefully line up the slots on the sleeve with the alignment mark on the MLPS case.
Question: Did you have to rewire your harness end to fit the new MLPS?
EDIT: I see looking at some of the MLPS on Rockauto, that some of them also have a little snitch mark on the sleeve in one place, and a short alignment line on the case right across from the sleeve's snitch mark. Looks like if you line up the snitch with the line, then the tool marks align also. So it looks like the aftermarket folks marked them so no special alignment tool was needed. Oh well, I learned something!
With the parking brake on and the wheels block put the trans in neutral. With the nut removed and the mounting bolts loose align the mark on the inner rotating part with the alignment mark on the shell of the sensor. Tighten the mounting bolts, install the nut, and you're done.
Thanks everyone for the help with this. I will need to align those marks as mentioned and it sounds pretty easy to do.
I did have to move the pins from the old connector to the new one which was a little worrisome, but in the end wasn't a big deal at all. I just made sure to write down the colors and positions to be sure and I double checked things too.
I talked to several transmission shops and I am not confident any of them would have been able to figure this out. They wanted to drop the pan and were talking about a circlip coming loose, or maybe they just wanted to run the bill up by doing other things that would have no bearing on the outcome.
I got the adjustment done and haven't driven it yet, but I did start it just to check. One thing I did notice was the van started much faster than usual. One thing I never liked about the van was it took a long time cranking on it before it started. I don't know if it was just a fluke or what, but with more time I will know if I got an added side benefit to this sensor replacement.