Is CP4 still a problem?
I would highly recommend extreme caution and research this product thoroughly since it uses iron as it's catalyst. Not sure what this iron content does for CP4 and injector wear and perhaps it's completely harmless, but we do know if shows up as elevated iron in a UOA which triggered some to stop using it.
I'm 0 and 2 when it comes to the collective opinion here but no worries. I respect the other side of the conversation though...
Next year I'd like to get a 5 inch DPF back exhaust pipe put on (for looks only -- love the look of a beefy 5 inch tailpipe). I may have to buy a cheap engine inspection camera system from Harbor Freight to take a look at the honeycomb of the DPF soot filter to see if it has that reddish brown (lighter) color from the use of the FBC that they show on Pittsburgh Power's website. They also offer a DPF cleaning service which I will consider when it's time for my DPF.
I've been using Pittsburgh Power's Max Mileage FBC, which is a big truck shop, and is a rebranded Better Diesel FBC. My last UOA came back normal for iron content... My upcoming oil change at 3k or so (ish...) Will also be sent in for an analysis... It's Triax so I'll see what they say about that... I'm realizing Triax is probably not the super oil they make it out to be but that's for another discussion.
I'm 0 and 2 when it comes to the collective opinion here but no worries. I respect the other side of the conversation though...
Next year I'd like to get a 5 inch DPF back exhaust pipe put on (for looks only -- love the look of a beefy 5 inch tailpipe). I may have to buy a cheap engine inspection camera system from Harbor Freight to take a look at the honeycomb of the DPF soot filter to see if it has that reddish brown (lighter) color from the use of the FBC that they show on Pittsburgh Power's website. They also offer a DPF cleaning service which I will consider when it's time for my DPF.
I'm 0 and 2 when it comes to the collective opinion here but no worries. I respect the other side of the conversation though...
Next year I'd like to get a 5 inch DPF back exhaust pipe put on (for looks only -- love the look of a beefy 5 inch tailpipe). I may have to buy a cheap engine inspection camera system from Harbor Freight to take a look at the honeycomb of the DPF soot filter to see if it has that reddish brown (lighter) color from the use of the FBC that they show on Pittsburgh Power's website. They also offer a DPF cleaning service which I will consider when it's time for my DPF.
I started using Hot Shots EDT earlier this year. I’m about to switch over to the winter blend. I used OptiLube XPD before this and only switched due to less cost. I also use Better Diesel FBC in every tank.
As far as what it’s doing… well, I hope it’s helping. It makes me feel better anyway!
As far as what it’s doing… well, I hope it’s helping. It makes me feel better anyway!
I use the same. Don't know if its snake oil or not but cheap enough to use. One bottle will last me 6 months.
I learned on another thread (this forum) that the US standard for ULSD is a scar rating of 520. Reviewing the Bosch manual for the CP4.2 that fuel with a scar rating of 500 or lower is required. I’m quoting these numbers from memory, so excuse any error, but the point remains: Bosch recommends fuel with better lubricity than we have in the US. That’s why I use Stanadyne Lubricity formula with every tank. I’ve seen independent tests that rates it near the top for lubricity improvement.
To me all this says “shame on Ford” for using a component that is seemingly incompatible with US fuel.
With all that said I just don’t like the Chevy or RAM trucks and Toyota doesn’t make an HD truck. So far so good with my F350 at 49K (mostly towing) miles.
To me all this says “shame on Ford” for using a component that is seemingly incompatible with US fuel.
With all that said I just don’t like the Chevy or RAM trucks and Toyota doesn’t make an HD truck. So far so good with my F350 at 49K (mostly towing) miles.
When a Ford tech evaluates a failed CP4.2 it's not trivial to identify contaminated fuel (smells like gas), rust on internal pump parts, or DEF crystals on the fuel filter to void the warranty.
I've been using Pittsburgh Power's Max Mileage FBC, which is a big truck shop, and is a rebranded Better Diesel FBC. My last UOA came back normal for iron content... My upcoming oil change at 3k or so (ish...) Will also be sent in for an analysis... It's Triax so I'll see what they say about that... I'm realizing Triax is probably not the super oil they make it out to be but that's for another discussion.
I'm 0 and 2 when it comes to the collective opinion here but no worries. I respect the other side of the conversation though...
Next year I'd like to get a 5 inch DPF back exhaust pipe put on (for looks only -- love the look of a beefy 5 inch tailpipe). I may have to buy a cheap engine inspection camera system from Harbor Freight to take a look at the honeycomb of the DPF soot filter to see if it has that reddish brown (lighter) color from the use of the FBC that they show on Pittsburgh Power's website. They also offer a DPF cleaning service which I will consider when it's time for my DPF.
I'm 0 and 2 when it comes to the collective opinion here but no worries. I respect the other side of the conversation though...
Next year I'd like to get a 5 inch DPF back exhaust pipe put on (for looks only -- love the look of a beefy 5 inch tailpipe). I may have to buy a cheap engine inspection camera system from Harbor Freight to take a look at the honeycomb of the DPF soot filter to see if it has that reddish brown (lighter) color from the use of the FBC that they show on Pittsburgh Power's website. They also offer a DPF cleaning service which I will consider when it's time for my DPF.
Just had an "issue" recently... I just got done fueling up, started the truck back up and immediately got a "Low Oil Pressure" warning... my heart dropped...I drove to the closet auto parts store, not far away, shut her off. I checked the oil and it was low on the stick but definitely on the stick at the lower notch. I bought a gallon of oil T4 10w30 and put in a quart. That put it halfway in the cross hatched area. I'm kind of pissed because I was going to have the oil analyzed and may still on this upcoming oil change... The warning still came back on but was relieved it wasn't because the oil was way low.
I looked online and found this is a common problem with the 6.7 Powerstroke. I bought a new oil pressure sensor switch but haven't put it in yet. It went on and off for a few days but is now off. I bought the Carquest one that has the lifetime warranty... I was going to go with the Motorcraft one but decided on the lifetime warranty instead. I'm now convinced that it was an electrical gremlin (the sensor itself) and not the lower oil level as that's not low enough in opinion to bring on the sensor... especially since it still came on after the quart was added and was very intermittent also.
Good to see you guys are catching on to Triax... 
Also a bit of caution with Schaeffer's that it would produce high lead content in UOA's for the 7.3 PSD and the 6.0 PSD years ago. Obviously, that was with the API CI4+ oils but never did trust that brand since.

Also a bit of caution with Schaeffer's that it would produce high lead content in UOA's for the 7.3 PSD and the 6.0 PSD years ago. Obviously, that was with the API CI4+ oils but never did trust that brand since.
This is why I stick to big companies that have deep pockets for R&D. I was glad to see Mobil Extreme 15w-40 synthetic finally make the approved oil list, my UOAs for that oil on my 250K mile 6.0 have been beyond stellar, iron never above 7ppm using 5k intervals. It also has a very healthy dose of anti-wear additives, my favorite 15w-40 oil by far. Of course for the 6.7 I would prefer/use a 5w-40, best of all worlds with 5w-40.
This is why I stick to big companies that have deep pockets for R&D. I was glad to see Mobil Extreme 15w-40 synthetic finally make the approved oil list, my UOAs for that oil on my 250K mile 6.0 have been beyond stellar, iron never above 7ppm using 5k intervals. It also has a very healthy dose of anti-wear additives, my favorite 15w-40 oil by far. Of course for the 6.7 I would prefer/use a 5w-40, best of all worlds with 5w-40.













