this was done already by the farm guy on YouTube.


he mixed up some k1000, fuel, water, and tried to run a lawn mower and the lawn mower choked. Conclusion is there are more unknown variables to duplicate the producers of k1000 claims.

for example…mix 16oz per 30 gallons of fuel and you will have protection for up to ? Oz of water….is the ? 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, 1/oz?

the farm guy mix 1 oz of k1000 to 1 qt of fuel and added 1 oz of water and the engine choked.

so for example, if he would have put 1 teaspoon of k1000 in an empty qt jar and added 1 teaspoon of water to the jar with the 1 teaspoon of k1000, then added 1 get of fuel…it probally would not choke the engine.

in other words…we do not know the conditions to duplicate optimal results and we do not know who operates them next those conditions.

I think k1000 does do something positive …but….I am not sure if the recommended use dosage can translate to a demonstration that can be done in a lab.

some additives make claims of adding lube, preventing rust, preventing gelling, preventing foaming, boosting octane, etc, all in one bottle. How can this be validated in a lab type demo?

in for all these additives but keep in mind there are different culprits and some additives only marginally improve select fuel problems.


I like the idea that k1000 can break down water at the molecular level..,.that means k1000 can turn water into free hydrogen and free oxygen and both burn …..so can I just add k1000 and straight water to my tank and run the hydrogen/oxygen mix?

I don’t know how k1000 works, I bought some and played around with it, but couldn’t lab demo straight anything.


I think the only useful info out there a bought fuel additives is the 2007 lab study that measure the wear scar of fuel additive mixes and rated them. Some of the “I use this” or “I use that” scored very low. Opti lube for example came in second behind 2.5% bio fuel with the smallest wear scar. Someone needs to do anoth wear scar test using modern products .

 

I did see that one. I'm giving the benefit of the doubt that it was Gasoline and K100 instead of Diesel and K100D+ that Overkill2 uses.

In the farm guy's tests phase separation still occurred, so the water separators would still work. Calling them water separators is kind of a misnomer from the application in which they're used. They're really arrestors for whatever solution is at the bottom of phase separation, it doesn't have to be water.

Anyway, that's why I'm curious if the Diesel and K100D+ does actually prevent phase separation or not. If it doesn't, whatever. If it does, then the question is what is the lubricity of the Diesel + K100D+ + Water solution compared to just ULSD. If it's worse, then adding K100D+ is doing more harm than good, if it's better then it's better.

Your point about up to ? % of water is absolutely valid.

 

I was waiting for fritz to respond as I knew he bought some K100 to play around with. I think an important point to mention here is that some expressed concern in this thread that K100 contains alcohol which if it was an alcohol like isopropyl or something like that, then there would obviously be a big problem in not only the HPFP but the injectors as well. Do research and one can see there's a schitt ton of different alcoholic compounds. I bring this up because this very subject has been discussed here before.

As to the test that the farm guy performed, what if he would have treated the gas he was using first, then go at a 1:1 ratio with the water/K100? How fresh was the gas he was using? As one can see and like fritz mentioned, there's many variables at play. Is this guy on the up and up? Is he being sponsored by another additive company on the sly? This has to be said because there are many dishonest people out there, especially on the internet that do things for the almighty dollar. With all that said, I'm not saying he's not honest and didn't do an honest test. We just can't prove that he in fact did.

As to lab testing diesel fuel, I have thought about sending in samples of fuel where I buy mine usually, a local car wash chain here in WNY, with three samples; untreated, sample with summer dose and a sample treated with winter dose (double the summer dose). But I know that can't be cheap...

As to that lubricity test fritz references, I'd love to see it again with K100D+ included. But a test like that cannot be cheap.

Just did a search for "diesel fuel acceptable water spec." Found these:

https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog...l%20efficiency.

It won't let me copy and paste... go the contaminates: water. It says, paraphrasing here, "saturation points: standard 50 - 75 ppm water content and biodiesel approximately 500 ppm."


https://www.cenex.com/~/media/cenex/...el%20fuel.ashx


https://www.donaldson.com/en-us/bulk...iesel-engines/

Forms of Water in Diesel

All diesel contains some percentage of dissolved water. The water molecules remain part of the fuel until there are too many of them. The point at which the fuel can hold no more water is called the saturation point. The quantity of water in fuel is measured in ppm (parts per million). As long as the water stays below the saturation point as dissolved water it is typically not too much of an issue. Significant problems start when water separates from diesel and becomes free or emulsified water. Emulsified water is another form of free water; the droplets are simply so small as so well mixed into the fuel that they remain suspended rather than dropping to the bottom. There are no "droplets" when water is fully dissolved in fuel.

How Does Water Get into Fuel?

Water can come from a wide variety of sources, some of which can be extremely difficult to control.

• On delivery from supplier
• Free water fall-out (beyond saturation point)
• Condensation in tank
• Leakage into tank (rain, pressure washing, ground water...)
• Ingress from atmosphere (humidity)
• Human error (unprotected vents, fill ports, seals...) ​

How Much Water is Ok?

The easiest answer would be none. But this is neither practical nor realistic. All diesel contains some percentage of water. The most important thing is to keep the water below its saturation point so that it stays dissolved rather than entering your equipment as free water. Equipment manufacturers specify that zero free water must reach the engine. Saturation points vary from roughly 50 ppm to 1800 ppm based on temperature and on the petro diesel/biodiesel ratio. As you can see on the chart, biodiesel can hold significantly more water in saturation than than its petro equivalent. Blending bio and petro diesel together, however, does not result in a mathematically proportional moisture content. The blend will hold less in solution that the sum of the parts, meaning that free water precipitation may occur when the two are mixed.

Removing Water from Fuel

Water removal is easier in regions with over 500 ppm sulfur diesel than it is with ULSD (under 15ppm sulfur). The filter skid to the left, for example, was designed for use in South Africa, where it is quite effective. Coalescers and water separators function much more effectively in higher sulfur fuels. This is because higher sulfur diesel needs much less additive and, subsequently, contains far less surfactant.

Surfactant is a soapy substance that coats over coalescing/water separating medias, severely compromising their performance.

The increased amount of surfactant in ULSD disables coalescing media, rendering its effectiveness questionable at best.



Posted for information. I have seen the spec for the acceptable limit of water in diesel fuel. It's in the second link I posted... 0.05% for water and sentiment..

 

During the early days of CP4.2 failures additives were discussed to the point of nausea and ultimately is was agreed to that if a fuel additive was to be used that the additive needed to perform as a demulsifier which promote the fuel filter/water separator to work at it's best at rejecting water and keeping it in the filter bowl. During that period some phone calls were made to the additive companies and the one that responded was Power Service and they stated that their Diesel Kleen product had demulsifier additives. The Power Service 911 formula has an emulsifier additive which could be bad for your pump. Having said that this was the original reason I choose the Diesel Kleen product it I were to use one.

 

thanks for the explanation

so a question comes to mind….if you are using a de-emulsifier….which is supposed to take the water out…have you ever found water in the sump drain?

thanks

 

A few times mostly small droplets, but did have 2 significant times with water just after Katrina that flooded the gulf coast. I can't say I was using an additive during those periods or not.

 

Looks like Hot Shot secrets is blended with demusiliers as well.

How Does Water Get Into Diesel Fuel? (hotshotsecret.com)

 

This caught my attention and didn't even consider it before
What destroys a CP4 quickly? Rust, Corrosion. Anything to help prevent this goes a long way in my book.

 

A few years ago when I first came across the Hot Shot Secret brand I kind of blew it off because the name is just cheesy. The more I've learned about their products though, it's the real deal and it's now my go-to.

 

I have been viewing my requested high pressure vs my actual high pressure…the results were almost exact…initially thought that this means my cp4 is functioning as new ….but…then I remembered the metering valve …so come to the conclusion these numbers are not as insightful as one would hope.

 

Yep, I don't remember if I was part of all of them, doubt it, but the reaction to my choice was the same as it is now.

I did a post way back on emulsifiers versus demulsifiers... Except now I'm corrected. K100 is not a emulsifier because it chemically combines with water and it will not fall out of solution. The wonders of modern chemistry. Petroleum will not mix with water so I can see how they use them as demulsifiers. Don't look to me for an explanation because I sure ain't no chemist. And I sure don't know exactly what's in it but even if I did, I wouldn't know how it all works. Like I've said before, I put this up for info purposes only.

What causes rust and corrosion? Water... eliminate the water and you eliminate the rust and corrosion. Eliminate the water and you also eliminate the "bugs" that use it.

 

I was at Tractor Supply Company today purchasing some DEF and saw the Hot Shot EDT fuel additive. Out of curiosity I purchased some since it supposedly treat 400 gallons.

Chris the owner of Hot Shot Secret originally spent time on the 6.0 forum trying to sell his product Stiction Eliminator to address 6.0PSD injector problems. Many on that forum argued that it was snake oil and eventually he abandoned FTE to push his product. Since then Hot Shot Secrets has really expanded to all kinds of additives.

 

I started using Hot Shots EDT earlier this year. I’m about to switch over to the winter blend. I used OptiLube XPD before this and only switched due to less cost. I also use Better Diesel FBC in every tank.

As far as what it’s doing… well, I hope it’s helping. It makes me feel better anyway!

 

Problem I have with Hot Shots Secret is refilling the small bottle from the gallon jug.

 

I would highly recommend extreme caution and research this product thoroughly since it uses iron as it's catalyst. Not sure what this iron content does for CP4 and injector wear and perhaps it's completely harmless, but we do know if shows up as elevated iron in a UOA which triggered some to stop using it.