Is CP4 still a problem?
So what are the contributing factors. Why does one pump with additives die at 50,000 miles and others run no additives and get 500,000 miles?
Are some guys just lucky enough to run Exxon/Mobile fuel and not need the additives? Based on Speed Lake's latest additve test. It appears that Exxon fuel( and some others ) have no need for additives
Others buy fuel from companies that produce only the Federal minimum.How many of the failuires were Lessor qualitiy fuel?
How many failures are due to DEF, GAS or Water in the fuel?
Do trucks in high humidty zones get more water in the fuel and have a higher failure rate? Would draining the water seperator more frequently help?
What about fuel from areas that don't get winterized as much as cold northern state? If you gell up, there is no fuel to lubricate the CP4. There always seems to be lot of failures after a hard freeze in the south.
What about High Alcohol products like Diesel 911 that somebody uses after Gelling up. What damage does Alcohol cause? It has no lubrication and actually strips lubrication
The actual additive in a fuel additives is a very small percentage. The rest of the additive is a carrier fluid. When people double or triple dose their fuel. What effect does that excess carrier fluid have? Another issue that Speed Lake mentions in his additive test. Use at the reccomened dosage, Don't double or triple does, More is not neccessarily better.
The list goes on and on, as What could cause these failures. I'm not believing it's all Bosch's fault. Ford builds 28,000 to 32,000 Superduties a month for the past 17 years, Thats over 6 million trucks. And no idea what the split between diesel vs gas.is. But you are probably looking at 4 million plus diesel trucks with CP4 pumps having been built.
I know two people who have had CP4 fail. First person's pump failed at 110,000 miles and he had never changed his fuel filters. Didn't know he even had them. Treated the truck like the gas truck he owned before.
Second owner traveling cross country and pulled in a BP station and just grabbed the Green Handle like he did at home and filled the tank with Gas.
I would think choice of additive would also be a factor because as shown, not all additives provide above average lubricity to fuel.
As to fuel itself, I do not have high expectations of the fuel I get here in my home state of New York because we all know fuel bought around the country is not the same... I'm thinking cetane but obviously there's more to it than just that.
Trucks in cold winter areas will get affected when it comes in water in fuel as well as the warmed return fuel heats up the tank and the cold outside air meets the tank walls forming condensation which will make it into the fuel.
And the alcohol topic, there is such a thing as "bad" alcohol, meaning providing zero lubrication for the CP4 and "good" compounds containing alcohol (there are literally HUNDREDS of compounds that contain alcohol) that do or rather do not affect the lubricity of fuel. I do not know how to correctly explain this as I'm no fuel additive expert nor a chemist.
As to overdosing with additives, I believe IMO that depends on the additive and its function.
The owner of the 922k mile 17 6.7s CP4, which was original, came out in like new condition. He used PM22 *whatever the Motorcraft additive was and the additive that the makers of the Insane Diesel bypass filter market, and he always overdosed he stated...
I'd agree to the owner error of adding DEF or gasoline to the tank as contributing to possibly the majority of CP4 failures, but we will never know the exact numbers of legit failures, meaning ones who did all the proper maintenance and checked for water (or not) while not using additives (or used additives)... there are many, many different factors and situations I will acknowledge but to trust that the CP4 will not fail in the truck you drive which IMO, and like I've stated before, being the victim of a crime, <<<will NOT happen, is a little too trusting for my personal taste.
As always, YMMV and not everyone see this the same. I guess I like to be prepped and ready in case Mr. Murphy raises his ugly head.
Won't guarantee a half a million miles trouble free but will help.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
https://youtu.be/s4FtN6lK9kw?si=pMu1VyrDmaRI1794
Or, is just changing the oil and filter every 4k to 5k miles, and change the fuel filter every 10k miles the best way ?
If the truck has the DCR conversion installed and emissions deleted are these bypass oil filters a waste of money ?
Or, is just changing the oil and filter every 4k to 5k miles, and change the fuel filter every 10k miles the best way ?
If the truck has the DCR conversion installed and emissions deleted are these bypass oil filters a waste of money ?
The truck in that video was stock. He used Insane Diesel's fuel additive and Motorcraft PM22 IIRC, and overdosed the additives. His CP4 came out in like new condition which IMO, speaks to the regular use of fuel additives which add lubricity and IMO, is a fuel cleaner as well.
I'm on my phone now and cannot see what year your truck is if you have a signature. If you use a oil bypass, theres no need to go 4k to 5k miles on oil. Even without a bypass, I don't believe it's necessary if you driving the truck a lot but if the truck sits, no matter the mileage, change out the oil and filter yearly..
But I'm not telling anyone when to change their oil... opinions and comfort levels differ on this just like they do with fuel additives.
If the truck is deleted and the DCR conversion is done, the oil bypass is up to you.... sure it will get some soot out but not all because soot gets down to the sub micron size... but what the bypass will do is get wear particles out of the oil to a level where the full flow oil filters cannot... there's a reason Derek's, the owner, engine went that many miles and I believe the Insane Diesel bypass helped, along with good maintenance and smart driving habits... but opinions on this will vary.
As to a DCR, I would still run my additives, for added cetane as well as fuel cleaner, if my truck ever needed one. I'm only going on 153k miles, so time will tell. I use additives every tank... opinions vary on fuel additives as well.
I've been sending oil samples off each oil change and have pushed my oil changes up to 10,000 miles. My oil samples are showing the oil is doing OK at 10,000 miles and I could go farther. I'm not willing to go farther,
I think you need to balance to Pro's vs the cost. The oil samples have allowed me to skip every other change. ( 10k vd 5k changes) That saves $130 per oil change and the oil sample was costing me $30, ( I think they have gone up to $40) So I'm $70-$80 per oil change ahead. The bypass filter kit is $650 plus install and filters are double the cost. I'm not sure for me, I can save enough to justify the cost.
At my age, I don't have a million miles left. But I would like my truck to go at least 300,000 maybe 400,000 miles. Each owner needs to make a similar decision.
Myself, I really think I will spend more money on front end parts, brakes, shocks, and electronics, than I will on engine repairs to get to 400,000 miles
Last edited by Painted Horse; Apr 30, 2026 at 09:52 AM.
I've been sending oil samples off each oil change and have pushed my oil changes up to 10,000 miles. My oil samples are showing the oil is doing OK at 10,000 miles and I could go farther. I'm not willing to go farther,
I think you need to balance to Pro's vs the cost. The oil samples have allowed me to skip every other change. ( 10k vd 5k changes) That saves $130 per oil change and the oil sample was costing me $30, ( I think they have gone up to $40) So I'm $70-$80 per oil change ahead. The bypass filter kit is $650 plus install and filters are double the cost. I'm not sure for me, I can save enough to justify the cost.
At my age, I don't have a million miles left. But I would like my truck to go at least 300,000 maybe 400,000 miles. Each owner needs to make a similar decision.
Myself, I really think I will spend more money on front end parts, brakes, shocks, and electronics, than I will on engine repairs to get to 400,000 miles
My '16' 6.7 only has 84,000+/- miles, of those 45,000+/- have been pulling the 16k+ 5th wheel in the west. I like to think it gets a good work out to clean the engine some. I'll use Hot Shot EDT 1-2 oz every fill up. Use Rotella T6 every 7,000 miles (when truck shows change is needed). Changed the CP4 out to the DCR roughly 2 years ago when replacing the turbo for the occasional over boost condition. Truck seems to run like a charm climbing mountain grades holding speed with slow speed increase if I lock out OD before the base of the mountain grade. I don't see trading or replacing it unless something unforseen happens.
Now my '21' 7.3 Godzilla has 256,000+ miles on it and figure by end of year be near 300,000 miles. If it stays running like it does now with no oil consumption, oil samples sent into Blackstone come back excellent. I'll decide if it will keep racking up miles or drop another engine in it. I really want to see what it will go to but might be an inconvenience if something happens while traveling for work. Leaning towards keep going.
You notice in that video it's all about maintenance and changing parts as needed for longevity. It did appear he needed a seat in the truck though.
I've been sending oil samples off each oil change and have pushed my oil changes up to 10,000 miles. My oil samples are showing the oil is doing OK at 10,000 miles and I could go farther. I'm not willing to go farther,
I think you need to balance to Pro's vs the cost. The oil samples have allowed me to skip every other change. ( 10k vd 5k changes) That saves $130 per oil change and the oil sample was costing me $30, ( I think they have gone up to $40) So I'm $70-$80 per oil change ahead. The bypass filter kit is $650 plus install and filters are double the cost. I'm not sure for me, I can save enough to justify the cost.
At my age, I don't have a million miles left. But I would like my truck to go at least 300,000 maybe 400,000 miles. Each owner needs to make a similar decision.
Myself, I really think I will spend more money on front end parts, brakes, shocks, and electronics, than I will on engine repairs to get to 400,000 miles
Great points about each owner finding a routine, that they are comfortable with and financially as well, and just do what makes them feel good and what they want to do...
My '16' 6.7 only has 84,000+/- miles, of those 45,000+/- have been pulling the 16k+ 5th wheel in the west. I like to think it gets a good work out to clean the engine some. I'll use Hot Shot EDT 1-2 oz every fill up. Use Rotella T6 every 7,000 miles (when truck shows change is needed). Changed the CP4 out to the DCR roughly 2 years ago when replacing the turbo for the occasional over boost condition. Truck seems to run like a charm climbing mountain grades holding speed with slow speed increase if I lock out OD before the base of the mountain grade. I don't see trading or replacing it unless something unforseen happens.
Now my '21' 7.3 Godzilla has 256,000+ miles on it and figure by end of year be near 300,000 miles. If it stays running like it does now with no oil consumption, oil samples sent into Blackstone come back excellent. I'll decide if it will keep racking up miles or drop another engine in it. I really want to see what it will go to but might be an inconvenience if something happens while traveling for work. Leaning towards keep going.
You notice in that video it's all about maintenance and changing parts as needed for longevity. It did appear he needed a seat in the truck though.
As to my transmission, when I'm local with lower speed limits, I lock out 6th gear. I also drive around in tow mode because I like the way she downshifts coming down hills to a stop sign and it keeps the RPMs up when driving also. We have V8s that like higher revs, not like the Cummins boys where they can lug all day at the lower RPMs.
Ive dropped the fluid in my trans 4 times already and have used LubeGard in my trans this last drop and believe the first time I R&R- ed the fluid... trans filter changed first time and this last time I believe...
Old habits die hard as my 96 F250 was a plow truck that pushed a lot of snow and those E4ODs were known to not Last, so I added stuff to it along with about 2 cases of ATF to make it last to 91k miles... anyways, that last fluid drop was at 50k miles IIRC and came back looking good from Blackstone Labs report from the sample I sent in.
Lots of in and out of that seat in 900k miles of hauling campers around the country...
My $0.02
Last edited by FishOnOne; Apr 30, 2026 at 12:51 PM.















