Hello everyone! New here and having issues. A little backstory to get started. Picked up a 2004 F-250 6.0 a few months back, got it for a really good price since we took it in on trade here at work. Truck has 129,237 miles, only mods from what I can tell is new exhaust straight piped. Truck ran great for the first month or so, then one day stopped by the store after work and it would not restart, wanted an hour and it fired up and got home. Next day fired right up in the morning and went to work, got in to leave for the day fired right up and went home. Got back in maybe an hour later and it wouldn't start again. Started researching and changed the IPR. Ran great with no issues at all.......for a week. Then started the whole mess again. Changed the ICP and still no go. Pulled the IPR again bench tested and it would not actuate. Warranty exchanged this one for a Ford OEM one. Still no start when hot. I replaced the dummy plugs and stand pipes, oil change with with 5w-40, new Ford oil filter, changed both fuel filters with Ford filters. Started an ran great but still no start hot. Drove it to work last week and ran like it was brand new, after work it fired up and headed home. About 2 miles from the house it died in traffic and would not start. Got pushed off the road and 3 hours later it started and got home. Yesterday I started it up again and it was idling really rough for about 3 mins then smoothed out a little, after 10 min it was normal. Ran it up and down the road a few times seemed a little low on power. Parked and went in, came out about 9:30pm to move it and the truck finally started but very bad idle and surging, just as I got it moved to the driveway it was surging pretty bad and then died. I started it this morning let it run for a few minutes turned it off, and wouldn't start again. EOT only had time to come up 8 degrees from 70-78. I am at a loss here, while running after warm up Desired ICP and actual ICP are right with each other, never more than few psi different. Posted screen shots are cranking and running. Thanks in advance for the help! I have other screenshots of the data if need be.

Warm running

Cranking when warm

 

Does the dash oil pressure gauge come up when cranking a hot engine?

If it does, then air test the high pressure oil system with the special IPR test fitting

 

Yes the gauge does rise, doesn't take long for it to register. I will air test again when I can get the adapter from my brother in-law. Last air test is when I found dummy plugs where leaking. I tested again after the dummy plugs and stand pipes where replaced and didn't hear anything. I should also mention that the ICP sensor is aftermarket not OEM. Need to get that replaced with an OEM one. Would a HPO leak show even after 8 degrees of oil warm up? Yesterday when started up first thing it sounded horrible and I shut it down after only about 15 secs, tried to start again and just crank. Man this sucks! First "new" to me truck in 21 years!

 

I'm not sure if the IPR valves are different on an 04, but your hot IPR% looks very high. My 05 & 06 would both run around 24% at hot idle (maintaining 580psi ICP). You are running 31% so something is definitely wrong. Likely a HP oil leak somewhere. Being an 04 you've also got the potential for the HPOP to be having issues, I don't recall the exact symptoms you'll see but I know they are known to go bad around 100k so it might be time.

Since it's simple, I would first try swapping back to your original ICP sensor and see if the hot IPR% changes. If not you need to air test and find the leak.

 

I was looking for the original ICP last night, I know I still have it, just don't where the hell I put it!

 

So a little update, after air testing again a while back found that the J-tube was leaking as well. Got that replaced this past weekend and finished mounting the turbo and everything else last night. It fired up on the second try, IPR is still sitting at 30% while hot idle. Well it still will not start while hot. IPR jumps right to 84, no slow build. Possible air still in the system? Bad IPR? ICP sensor reading not right because it is not OEM? or my fear a bad HPOP. But if it was a bad HPOP would it even start? ICP and ICP desired are always real close while running, wouldn't desired be higher than actual? Tried it again this morning and it fired up right away, no long crank or anything. Tried it 3 times and fired right away. Let it idle while I took my daughter to school EOT was at 177F and ECT was at 182F. Tried to start it again and crank no start and that's when IPR jumped right to 84. Man I am frustrated right now!

 

Did you get it fixed? Usually, no start hot is injector seals. I am going through this now. #1 injector top inside seal was blown. Here's the info from the tech folder:

injector top rings

 

I have not yet, going to be getting back on it hopefully soon. I have COVID right now and this **** sucks! Last thing that needs sealed is the injectors. I did notice that a oil rail bolts was over torqued and broke off. It is the very front bolt on the driver's side, could this cause the issue? 1 bolt not holding it down?

 

Air test the high pressure oil system with the special IPR test fitting

 

I did, the leaks where at the #2 nipple cup, replaced the rings on that rail(that's when I found the over torqued rail bolt) and at the J tube. Replaced J tube and now she fires right up again. Can turn off and start everytime until she warms up to about 140 EOT. Before it wouldn't even be at 80 degrees and no start.

 

I have this on another forum as well, but the issue first started a few days after we went camping. We had to leave the camp site because of the rain(river rising) and on the way out I hit a hole in the road that was about 2 feet deep on the drivers side front, The next morning started the truck and it took a bit longer to start and it was smoking pretty good(I thought my wife had started a fire just as we where about to leave) I chocked it up to it being colder than back home and the elevation change(9200 ft compared to 5290 back home) This was the first time camping in the truck. Now I did find leaks in the HPO system and fixed them, but it seems weird that everything went to hell all at once. Someone has been into this truck before I got it. The over torqued oil rail bolt, a piece of hose under the FICM connectors. But once I get this figured out I will be happy! All the work I have put into the truck so far has lowered the price from my boss( started out at $6500 now I am into for just my time. Boss gave it to me, and he has paid for the parts!) Win Win right? lol

 

Ok, so here is an update to the now start hot. Got it all figured out this weekend. Upper injector o-rings on injectors 3,5 and 7 where all shot, about half the o-ring in each one was completely gone. Replaced the nipple cup o-rings and upper injector o-rings. I did the the other side over Thanksgiving. Just an FYI for anyone that needs to know, you can change the upper o-rings without removing the injectors or messing with the snap rings. Long story short, truck is fixed after 4 months of messing with it and the entire HPO system has been re-sealed. Thanks for all the help guys! I really appreciate it.

 

The hose under the FICM connector is there to hold it in tightly. People do that when the connector "lock tabs" break.

That air test process will show you the leak points, even though it took a few times. Thanks for posting the conclusion.

 

Might have broken down, but it sure looked GOOD doing it! Truck looks great Bob, (and so does your daughter... LOL!).