Whats the best route to take for a 7.3 compression test? Ive got the gasser stuff but not diesel

 

need a 500 PSI gauge and a long GP adapter to M10 x 1.25

 

I have @Jarrett Campbell 's comp kit. Can mail to you if cool with him.

I actually am running 205/30s on stock tuning. Jim from Rosewood posted somewhere that those on stock tune run like 90/30s on hot tune. Seems about right, it has a bit more pep in its step than my old 'hot' tune. I have also tried it on my old 90/0 tow tune and it works great to DD if you watch the EGTs.

Hydra is here, just been too lazy to put in the truck.

Old fuel filter bowl rebuilt from you. Need to start that thread.

 

That would be awesome if hes cool with it, ill def throw some $ your way.

Thanks for the info on injectors. If i wind up doing injectors ill talk with Jim about it.



look forward to the fuel bowl rebuild and the truck its destined for.

 

Please note, my mill is tired. No 8 is around 220psi now. I also have a leaking manifold which is not helping my EGTs, nor is that beat (basically dead) hole. I only cruise at 70mph around 3-4psi on level ground, unloaded. RR uppipes. 1.0 turbine, stock turbine wheel. I have a KC Stage 1 lined up for it, but until then I will jerk the manifolds and machine flat. No IC either.

The injectors are from Bitterroot, seem just fine to me. I went back and fourth for a LONG time between 160/30 and 205/30. I said screw it, went bigger as can always turn down. The 205/30 apparently have more midrange ***, say from 2200-2800, than the 160/30 but perform similar on the top end as the nozzle is too small to fully dump all 205cc @ 3400rpm or whatever. No regrets at all in my choice. My '96 is a dually like yours, but extended cab, also a manual.

That injector thread on the SD page is full of data.

 

And now drama

I followed that thread and you reminded me of a chart that was posted in the beginning.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19543617

 

Chris, sorry to hear your truck is making oil. That is something different than air in the oil system, obviously.

FordTruckNoob made a nice "how to" for checking engine compression and it is hosted in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder or by clicking the link below.

Link: Cylinder Compression Test Procedure

Jim offers a great product and service for our community. He is always a straight shooter and will tell you how it is and is highly recommended by many, many 7.3L owners.

 

Thank you for the link!

I drove it again last night to town and back, running great, no shaking at all just a slight up and down in rpm at idle like someone is just tickling the fuel pedal every second or two. When it cranks over its smooth no up and down from a weak cylinder, no puffing out crankcase. It runs so good I hate to take it apart but the oil continues to climb so i know i cant just keep driving it.

Now if I could just figure out how to get it to make fuel like the 5,9 Cummins seems to do when driving loaded with 30,000?

Ive got some time off in the coming weeks, so I've made a list and i plan to try to get it all done.

My list so far for just this vehicle, there are others unfortuately Red truck

· Door pins

· Door strikers

· Door panel repair

· Power steering hose and fluid

· Test compression

· Change glow plug relay

· Remove add a leaf

· Shorten track bar

· Repack front bearings/ front ujoints / install locking hubs

- install rear brake shoes in correct orientation

· Inspect leak at transmission / check fluids tcase

· Flush brakes/change brake hoses / cruise switch

· Gauges/pods

· Belt

· Oil cooler rebuild / coolant flush

· Heater core

· replace batteries

· Replace injectors/glow plugs / pcv orings

· Turn signal flasher

· Windshield wipers· Cab clearance light bulbs

 

On the engine making oil, It has been my experience that it is the injectors. It has happened to me in two occasions, one with mechanical injectors and once with a 7.3. Both were cured with rebuilt or with the 7.3, different used injectors. Jim commented that he didn't see how the 7.3 injector could "make" oil, but swapping in different injectors cured the problem for me.

 

Thanks farmer, have and photos of the 96 c&c?

When I changed oil about 100 miles ago, I had it about 3/16 below the full mark.

Checked it about 50 miles later and

Another 50ish miles and

 

Sorry I don't have any pics, and even if I did, I don't know how to post them up as I know just enough about a computer to get myself in trouble. LOL It is pretty rough, as it spent it's early life in Michigan. Wow, that truck is making oil pretty fast. My brother had the 7.3 that was making" oil and it has somewhere around 275K on the engine. It got so where it would not start when it got to below 40 degrees F without being plugged in. That and making oil lead me to swapping out injectors with a used set bought off EBay, as I wasn't sure if it would solve the problem. My first experience with a diesel making oil was with the Brazilian Ford engine in my combine. Rebuilding the injector pump did no good, which lead me to getting the injectors rebuilt, which solved the problem.

 

Got door pins and bushings installed changed out the strikers also. The plastic bushing on the strikers ended up being slightly to large and causing the door to stick.
I milled this down in a highly technical process using a pair of needle nose and a flap disc.
The passenger side only needed the upper pin and bushing.

The doors shut like they should now, crisp.



Pass side

Driver

Driver

 

Come do my doors next, please.

 

Pull the pump on my 3930 and unseize it and you got a deal

 

Looking forward to feeding the 6.7 Starter properly. One of these batteries load tested good and it’s sitting at 13.2 V the other one is bad and below 12v so keeping the good one as a spare for the shop. My old shop battery is going as the other core.