HA was going to ping you this AM to see if you started that efuel install.

I suggest replacing those front, rubber fuel return lines while access is easy. RR makes nice ones now as opposed to Motorcraft. I had one fail and pissed out piles of fuel and fast.

 

My gut was saying to do that, but my hands said NO. Do I have to pull ps pump/ac bracket to get driver side connection at head loose? I think I need to do IPR pigtail too

 

Ordered some plenum boots from cnc fab

grabbed ipr pigtail kit,
shrader valve and fuel lines from riffraff.

going to follow This method to replace fuel lines specifically driver front head.

 

Excellent, glad you are doing those lines.

Method sounds familiar, just been so long I cannot honestly recall how I did them. I do believe the driver side was more difficult.

 

I spent about 20 mins trying to get driver side line loose at the front of the head. With the wrenches I have at my disposal, its not happening so I will be employing the method above.

Have you swapped to a bosch pump yet or still running the walbro?

 

Still on the Walbro, I keep forgetting to pick up a Boosch pump and the fittings. Truck is parked anyway as pointless for me to drive to work due to fuel costs and not hauling anything now...$3/gal for RUG versus $4.25 for No 2.

 

Surprised it wasn’t a 10mm. You know how those sneaky things like to run away.


Wow, we’re still at $5.59. Was $5.99 a couple weeks ago.

Of course we’re also at $3.54 for RUG.

 

Diesel here is 5.50 currently.

I've been driving my 4runner on WMO or my Bolt everywhere for a month lol.

 

I dont blame you, thats a pretty "good" price for right now. We are hovering around 5 bucks here in middle GA.

HA HA HA, I figured I was due, I've donated plenty of tools over the years to various vehicles. Kind of makes me wonder what was being addressed when the 13mm got dropped? After cleaning it up, its a well used socket, makes me lean towards it was getting some love at a shop. The only 13mm I noticed in the front of the valley is the fuel bowl bolts, but it wouldn't make sense to be that. Valve cover bolts maybe? Plenums look untouched.

Im lucky to WFH for the last year and a half. I dont drive the 30-50k a year that i used to, very thankful for it.

87 octane small engine killer is right around $2.99-3.19 here.

 

If you are bored, you can remove all that OE wiring for the mechanical fuel system all the way back to that square connector for the engine harness. This really cleans up the front section and leaves you down to simply the IPR and GPR stuff up front. Truck is going to be nice and simple with the basic upgrades you are performing on the thing.

Out here in southern LA, truck stops are $5.25 area for No 2 and RUG shows about $3.25. Sounds like we are averaging about a $2/gal differential in cost for the fuels across the lower 48.

 

Thank you for the tip, do you pull the pins out of the connector? I like simple. The Fugazzotto system says to use the fuel heater wire to trigger the relay, so I was planning on that route as I'm not much of an electrical guy.

 

Yes, super easy to depin.

I do not have the EVTM handy, but I bet you could figure out which wire from the square connector runs to the fuel heater and use that. I have my kit wired to switched 12V from my fuse box with a Maxifuse. Pretty tidy now, there should be pics in my build thread. If not sufficient, I can grab you more pics when home probably in 2-3 weeks.

 

Thank you, I recently read thru your efuel install thread and saw how you did it, thank you for documenting so well. I'm going to take what I learned from you and properly f-ck it up in my own special way.


you still want the old fuel bowl? If so pm me your address and ill get it out sometime soon.

 

LMAO because I think we all can relate to this statement.

 

Finally found a little time to work on the truck a few hours.

Started with unbolting ac compressor, then the 4 bolts for the ac/ps/vac bracket and pulled it forward. Swapped the return hoses out for riff raff replacements.
Noticed in the process the bottom power steering pump bolt was about a hair from backing out into the pulley. Got it threaded back in and snugged up, that was time consuming.

Next I pulled the hpop hoses and the old ipr then sucked the oil out with mightyvac handpump.

Gear bolt on the hpop was an absolute booger. I had to put breaker bar on alternator bolt to keep engine from turning and cheater pipe on ratchet and finally got the bolt loose and removed.

Yanked the pump and cleaned things up a bit then called it a night.



You can see route of new return hose

old stuff, cracked plastic on solenoid.


Free barely run reman ford 17* hpop ready to go in. I don't think there is anything wrong with the original but I have had this laying around awhile so why not. Likely this truck will be getting 160's at some point.



I had a hose fail from the pump to orbital on my 92' YJ Saturday on a ride. I think i found a use for the old hpop hoses, one will act as a trail spare. I just need what I believe to be a 6anmale to #6 orb adapter.