Starter issues. Tipps for roadside fix?
I did have an issue with a DB starter last year. I bought a starter for my 2006 Polaris sled. It has a 755cc 2 stroke. The starter stopped working altogether after several slow starts. Brush wires rubbed the commutator and were rubbed through. Ironically it was the same issue with a different branded Chinese starter, as well as the original Polaris starter. (This particular 2 stroke has a massive amount of vibration, which is a main reason Polaris stopped building it). Onto the warranty with DB. They didn’t have parts to send, and they didn’t have any starters at the time to replace this with. As it was snow season, I used the parts from the other 2 to get it working. Take always here are they are a reseller, and don’t have parts. They would send you a new starter if a warranty issue arose.
I’ve used DB starters on a few outboards and a motorcycle with good success.
Chuck.
both the front and back bearings and put a new solenoid in it. I got it from a local highly rebuilder. The brushes
showed a lot of life left. It would have been nice to have access to a growler, so I could check the coils correctly.
TI cleaned the commutator up. The person that sent me to the guy with the solenoid was my parts guy. I had
asked him where he would go for parts that NAPA did not have. That is where he pointed me to go. That was the
starter I was using before I pulled the engine down for a rebuild.
As for a starter not working when hot. I have only seen one, and that was way back when I was 18 or 19.
The guy that owned the car had put a set of headers on it and did not use any heat shielding. It was one of the
old bushing type starters. The heat would cause some expansion of metal and lock the armature up. Let it
cool down. Then you would have no problems starting it up. Nothing like a pizza delivery driver to stress
test a car. We just told him when coming into the shop for an order if he was going to shut it down to open the hood.
What fun we had back then. Mt Saint Helens was blowing it top off that summer. Ash falling in the headlights looks
like sparkly snow. We also got local aura at sunset. Very cool looking that is for sure.
I will take Jack's suggestion and go with the 6.7starter.
At German suppliers, a starter costs $800 (!!!).
Rockauto is the cheapest provider in shipping and also the fastest.
What is the difference between these two?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=935&jsn=935
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=937&jsn=937
As a spare part when traveling, I will pick this one up:
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...l-2011-15.html
I'd be going for the $70 used OE starter on eBay, and use the Ford boxed starter as the spare. The new starter could get sold in the future if you never need it. But with all have our own paths.
I will carry the Motorcraft starter as a spare part in the future.
Tomorrow the dude from Shanghai will be exchanged against the scrap from Pensacola Fuel Injection, then he can show if he is good.









https://plusline-parts.com/
I installed it today, it does what it should, let's see how long.
@Jack before I disassemble the 6.4 starter from Pensacola Fuel Injection, I would first like to make tests where I heat him in the installation position as on the engine to see from what temperature he stops working, but that still takes 2-3 weeks until I have time to make a proper mounting plate.
This was the starter from Pensacola Fuel Injection when I installed it in April 2020. I drove the truck with this starer motor less than 14k, and always long distance through Northern Europe, the truck sees no short trips on me, therefore the starter had to work very less.



Motorcraft: Made in China!!


It does not look bad now after the 2 years, but it does not work properly.

Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Pensacola's claim that it's an OEM for me is a stretch. Yes, it's sold by Ford, but I doubt in the Ford parts catalog, it is labeled as a warranty replacement. The warranty replacement is often a key to a better part.
There may be a thread on this forum from years ago about the Ford starters, but memory is getting fuzzy.
For the most part, I trust Japanese quality still. Hartwig - you might comment on your opinions on the current German manufacturing quality.
No doubt the price for quality goods is getting very high in so many cases, but if fewer and fewer people show this preference, we are ALL going to be affected regardless of our desire to have a choice.
228 6.0
231 6.4
243 6.7
The 6.7 certainly sounded fast, but ends up only 15rpm more than the stock starter???
I somehow lost most of my Torque logging files, but I was thinking I am getting more in the 170 rpm range...?
On edit: I found one log I did after finishing all the Ground additions and had the Odyssey Extremes in - cold start with GPM On - Cranking was only 153 RPM!
Made in Germany now only means that the last screw has been put in in Germany.
Many things gone wrong in Germany for many years.
Germany has made itself dependent on the whole world.
228 6.0
231 6.4
243 6.7
The 6.7 certainly sounded fast, but ends up only 15rpm more than the stock starter???
I somehow lost most of my Torque logging files, but I was thinking I am getting more in the 170 rpm range...?
On edit: I found one log I did after finishing all the Ground additions and had the Odyssey Extremes in - cold start with GPM On - Cranking was only 153 RPM!
I still have Hella parts that were made in Germany, now China.
The race to the bottom goes back to the '90s when the aftermarket companies all pushed for lower cost products from us; NAPA vs. Advance vs. AutoZone vs. etc.
The numbers I got back in the day when Bill (Per4mance) let me use his truck with the 6.0 starter.

























