No big deal at all. Lots of changes in the year models. Hard to keep up with them all.

 

I don't understand why anyone would screw the IPR in so tightly. Theoretically, it is enough to screw the valve in so tightly that it does not loosen on its own. The seal is made by the o-ring, not by a sealing ring that requires surface pressure.

 

So many do not understand that, Hartwig. All of the filter caps on the 6.0 seal by o-ring, and that tension keeps them from moving. Oil, fuel, trans; I turn until first contact, not even to the torque specified.

 

Both of the ones I found difficult I believe had never been out before. One of them was my own truck which I had a pretty good history on. Kinda fused in place and came loose with a loud snap. A few others have not been an issue. My arms aren’t long enough to work from the bottom so I’m up top with the FICM out. I commonly don’t use a torque wrench on install because of the swivel messing up the measurement anyway. I’m pretty confident I know what 35-40 ft/lbs feels like and as noted the seal is the o-ring, not the mating surfaces.

 

Yup. The point is don't overdo it.

 

Interesting thread, the IPR valve does not need to be 'armstrong' tight, 20 - 30 pounds is a plenty , as has been mentioned a few times already in this thread. Over tightening the valve can lead to distortion of the valve bore and binding of the internals - we have seen "just replaced the IPR" complaints before.
This has been asked already, but bears asking again -- you sure that you are turning the valve the correct direction ? -- The threads in the HPOP cover should not seize, but if that were the case, the outer set of threads in the magnet part would loosen and leave the inner parts in the HPOP cover. The IPR valve has two sets of threads, one that you see when you remove the valve, and the other internal to the magnet coil.
The IPR socket is a handy tool and should be sufficient to the task, but you can also cut off a combination wrench and use that to apply more force -- or an air hammer on one of the flats of the valve body. I know the angle to get an extension to the valve does not allow much turning force -- an actual impact swivel works much better than the regular swivel that comes in a socket set, matter of fact, I rarely use that regular swivel.

 

I think that some people screw it on more than needed to match up to the connector......not realizing that the electronics can rotate independently.

 

If a person is confused about which way to turn it, they should just leave it alone and pick it up after a mechanic has fixed it.

 

For those: fortunately beer cans do not have a thread

 

My motto is if you haven't broken anything then you're really not trying hard enough.

 

Up until I changed mine a few years ago (chasing a dying issue that was an FICM) did I know the connector portion can spin independently. I am not sure how the hell someone could tighten it that tight without the valve destroying the cover or itself.