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I know there's threads on this already, but they are about vehicles that don't currently have an up pipe leak and a hole in the manifold like I do (so I have a pretty good reason to want my EBPV unplugged right now, that being the god awful hiss that can be heard for miles). I've had it unplugged for a good two years and have had no issues as a result of doing so, but now it seems the valve is moving freely and is opening and closing while I drive, and that throws some codes and MIL indicator when I floor it when it's cold and also affects performance in all temps. I'm going to replace the up pipes soon, so what I'm wondering is: What's best to do once I replace the up pipes and patch the manifold? Plug it back in, leave it unplugged and jerry rig it to stay open, or delete it entirely? I'll replace the exhaust out port if I need to but I'm cheap as hell with this ****box and want an opinion on what I can get away with doing.
SSJ has a good writeup on a cheap as hell method to gut the EBPV - That's what I'd recommend for you if you do not need the valve for warmup assistance or exhaust brake function. Take a look at the thread below.
I did the SSJ delete on my econoline. The fact that its a pita to get to is almost reason enough to do it. You can disconnect the actuator rod and wire the flapper open to get you by. I think as you are noticing tho the solenoid starts to leak oil and its best to delete it.
My 99 e350 is a late99 and the 60$ amazon upipe worked great. Its the only easy thing to install on the vans.
You have to consider the time and effort involved in removing the stock turbo and figure out if deleting the EBPV is worth it to you. Consider anything that does not go according to plan or you break in the process.
Don't delete the EBPV for performance gains, there are none. Unless you consider the valve opening and closing as it sees fit a performance issue. Delete the EBPV for preventive maintenance and replace the pedestal for leak prevention.
Although, if you EVER plan to use the EBPV as an exhaust brake or you sell the truck, consider fixing the potential problem areas by rebuilding them or just wiring the valve open in a few minutes and calling it done.
Basically, it is up to you based on your level of commitment and your end goal.
@BWST Thanks for the link! Also I only get that code when I floor it when it's cold, and right when the valve seems like it shuts. When it's warmer it only seems to open and close freely and randomly at lower throttle positions but stays open at higher ones. I've cleared the codes and got them back all at the same time.
@T-wood That's what I was hoping to hear, I kinda just want to wire it open when I replace the up pipes. Thanks!
@Sous It seems the valve moves freely now, and whenever it shuts I lose a lot of power without moving the accelerator. That's what I meant by performance issues. Also glad to hear a second person suggesting wiring it open, just gonna go that route for the time being.
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