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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 05:30 PM
  #1  
erebus's Avatar
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Help Please

Hi everyone I need your help big time. I have had a pisst pisst sound on heavy accelleration. I thought it was my up-pipes, so I bought the bellowed set and a new exhaust. Well I have most of it disasembled and find a 1/8" hole in the right side exhaust manifold right before the up-pipe connection. Is there anything I can do with this or do I have buy a new manifold? Does anyone have a used right side manifold they don't need? Also how dificult will it be to remove the manifold bolts. They are soaking in pb blaster right now.
Jrod
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 05:35 PM
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You found your leak. Put a Pyro thermocouple in there with a gauge or plug it with a 1/8" NPT plug available just about anywhere. Leave the up pipes alone if they are not leaking. At least that is what I think. By right side do you mean driver or passenger side? Looks like it had a pyro before.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 05:38 PM
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I don't know how hard it is going to be for you to get the manifold off. But a good qualified welder should be able to weld it up for you.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 05:42 PM
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Passaenger side. Great advice, will look into a plug if she has enough meat. I don't have the funds right now for the pyro.

Stuff I bought for the day of tinkering:
6637 & 4" pipe
Wicked Wheel
Bellowed up-pipes
4" Diamond Eye SS exhaust
Jrod
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 06:03 PM
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erebus- are you in a hurry to get the hole plugged? Reason I ask is, I picked up a gauge set on a good deal with a thread-in pyro. My truck already has a clamp-in pyro in it (not sure what size hole was drilled for it though) that I'd let you have for the price of shipping if you want it. Comes with lead wires too. Whether or not it works is unknown, but it would be at least a temporary solution to your problem.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 06:27 PM
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Chase thanks for the offer I will keep it in mind. The hole is right next to the bolts for the up-pipe, not much room to work with until the rusted bolt is out. If I use a bolt to plug the hole it will be tight to put the up-pipe bolt and nut on, so I will try to use an allen plug. I just came in to put on a jacket and start the coffe maker plus check for more replies. Well back to trying to cut off the bolt with my dremmel.
Jrod
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by fxstbchopper
I don't know how hard it is going to be for you to get the manifold off. But a good qualified welder should be able to weld it up for you.
I don't know. It's cast iron and that's gonna be tough to weld, especially while still on the truck. I would try and plug it like Mike said before I tried to have it welded and it ended up spidering and cracking all over.

They might be able to just weld the hole shut with some nickle rod but it's still a long shot if it would stick good enough and stay.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 07:44 PM
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The Jb Weld Works Good In Situations Like That. If The Stuff In The Tube Is Too Runny, Use The Stick.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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Yeah Scott that is why I said he would have to take the manifold off the truck cast is not hard to weld but it needs to be heated while welding it so no you will not be able to do it on the truck.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 08:00 PM
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Update since I noticed the hole after I started to cut the bolts I am commited to take out the up-pipes. The bolts are rusted bad, part of the bolt is still in the manifold. It is going to be tuff to get them out while still on the truck. I might have to take both manifolds off.

Jrod
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 11:10 AM
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Update #2
I am unable to get into the tight spots to drill. This leaves me with no choice but to take it to the dealer. Thanks for all of your insight and time with this problem. I hope to be able to help others as you have helped me.
Jrod
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 05:43 PM
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Sorry for your problems and thanks for posting. We all learn from each post, whether we fix it or you have it fixed. Hang around, someone will be able to help next time, or you will help someone.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 05:30 AM
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Update # 3

I stopped by the dealer and spoke to their diesel mechanic. He told me that inorder to fix it right he would pull the cab to have better access to drill. He also said that it can take 15 - 20 hours to do this @100.00 per hour. Not including the parts. Possible parts list include manifold and bolts and heads if it cracks when removing the manifold bolts. Needles to say I will continue to work on it myself. Little by little I will get this done.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 05:36 AM
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One trick that works well for getting frozen bolts out is to heat them up glowing red, then let them cool off. An acetyline torch works best for this. You have to get them cherry red. Repeat several times. Spray with Blaster between times. Patience, perseverence, and not forcing it to the point of snapping the bolt off usually works.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 05:45 AM
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I think I saw some manifolds for sale in the classified section either on this site or on powerstroke nation.
 
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