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FICM - P0261 code, now working fine??

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Old Sep 27, 2021 | 12:02 PM
  #1  
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FICM - P0261 code, now working fine??

Hi, hoping someone else may have an idea for me. I just had some service work done to my truck. 06 6.0 down pipe, and the instrument cluster was repaired due to loss of gauges, radio, and windows. Was leaving town with my toy hauler this weekend and the truck started running very rough, as I was pulling over the code came up P0261 voltage in cylinder 1 too low, FICM. Left the trailer and limped it home. It was running terrible and would barley move in reverse. The next morning I was taking it to my mechanic and it was running fine. He tested the FICM and injectors and did not see any issues. He said it ran fine and test drove it 20 miles with no issues. Is it possible that the cluster repair caused an issue? He is going to test the alternator and batteries today. I am leaving on a trip again this weekend and don't want to make it half way out of town again. Any ideas?
Thanks,
 
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Old Sep 27, 2021 | 02:36 PM
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Mechanic just called and alternator was good, one battery was weak and one was bad. Would that cause an issue with the FICM? or cause an issue then fix itself?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2021 | 10:05 PM
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Weak batteries will definitely mess up a FICM. Not sure about fixing itself. Is it possible one of the connectors wasn't put in good when they did the up pipe? They're tricky and it wouldn't be the first time. That might cause an intermittent hiccup.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2021 | 10:51 AM
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I guess anything is possible. They did that and the controller replacement at the same time so there are a few things to look at there I suppose. Really don't want to have to tow with my 1/2 ton this weekend. Its just so odd that it was running so bad then the next day was just fine.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2021 | 12:00 PM
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I would get both batteries replaced ASAP if you haven't already.

Running bad/weak batteries is a time bomb for destroying the FICM and could certainly contribute to the issue you are having.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2021 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Courtney Williams
Mechanic just called and alternator was good, one battery was weak and one was bad. Would that cause an issue with the FICM? or cause an issue then fix itself?
Do you have a scan tool?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2021 | 05:23 PM
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Replaced both batteries and picked it up last night. Seemed to run fine for a bit, then felt like a clunk in the rear end. I had some fire wood in the back of the truck so didn't think too much about it. This morning driving into work, clunk again. Almost feels like its coming from the rear end. Just had the trans serviced and rear diff work done. One the way home today... check engine light, same code and feels like its not running on all cylinders again now.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2021 | 05:45 PM
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I have a scan gauge II
 
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Old Sep 30, 2021 | 12:28 AM
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Do you have the center carrier being in the drive shaft?
If yes get under and take a look at the rubber. If you find
any cracking then it's time to replace it.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2021 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Courtney Williams
I have a scan gauge II
You may not be reading all your DTC's with the scan gauge II. I would suggest using Forscan and an OBDII reader. Heres what Im usin:

Download FORScan
Amazon.com: BAFX Products 8523900508 for for iOS Devices OBD Reader for Check Engine Lights & Other Diagnostics: Automotive Amazon.com: BAFX Products 8523900508 for for iOS Devices OBD Reader for Check Engine Lights & Other Diagnostics: Automotive


With Forscan you will be able to run live PID data that can help troubleshoot.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2021 | 09:19 AM
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I will look into Forscan.

I am going to take the truck back to him and hope that the issue is still happening when he has it so he can run more tests than I can.
He mentioned an injector as well... which when he tested it was fine due to it "fixing" itself. He test drove it and could not get it to fail again, but I had it for 24 hours and it failed again.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2021 | 02:10 PM
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[QUOTE=Courtney Williams;20086786]I will look into Forscan.[/QUOTE

Its a great tool for our trucks. You can test injectors, glow plugs and run live data on sensors, voltages, cylinder misfires plus much more. 144 PIDs on my 2004. If you have a laptop, download the free windows 10 version and just get the obdii reader. My experience in my neck of the woods is that most mechanics are not very familiar with our trucks. Its best to know what needs fixin before you take the truck to them. I hope you have found a good one.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 07:11 AM
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Your symptoms sound like my first 6.0 breakdown, years ago, that led me to this forum. Ended up being the fuel pump starving injectors. It would start up and sound fine and drive down the road a little ways. Then, it'd start sounding worse. Another little bit, and it was terrible. Tech showed me the injectors contributing on his scan tool - the air leak on the first injector causing it to degrade then air bleeds over to others, one-by-one, along that oil rail, and they all start failing.

If you catch it early, you maybe just replace one injector and the fuel pump. Let it go very long and you'll replace more injectors and the fuel pump. Don't replace the fuel pump, and you'll keep buying injectors every few hundred miles (me). The tech didn't show me fuel pressure - it's not one of the PIDs on our trucks - and he didn't recommend checking it. New injectors got me on the road, but I replaced them again with a pump a couple weeks later.

One clue - if your failed injector is #7, or maybe #5 - the two furthest from the fuel pump, you might have fuel pressure issues.

terrible.Bad injector would be the first symptom.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2021 | 10:39 AM
  #14  
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Courtney Williams
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
Your symptoms sound like my first 6.0 breakdown, years ago, that led me to this forum. Ended up being the fuel pump starving injectors. It would start up and sound fine and drive down the road a little ways. Then, it'd start sounding worse. Another little bit, and it was terrible. Tech showed me the injectors contributing on his scan tool - the air leak on the first injector causing it to degrade then air bleeds over to others, one-by-one, along that oil rail, and they all start failing.

If you catch it early, you maybe just replace one injector and the fuel pump. Let it go very long and you'll replace more injectors and the fuel pump. Don't replace the fuel pump, and you'll keep buying injectors every few hundred miles (me). The tech didn't show me fuel pressure - it's not one of the PIDs on our trucks - and he didn't recommend checking it. New injectors got me on the road, but I replaced them again with a pump a couple weeks later.

One clue - if your failed injector is #7, or maybe #5 - the two furthest from the fuel pump, you might have fuel pressure issues.

terrible.Bad injector would be the first symptom.

Yep, you called it. but it was #1 injector. Which makes since with the FICM code, either way I go new batteries and I had no signs that they were bad.
 
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