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I’m thinking just the stainless at the bottom. It’s not that heavy, but the longer rigid plates that bolt from the top, holding the flaps from sailing? IMO, I personally would skip that. Again, if what you are towing doesn’t have areas exposed 15-20’ back, the plates won’t be an issue. One other small thing, rigid flaps create more drag. Not a biggie, but true none the less. I’m saying that because I noticed more pitting in my boat fenders. My trailer is pretty long, so I know the pitting is coming from the flaps kicking up sand. But no nicks/pitting in the hull which was what I was
Did you see how Lively used Allen studs to adjust to the receiver tubes?
I’m not sure what you have thought up about the locks, but those things Lively uses are great. Only downside is that they have no theft protection.
My marina is pretty safe so I don’t sweat anybody stealing them, but if I were to travel somewhere, I might consider using something to lock the handle to the tube and make them difficult to steal. Maybe a simple hose clamp would be enough.
I’m thinking just the stainless at the bottom. It’s not that heavy, but the longer rigid plates that bolt from the top, holding the flaps from sailing? IMO, I personally would skip that. Again, if what you are towing doesn’t have areas exposed 15-20’ back, the plates won’t be an issue. One other small thing, rigid flaps create more drag. Not a biggie, but true none the less.
I’m saying that because I noticed more pitting in my boat fenders. My trailer is pretty long, so I know the pitting is coming from the flaps kicking up sand. But no nicks/pitting in the hull which was what I was after.
Did you see how Lively used Allen studs to adjust to the receiver tubes?
I’m not sure what you have thought up about the locks, but those things Lively uses are great. Only downside is that they have no theft protection.
My marina is pretty safe so I don’t sweat anybody stealing them, but if I were to travel somewhere, I might consider using something to lock the handle to the tube and make them difficult to steal. Maybe a simple hose clamp would be enough.
I put the pieces on the top mainly on the right side to keep the exhaust from melting to flap, not sure if it gets that hot or not, but just in case, so I just made the left side match. Mine are not as easy to take off as the others, I have them bolted in with a stainless steel allen head bolt. My main reason for building them, was to cut down on the mud a debris flying up on my Polaris Ranger and trailer. I'll put them to the test in a few weeks during waterfowl season. If I need to, I can make modifications. Thanks for all of your suggestions.
Not sure the paint is going to hold up, so I made a couple calls. One place called me back, and to blast them, use a powder coat zinc type primer, and a heavier trailer type gloss black powder coat material, is $115. I'm thinking it would be worth it in the long run
This is the NAPA part # for the ones I used. TWD 8215203
Thanks for the part number. That's about the best price I could find. I'm looking to put some mud flaps on my trailer. The fuel station and air compressor live right behind the tires and seem to catch plenty of crud. If I can't find some cast off rubber material I'll get the ones from NAPA.
My rock stoppers arrived and did not have the SS weighted plate attached to the bottom of the flap. I installed them and discovered I needed the weighted plate to keep the flaps from lifting while under way. I contacted livelymachine.com last Friday and was told they would ship them to me along with the hardware for installation. The quality, fit and finish and customer service is excellent. Once I get the weight SS plate attached I am sure these will work out great.
Rock Flaps by livelymachine.com
Aluminum heat shield and helps keep the flap rigid, but still need the lower SS weighted plate on the exterior side of the flap.
I received the SS weight plate from livelymachine and installed the today. This will eliminate any flap sailing when underway.
A few updated pics.
I just got back from a week long camping trip and these rock stoppers did exactly what I hoped they would. The front our our Travel Trailer was clean.
A little feedback on these Rock Stoppers after some travel use - when my 6.7 diesel goes into regen while traveling and towing my camper the plastic end cap begins to deform and melt from the regen exhaust heat. I contacted Jeff at Lively Machine and sent me another set of plastic end caps. Unfortunately this will not cure the problem. And replacing the plastic end caps after a diesel regen melts the cap will eventually get old. I may just have an aluminum end cap welded on.
Would I purchase again, NO not unless Lively Machine welds an aluminum end cap on. This would correct the issue. Now I need to find a shop to weld an aluminum end cap on and repaint.
Just passing this design flaw forward as these are not cheap.
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