I have a '76 F-100 LWB RWD whose frame-based VIN is difficult/impossible to read in its entirety. I can read four of the eleven characters. I believe that there is also supposed to be a star character before and after the VIN. I'm referencing the one that is easiest to find and see, the one that is on the frame just below where a V8 alternator would be. There is another one on the top rail of the frame underneath the cab but that is inaccessible to me right now. These are both on the passenger side.
The problem here is that to get a Florida title, I will need to get a Florida law enforcement officer to eyeball the VIN on the frame and fill out a form attesting to the VIN. Removing the cab is no guarantee that the VIN under it is any more legible. The truck was previously registered in Georgia which doesn't issue titles on vehicles produced prior to 1985.

One solution that has been suggested to me is to get a die stamp set and use it to better bring out the VIN. Re-stamping the letters and numbers. This sounded rather dicey to me since I'd need to match the size and font of the numbers and letters of the VIN. I could make it worse.

Has anyone here faced that problem and come up with a reliable solution? If so, how did that work out for you?

 

Work hard to get to the vin on the front spot. I would NOT attempt to restamp anything. You might make a legal legit situation, look like a illegal situation. Maybe the officer will look at the front vin # (or as much as is there) and them compare that to the Dvrs side door edge riveted on Warranty Plate (that has the vin) and the Safety Certification, B pillar "white sticker" (with the vin) and call it good?

I would call and explain the situation to the dept that is sending out the officer and see just what they are exactily looking for. Or see if you can talk to THAT officer.

I know this sounds crazy, but it you are going to be replacing/ pulling the cab someday...you can cut the floor to get the frame vin under the cab? I know crazy, but you would not have to cut out as much in the pic. The 2 nuts are the cross members bolts.


I know you know, but this is for the masses. Red box is 4wd vin location along with aft one.

4WD


I have a 76 F100 2wd parts truck, I am willing to cut into the cab to get you the exact spot it is located at.

 

I have to agree with Rich, Frank. Don't try restamping the VIN.
Like Rich said, I would call the DMV and explain the situation and ask them what you should do.
When I lived in Polk County I always had good results with the local DMV. They actually were knowledgeable and helpful.

 

I only get to touch this truck one week out of 4/8 weeks when I visit my old place in Georgia. After scrubbing it really well with a rotary wire brush and not being able to see all of the characters I sprayed some white enamel over the area. It should be dry by the next time I see it so I plan to go after it with a sanding block and 400 grit wet paper to see if that helps. The engine and trans are out of it so doing the mirror thing with the second VIN location might answer the question of whether removing the cab will do the trick. I would be loath to ask a uniformed LEO to crawl under a truck and reverse the images they see in a mirror. Maybe there is a remote camera solution for this?
I agree that it would not be all that hard to look like I'm being deceptive. Probably best to cross out that re-stamping option.
I hope to be able to trailer it down to Florida before year's end. I hope to have a plan for getting the paperwork straight before then or shortly after. So, still noodling this issue over and over again.
Thanks, Rich for offering to cut a parts truck to locate the VIN. Let me try the mirror trick before you go to that trouble.

 

Ever try raising a stamped number using a piece of white paper and pencil laid over on it's side. ... after cleaning the surface well.

 

Thanks, Mike, I have crossed out that option.
After I sand down the white paint applied to that part of the frame this past week, I will take a few pictures to share with DMV. I might even be able to snap a pic of whatever is beneath the cab in order to present the situation more fully. The DMV folks here in Citrus county have been very helpful with a wide range of issues that I have brought to them.

 

Thanks tbear, I recognize that as a viable tactic b/c I know folks that use it to render gravestone rubbings. It does work.

 

I wonder if a cheap bore/endo scope might let you see the VIN under the cab. And maybe get close enough to the VIN up front to make out the numbers. Most of the ‘scopes have a short focal distance of a couple or 3 inches which might be what you need. Many come with a some what junky right angle mirror attachment.

Rather than trying to get the whole number in one shot, try panning across it in video mode. Also try lighting from the side rather than straight on. You may need more than one video with different lighting angles to piece the whole thing together.

Michael

 

The paint and sand trick works pretty good as long as the stamp impression are clean before the paint goes in. Wrap the sand paper around a flat hard surface (sanding block). Or use a foam backed sanding block. That trick works on the harmonic balancer timing marks too.

Harbor Freight has a cheap cable camera. Once you have one, you will find it helpful in a lot of other places.
https://www.harborfreight.com/digita...era-61839.html

Glad you stamped out (pun intended) the restamp idea, hate to see it cause you more trouble. Even with the motor/trans out I think that one is going to be hard to locate under the cab. Good luck, keep us posted.

 

This is what I was going to suggest...a pencil rubbing.

 

What I did was to cover the number with a piece of rag and keep it soaked with evap-o-rust for about a week. It's still a bit pitted, but you can read the numbers.

 

I had the same issue on my wife's 65. You can see all the digits and the stars on hers, but the last 5 digits are VERY faint. If I was trying to read it outright instead of match it to the known number on the title, I don't think I could have. My solution when I went to the DMV is I offered to read the numbers while she verified it from the title. She took a look at a very old, dirty truck and opted to stay clean for the rest of the day. I didn't tell her I had memorized the number... and it worked.

To prevent future issues, I got one of the super fine engraver pens and used it to carefully enhance the numbers. I was not trying to make them as deep as new, just make them a bit more obvious. It came out nicely without looking like a forgery. Once I repaint the frame it will be impossible to tell that what was done, but it is kind of obvious unpainted, due to the nice shiny metal. I don't recommend trying this technique unless you paint the area a dark color then rub a white crayon over it. I hope they would accept that you are trying to make it easier to read and not squawk about painting it.

 

Plain white vinegar does the same, then wash off the residue and hit it with a wire brush or wire wheel on a grinder. Now not to heavy with elec powered grinder wire wheel.