I own a 1976 F250 4x4 pickup truck. The truck is titled in my name and the VIN# on the title matches the number on the warranty tag on the door and the number on the weight sticker on the pillar. I received a call from the Secretary of State inspector stating that my VIN # matches a VIN # of another truck that an individual in my state is trying to title. I have seen photo of the other individual's frame VIN # and it does match my VIN #. The inspector came to my residence to check my truck. I found the VIN# in the engine compartment but it is not totally legible. The numbers I can read do match my VIN #. I can't find the second "hidden" VIN # under the cab so here is my dilemma. If I can't match my VIN# to my title I will have to have the truck bonded by my insurance company, apply for a corrected title, and have the secretary of state assign and apply a new SOS number to my vehicle, which will cost me about $500.00. My question is: Is it possible for 2 trucks to have the same VIN# and where exactly is the second hidden VIN # on the frame? If I can verify my VIN then the owner of the other truck will have to have his truck bonded etc. The engine in my truck has been changed so finding VIN # on engine will not help. Also is there another location I should be looking for VIN# besides the passenger side top rail on frame? Any help would be appreciated.

 

With very few exceptions (like K-Code Mustangs) Ford didn't stamp or cast VINs on engines... that's a GM thing.

I'd go the extra mile to verify your frame ID in the effort for the other guy to have to do the bonding. Strip the paint /gunk over the frame VIN down to bare steel... Use the least abrasive means possible. Alternatively, disconnect and jack up your cab to reveal the other frame stamp. It costs nothing but time and effort. Alternatively, bring it to a shop and have them raise the cab on a lift.

One technique that forensic scientists use on guns whose serial numbers have been obliterated is to use hydrocloric acid to remove layers of the steel. See, when metal is stamped the underlying metal is deformed. You may not be possible to see it now but dissolving successive layers of metal may be able to reveal the deformed metal underneath.

Is it possible for two trucks to have the same VIN? I say yes... errors are bound to happeing in any system where humans are involved. And quality control back in the day was less than stellar.

 

Thanks for the info. I have taken the cab mounts loose and raised the cab so I can see the frame. I can't seem to find the VIN# under the cab but I'm still looking and wire brushing. I have hopes of finding the second VIN# and that it matches. Lots of scale and rust on the top rail under cab but still looking. I've tried the acid on the engine compartment VIN# but doesn't seem to help. I will keep trying. The SOS inspector has been good to work with and has given me time to locate second VIN#. Wish me luck.

 

The second VIN should be on top of the right frame rail where the passenger would be positioned.

Hopefully there is a second VIN stamp... I'm thinking there is a distinct possibility that your rig may have been bucked on a late Friday afternoon by a lazy line worker or a Monday morning by a line worker who was totally hung over from the weekend.

Here you go:

 

Look in the area on top of the frame rail where the seat mount bracket fwd bolt would come thru on the passenger side.

From what I understand the VI # on the frame goes with the paper title, you might be in a deal where the top half of the truck was put on a different frame and you got that body and title?

 

I have cleaned and looked on the top rail frame under my cab from front cab mount to back cab mount and there is no sign of a VIN# anywhere in this area. I can't even find a partial # or letter anywhere. I'm beginning to think my frame wasn't stamped under the cab for whatever reason. I will concentrate on "raising" the VIN# in the engine compartment, but so far nothing seems to bring the stamped numbers out so they can be read. What are the chances that two 38 year old trucks would try and be titled in the same state with the same VIN#??? Just my luck. Maybe I should try the lottery!!!!

 

Use brake cleaner and a soft bristle brush, after you get it real dry, put a piece of paper on it and try using some ground up pencil led to trace the raised part around the stamped part? Or try the reverse way with ground up pencil lead on the frame and then a hard press or scrape?

Maybe some ink and a roller?

 

Hidden frame VIN: Look on the top of the right (passenger) side frame rail adjacent to the alternator, on the right side under or partially under the cab.

On the top of the left (drivers) side frame rail adjacent to the steering gear box, on the engine cross member (2WD) below the harmonic balancer.

Location may vary between assembly plants. 1957/80 VIN's have 11 digits, hidden VIN's have an asterisk stamped before/after the number, like this example: *F10DR639896*

 

Sorry to hear about your problems with the VIN.
Here is a picture of mine, it's located on the passenger side frame rail about 6"-8" behind the front cab mount, it was also stamped towards the outside edge of the frame rail.
The second picture is of the VIN in the engine compartment, you can see Ford didn't pay a lot of attention to legibility when they stamped them.

 

OK I have tried just about everything I know to find VIN#. There is no visible VIN# on the frame under cab and believe me I've cleaned it and looked from front cab mount to rear cab mount. I guess I need to find a way to make the engine compartment Vin# stand out. I've tried chalk., lead from pencil, muriatic acid and nothing seems to help. the Vin# on warranty tag and on weight sticker is F26YLB28076. The # in engine compartment is *F26YLB- 8 -- 6 I can't make out the first, third, or fourth number. I need a perfect match to show the inspector. The other info on the warranty plate matches my truck even the color code as well as transmission and engine and axles and type (F261). Anyone have any other suggestions to help raise non readable # or maybe another location to look for a second Vin#. I'm not ready to give up yet!!!

 

Just wondering why the onus is on you and not the other owner? Obviously your findings so far would lead any reasonable person to assume you have the vehicle that matches that VIN. What does the other owner have? Can he provide proof that VIN is stamped on his vehicle?

 

F26 = F250 4WD Pickup.

Y = 360 2V

L = Michigan Truck Assembly Plant.

B28076 = 1976.

Type/GVW: F261 = F250 4WD Pickup, 7,600 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

Where is the VIN located in the engine compartment? I've never seen or heard of any such thing.

 

CelticOne, the owner of the other vehicle has a photo, of the VIN# on his truck stamped into the frame that matches my VIN#. I have seen the photo but not the truck. NumberDummy, the Vin# on my truck which I can only partially read is stamped in the top rail frame on passenger side adjacent to the starter, technically it's on the frame not the engine compartment. As stated in my first post if I can find a readable VIN# on my frame that matches my warranty tag and weight sticker then the other owner would have to have his truck bonded and a Secretary of State vin# applied to his truck. All I need to do is find a legible VIN# stamped in my frame to verify it matches my title and I'm good to go. I appreciate all the advice.

 

The frame rail is not considered to be inside the engine compartment. What you've found is the hidden frame VIN that is stamped on the top of the frame rail.

VIN stamped on the Warranty Plate is known as the Warranty Number. FoMoCo stated it was not for title or registration purposes (it was too EZ to change the plate).

The usual cause: People replaced damaged left doors with used doors. 99.9% of the time, they failed to install the original Warranty Plates on the replaced doors.

However since the Warranty Number matches the VIN on the Safety Standards Certification Label (it's not called a weight sticker) and (I assume) the title, it's probably the original VIN

And btw: The Safety Standards Certification Label, which is glued to the B pillar below the striker plate, is actually composed of two layers.

When it got wet, this could cause the clear outer layer to peel off, taking some/all of the inner layers printed codes along with it.

 

I have given up on finding a second VIN# on the top rail under the passenger seat. For what ever reason my truck wasn't stamped in this location. Unless someone knows of another location for my VIN# I will have to try and make the partial VIN# show up. May have to call in the CSI crew to raise the illegible numbers. LOL!!!