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Sounding like you might have her licked at last. That P1000 is just a codes cleared code, I'm guessing it's some kind of flag for the techs to know previous code were cleared.
Not out of the flood waters yet. LOL Been chasing this nasty Grimlin for a couple months now.. Each time I think I've got it something else festers up.. 310k and this is the most I've spent to keep it going.. if it wasn't for my stubbornness I would probably have stuck dynamite up the tail pipe.. LOL
Sooo.. on a totally different topic, what are people's thoughts and feelings about diesel water separator before fuel pump mod?? Are there positive benefits to the application or not?? Seems easy and not to expensive to do..
The fewer restrictions and connections between the pump and fuel supply the better. The pump will have to work harder and every connection is another chance for air to get in.
More specifically - the high to low side open codes. When the injector body is not flat/true, they need to be machined for optimal operation. Shimming does not fix all the problems. 310k miles was a good run. It’s probably time for a proper rebuild.
Originally Posted by Stubbornazz
Not out of the flood waters yet. LOL Been chasing this nasty Grimlin for a couple months now.. Each time I think I've got it something else festers up.. 310k and this is the most I've spent to keep it going.. if it wasn't for my stubbornness I would probably have stuck dynamite up the tail pipe.. LOL
Sooo.. on a totally different topic, what are people's thoughts and feelings about diesel water separator before fuel pump mod?? Are there positive benefits to the application or not?? Seems easy and not to expensive to do..
The factory fuel system is perfect for supplying enough fuel and cleaning it adequately for protecting the injectors. The exception is the in-tank and pre-pump mods. We get rid of the failure prone pickup foot and filters/mixing chambers in the tank and add a ‘serviceable’ filter on the frame before the fuel pump. This is commonly called ‘hutch and harpoon’ mods, but the common ways to do it are expensive and not ideal. I do this mod for about $20 in parts.
More specifically - the high to low side open codes. When the injector body is not flat/true, they need to be machined for optimal operation. Shimming does not fix all the problems. 310k miles was a good run. It’s probably time for a proper rebuild.
The factory fuel system is perfect for supplying enough fuel and cleaning it adequately for protecting the injectors. The exception is the in-tank and pre-pump mods. We get rid of the failure prone pickup foot and filters/mixing chambers in the tank and add a ‘serviceable’ filter on the frame before the fuel pump. This is commonly called ‘hutch and harpoon’ mods, but the common ways to do it are expensive and not ideal. I do this mod for about $20 in parts.
Oh ok, is it possible to share that list of parts and if you have photos so I may understand the setup?
When I rebuilt the injectors I think I only found 2 or 3 that required a shim. One of the injectors would gauge properly on one side and and was tight as heck on the other side.. When I ran a buzz test one time I had codes for #1 and #4. Out of curiosity I took the solenoid off #4 and switched with #2 to see if the code would travel.. Well they all vanished. 🤷..
Yeah my plan was if I could get another vehicle I was going to park the beast and slowly rebuild the entire topside a little at a time. Valves, rocker arm, push rods and such. Well due to unforseen events that idea has been put on the back burner. The 310k is mostly highway miles and even though it's expensive at times I'm always good about doing oil changes and other routine maintenance.
GRRRRRRRR.... Anyone have a stick of dynamite? This is getting ridiculous. So changed IDM Monday, while apart tested resistance from IDM plug back to injectors. Everything tested good within specs. Got it all back together and ran FORScan and after several different test all way good with no errors. Drove it Tuesday roughly 80 miles and no issues. Get up this morning and BAM check engine light is on. Grabbed regular FOXWELL scan tool and P1316 is showing. Had to wait till I got home to run FORScan. States cylinders #1,#5, #7 and #4 High/Low and states Waste Gate boost High. I just want to take a sludge hammer to it at this point. Anyone have any ideas?
Also found this (photo attached)
Did you do the $0.52 mod? Could be loose UVCH on passenger side.
Injectors are suspect. Improper shimming can cause those codes.
Or, it could be IDM.
That GPCM pigtail will need to be replaced. I strongly recommend removing that harness and changing pigtail on bench. I used an International ‘repair kit’ on a couple of trucks, but it’s been awhile. Not sure if that is still an option.
Did you do the $0.52 mod? Could be loose UVCH on passenger side.
Injectors are suspect. Improper shimming can cause those codes.
Or, it could be IDM.
That GPCM pigtail will need to be replaced. I strongly recommend removing that harness and changing pigtail on bench. I used an International ‘repair kit’ on a couple of trucks, but it’s been awhile. Not sure if that is still an option.
What 0.52 cent MOD? I ended up replacing passenger side pigtail last night on the UVCH. Ran all test minus actually starting the truck.. Just came back with codes I'm not concerned about, P1000 and one for my EBP sensor that I had deleted yrs ago.. I was going to pull solenoids and check if any where shimmed. But was late and needed to be up at 6am for a 5 hour drive.
I'm praying that it isn't the IDM since I just got it. As for the other pigtail, that will have to wait.. I'll let everyone know the outcome on this later today.. But may still be looking for that stick of dynamite. LOL
If you decide to blow it up, be sure to record it so we all can share in the victory/agony of defeat.
LMAOOOOO. Well so far so good this morning. But now have the mysterious starter issue. One second it starts and next second have to beat the crap out of the starter. Luckily I have a 4" lift and can just reach under easily. Definitely need to get this dark cloud away from me.
This is how the Denso sounds when starting a 7.3L and pretty dang close to what the 6.7L sounds like based on what I have been told by trusted sources.
And just how much for that pretty lil starter? This just started happening last week. Then it went away and this morning after refueling it happened again.
And just how much for that pretty lil starter? This just started happening last week. Then it went away and this morning after refueling it happened again.
Denso is about $350 shipped and is by far the best and most reliable starter you can buy. You can rebuild it yourself forever, but it’s gonna be awhile before you need to do anything to it. No comparison at all to any POS (chinesey) starter from the autoparts store.
I don't remember if your truck is manual or auto, but if auto drop it into neutral next time it acts up to rule out the shifter before dropping coin on a new starter or beating your's beyond repair.
And just how much for that pretty lil starter? This just started happening last week. Then it went away and this morning after refueling it happened again.
Well sir, I posted a direct link to the Denso starter on the CNC Fabrication website. The only "mystery" price is what you can get a 6.7L starter for and if you have or need the right 7.3L starter.
Udsuth78 has some good advice for you as well. You may want to check the connections on the starter too as you are beating the heck out of it. Perhaps this is your lucky day and one of the wires is a bit loose.
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