Think it’s time to pull the engine
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
Think it’s time to pull the engine
I have a knock that just started. I thought it was a fuel knock at first because it would go away when I let off the throttle. I pulled the pass valve cover and checked torques on injectors because I only have 5k on them. It quickly went to knock all the time. Pulled valve cover again and unplugging #1 makes it go away, so I swapped it for a 9th injector I ordered from full force and it continues to knock.
At this point I’m thinking piston. Any other things I should check before I go down that road?
If I pull the engine to replace the pistons how far do I go? 2000 with 240k. Still runs great and no excessive blow by.
Thanks for any input.
At this point I’m thinking piston. Any other things I should check before I go down that road?
If I pull the engine to replace the pistons how far do I go? 2000 with 240k. Still runs great and no excessive blow by.
Thanks for any input.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
I wouldn't pull the engine just yet. What are we working with? What mods have been done, what diagnostic tool do you have available, what other testing have you done? Fuel issue is still you're most likely culprit, so pressure tests and inspections for possible leaks are top of the list. Lots of things can cause a diesel to knock and on these motors lots of things can cause lots of things to knock.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
The truck came with an oil crossover and a built valve body. The injectors were worn out when I got it this year. I installed 180cc stock nozzle injectors and a diesel site ball bearing turbo. Replaced the up pipes, glow plugs, harness. Hydra with 1023 tunes. I have a snap on scanner and a dongle with the FORScan app.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Cool, since none are listed I'm assuming the fuel system is original. I suggest inspecting the fuel lines from tank to heads. Any connections that might look damp or otherwise compromised need repaired or replaced. I would pay extra attention to the line from the bowl to the passenger head. # 1 is the end of the line on that side so any air trapped or pressure problems would likely show there.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 106
From: Albuquerque
Slow down on pulling the engine! LOL
Have you done a hutch mod, if not , you may have sludge in your pickup screens , You can test this out by removing the fuel line from the pump and using a air hose to blow it out of the way, make sure to take your gas cap off !
I see you say you have a damp fuel line, could be pulling some air ?
Have you done a hutch mod, if not , you may have sludge in your pickup screens , You can test this out by removing the fuel line from the pump and using a air hose to blow it out of the way, make sure to take your gas cap off !
I see you say you have a damp fuel line, could be pulling some air ?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,352
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
The fellas above have some great ideas and things for you to check before pulling that hunk of metal out of the truck. If you find you want to pull the engine anyway or if that is the course of action you decide on based on testing and diagnosis, the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder has removal procedures that may help you out a bit.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Alright that's a a start. You can try to snug it up, but most likely the rubber has washed out. There are seal kits available to replace the rubbers. There are also kits that replace the whole line with braided flex line. I would keep checking all the connections all the way back to the tank, and as Listor said the hutch mod is highly recommended, and Sous already pointed you towards the the tech folder at the top of the page. There is quite a bit of useful information to keep your 7.3 on the road in there. Keep us posted on how things go
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
Is there pressure at the oil filler cap while running? (Blow by test)
If not, no reason to pull engine.
A fuel leak post filter will not affect the way the truck runs at idle. I just replaced a metal line on engine that was a GUSHER. Truck ran fine.
It’s a little amusing you had such little confidence in those injectors that you apparently bought an extra one. Having (2) bad injectors is still an option - but let’s check a few other things first.
What brand glow plugs did you use?
With engine running and VC’s off, is there the same amount of oil coming from the diverters on the injectors?
What PERDELS are you seeing?
If not, no reason to pull engine.
A fuel leak post filter will not affect the way the truck runs at idle. I just replaced a metal line on engine that was a GUSHER. Truck ran fine.
It’s a little amusing you had such little confidence in those injectors that you apparently bought an extra one. Having (2) bad injectors is still an option - but let’s check a few other things first.
What brand glow plugs did you use?
With engine running and VC’s off, is there the same amount of oil coming from the diverters on the injectors?
What PERDELS are you seeing?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 219
From: Northwest
A 20 year old engine with 240k miles. Someone, either the PO or you have gotten your money's worth out of that engine. That knock is not going to heal up. Even if you do make a band aid repair at this point, you still have an engine that is run out.... The truck is at the point of it "nickle and diming" you to death. Next will be the transmission, differentials, steering and front end repairs. If you have a truck you are in Love with..... Rehab it from front to back. If not, sell it to someone who will restore it or just part it out.
Do you have the resources to make this kind of repair ? Mechanical ability, shop, money, time, etc?
Hobo
Do you have the resources to make this kind of repair ? Mechanical ability, shop, money, time, etc?
Hobo
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
Likes: 891
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
A 20 year old engine with 240k miles. Someone, either the PO or you have gotten your money's worth out of that engine. That knock is not going to heal up. Even if you do make a band aid repair at this point, you still have an engine that is run out.... The truck is at the point of it "nickle and diming" you to death. Next will be the transmission, differentials, steering and front end repairs. If you have a truck you are in Love with..... Rehab it from front to back. If not, sell it to someone who will restore it or just part it out.
Do you have the resources to make this kind of repair ? Mechanical ability, shop, money, time, etc?
Hobo
Do you have the resources to make this kind of repair ? Mechanical ability, shop, money, time, etc?
Hobo
It's far from being "broken in"...I'll grant you that. I have 350k on mine....doesn't perform like it's "run out".
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: May 2020
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I ordered new fuel lines last night, going to try and remain hopeful.
I’ve pulled them out before, mostly to reseal them. The 6.0 in a van is a blast if you haven’t tried it.
I bought ford glow plugs, and it wasn’t lack of confidence in the injectors it was not being able to get one right away if I needed it. And pulling one and leaving truck apart for week while waiting for ups doesn’t work for me.
The perdels do seem to change quite a bit, meaning up in the 5’s sometimes but not always the same cylinders.
I’ve pulled them out before, mostly to reseal them. The 6.0 in a van is a blast if you haven’t tried it.
I bought ford glow plugs, and it wasn’t lack of confidence in the injectors it was not being able to get one right away if I needed it. And pulling one and leaving truck apart for week while waiting for ups doesn’t work for me.
The perdels do seem to change quite a bit, meaning up in the 5’s sometimes but not always the same cylinders.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
A 20 year old engine with 240k miles. Someone, either the PO or you have gotten your money's worth out of that engine. That knock is not going to heal up. Even if you do make a band aid repair at this point, you still have an engine that is run out.... The truck is at the point of it "nickle and diming" you to death. Next will be the transmission, differentials, steering and front end repairs. If you have a truck you are in Love with..... Rehab it from front to back. If not, sell it to someone who will restore it or just part it out.
Do you have the resources to make this kind of repair ? Mechanical ability, shop, money, time, etc?
Hobo
Do you have the resources to make this kind of repair ? Mechanical ability, shop, money, time, etc?
Hobo
Banned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 3,541
Likes: 458
these motors are toast once 200k rolls around! Time for a Cummins swap.
Banned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 3,541
Likes: 458
The engine definitely is not worn out, it runs with the new trucks. If I have to rebuild the engine I will. New and old are both expensive, any idea how much a 2021 f350 diesel dually 4x4 lariat costs? That’s a lot of parts. I do have the ability, shop, money, time is harder to come by.