Think it’s time to pull the engine
I got a motor swapped in a old Toyota today I’ve been meaning to get out of my way. Drove the 7.3 and it’s got some fuel smoke at a warm idle, I did a contribution test and it failed 2,3,and 7 however it still runs out great just feels slightly off at idle and smokes a little. I left the truck at the shop so hopefully I’ll get some diag time into it while I wait for my new fuel lines to show up from riff raff.
The AVERAGE mileage of the trucks I work on easily exceeds 200k miles. I’ve put fresh injectors in (2) trucks this year with over 300k miles. (I am south of the rust belt... ) My standard response to ‘How much is this truck worth?’ is ‘How much maintenance does it need?’ It’s rarely worth fixing rust - but for the right price, everything else is fair game.
Love my Toyota’s. Current fleet includes my ‘84 4Runner ‘crawler’ with lockers, dual t-cases, twin-stick, etc. and my son’s project ‘86 Custom Cab 4wd 5spd with 22R turbo.
Last edited by SkySkiJason; Jan 25, 2021 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Added (GOOD)
https://www.genome.gov/about-genomic...ion-Fact-Sheet
It is not related to the testing of a 7.3L in anyway, but it is a play on words (acronym in this case) that brings a bit of humor (or sadness based on your view) to the events over the past 12 months.
Thanks.... That explains how an International 6.9 eventually gets to be a Ford third-generation 6.7L Power Stroke® V8 Turbo Diesel engine
My 200k mile benchmark is "across the board" .........
One owner, excellent maintained, heaviest load is 5 bags of groceries, never pulled a trailer, parked in a garage, lives in a state below the Mason Dixon line, never need to plug it in.. I agree that it will run 300k miles.
Fleet truck, hot shot runner, pulling a gooseneck with 30k, north of the Mason Dixon line, several different drivers, death wobble, salt build up on frame and body, out of balance tires (shook to pieces).. 200k and it's toast.
We have many, many prospective buyers coming on FTE asking "Should I buy this Truck?".... After some discussion, it becomes evident if they Should... or ... Should Not buy that truck....
Hobo
The OP is looking for some "Warm and Fuzzy"..... He came to the wrong place to find it.
Hobo
OP wasn't looking for a warm fuzzy, he was looking for informed opinions and help with a course of action. You gave your opinion and others are giving theirs.
We'll see how it goes over time but my bet is he'll end up with a good running motor.
OP wasn't looking for a warm fuzzy, he was looking for informed opinions and help with a course of action. You gave your opinion and others are giving theirs.
We'll see how it goes over time but my bet is he'll end up with a good running motor.
My bet is he will "Band-aid" it... Come back here and brag on how well it runs. When it fails he will be quiet as a Church Mouse.
Hobo
I got a motor swapped in a old Toyota today I’ve been meaning to get out of my way. Drove the 7.3 and it’s got some fuel smoke at a warm idle, I did a contribution test and it failed 2,3,and 7 however it still runs out great just feels slightly off at idle and smokes a little. I left the truck at the shop so hopefully I’ll get some diag time into it while I wait for my new fuel lines to show up from riff raff.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

The fact is you are almost certainly wrong and your chicken little comments make you sound uninformed and silly - albeit annoying.
The culture of this particular forum is one of a helpful nature and most of us embrace that. I have met literally 100’s of people that have contributed to this forum over the years and can say without a doubt most of the regular posters here are among the nicest people on earth.
Ive take a couple of cheap shots at an injector builder in this thread, but I have personally had multiple negative experiences with that company and would not recommend them to - well, even you.

Buzz test, CCT, Perdels first and if problem persists in that cylinder, swap the injector with a ‘better’ one and see if problem follows. If it does not follow, there are some other things we can look for.
I’ve never been a regular poster on any of them, but I’ve been a lurker on pretty much every PSD forum and a few other related communities since W. was still in office, so I’ve seen a few. I’ve been reading content from users in this thread across multiple forums for years, even. I’ve been a long time member here but never a regular poster. I find this particular forum is positive, helpful, and the users tend to be mature and articulate, in addition to helpful. These are things I appreciate in a community, and I think others do too. More than enough places on the internet to spout off and stir things up anonymously if you want to. Feel free to uproot and fit in over there if you don’t fit in over here.

The fact is you are almost certainly wrong and your chicken little comments make you sound uninformed and silly - albeit annoying.
The culture of this particular forum is one of a helpful nature and most of us embrace that. I have met literally 100’s of people that have contributed to this forum over the years and can say without a doubt most of the regular posters here are among the nicest people on earth.
............
I find this particular forum is positive, helpful, and the users tend to be mature and articulate, in addition to helpful. These are things I appreciate in a community, and I think others do too. More than enough places on the internet to spout off and stir things up anonymously if you want to. Feel free to uproot and fit in over there if you don’t fit in over here.
To the OP, well the detour has distracted from the point of your tread. I saw SSJ post what I was thinking of as a good investigation step up above. Swap cylinders with the suspect injector and see if it follows. Of course this would be after you’ve completed some of their less intrusive checks.
FWIW Dad’s 7.3 has 324k.
I had never heard any of the injectors I had purchased being poor quality, I would never have bought them. The truck ran great for the first 5k or so miles. Then this knock appeared, which is significantly louder when engine is cold. Followed by smoke at idle and rough starts. I hooked a gauge up today to the drain valve and it reads 80psi at idle, did not have time to drive it. I did notice that the icp sensor has the small hex on it so I know it’s aftermarket, so I will be replacing that for sure.
The OEM ICP sensor has a small hex nut that is best removed with a crows foot. Later OE ICPs have a larger easy-to-grab nut. If the ICP has an oily connector it is bad or getting there fast.
















