When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I wouldn’t run any 6.7 Ford just because of the fuel pump, let alone all the other garbage that has to fall off the engine to get it to run right. Cummins stepped in it with the 19’s and 20’s by putting that CP4 pump on it but they went back to the CP3 for 2021 lol. At least they’re men enough to admit that was a lousy idea and really hurt their brand.
I’ve worked on both at the dealership. The ford 6.7 is a beast. Anything Chrysler is absolute garbage! I often wondered how the ram, jeep, dodge, salesman sleep at night know the complete garbage they sell to people.
These engines don’t have bottom end failures very often. A rod knock is highly unlikely, but a ‘fuel’ knock is HIGHLY likely.
Im sorry to pick on you about confidence in the injectors. An injector failure that renders the truck undriveable is very unlikely. For example, you probably have one (2?) now.
I would consider swapping that injector for another one and see if the problem follows after checking resistance, etc (and ruling out a wiring problem).
These engines don’t have bottom end failures very often. A rod knock is highly unlikely, but a ‘fuel’ knock is HIGHLY likely.
Im sorry to pick on you about confidence in the injectors. An injector failure that renders the truck undriveable is very unlikely. For example, you probably have one (2?) now.
I would consider swapping that injector for another one and see if the problem follows after checking resistance, etc (and ruling out a wiring problem).
Buzz test OK?
I just drove the truck to the shop to work on another rig but towards the end of the drive I turned the radio down and I almost thought the noise was gone. So I’m feeling better at this point. I turned the truck off so my heeler wouldn’t lock my doors for me with the key in the ignition and when I went to move the truck right after sitting a minute or two I had a long crank which is not normal for this truck.
It's far from being "broken in"...I'll grant you that. I have 350k on mine....doesn't perform like it's "run out".
____________
My 200k mile benchmark is "across the board" .........
One owner, excellent maintained, heaviest load is 5 bags of groceries, never pulled a trailer, parked in a garage, lives in a state below the Mason Dixon line, never need to plug it in.. I agree that it will run 300k miles.
Fleet truck, hot shot runner, pulling a gooseneck with 30k, north of the Mason Dixon line, several different drivers, death wobble, salt build up on frame and body, out of balance tires (shook to pieces).. 200k and it's toast.
We have many, many prospective buyers coming on FTE asking "Should I buy this Truck?".... After some discussion, it becomes evident if they Should... or ... Should Not buy that truck....
Damn, I spend the afternoon buttoning up my daughters jeep and resealing my hpo fittings come back to find all this negativity. Rod knock or piston/cylinder problem less likely to be going away when unplugging the injector. Work through the fuel system make sure it's getting plenty of clean airfree fuel at proper #.
Damn, I spend the afternoon buttoning up my daughters jeep and resealing my hpo fittings come back to find all this negativity. Rod knock or piston/cylinder problem less likely to be going away when unplugging the injector. Work through the fuel system make sure it's getting plenty of clean airfree fuel at proper #.
I would have to agree. One person telling me to put a Cummins in it and another telling me 200k is too many miles. Didn’t ask for either of there opinions and wonder why they are trolling a 7.3 forum.
I got a motor swapped in a old Toyota today I’ve been meaning to get out of my way. Drove the 7.3 and it’s got some fuel smoke at a warm idle, I did a contribution test and it failed 2,3,and 7 however it still runs out great just feels slightly off at idle and smokes a little. I left the truck at the shop so hopefully I’ll get some diag time into it while I wait for my new fuel lines to show up from riff raff.
I have a knock that just started. I thought it was a fuel knock at first because it would go away when I let off the throttle. I pulled the pass valve cover and checked torques on injectors because I only have 5k on them. It quickly went to knock all the time. Pulled valve cover again and unplugging #1 makes it go away, so I swapped it for a 9th injector I ordered from full force and it continues to knock.
At this point I’m thinking piston. Any other things I should check before I go down that road?
If I pull the engine to replace the pistons how far do I go? 2000 with 240k. Still runs great and no excessive blow by.
Thanks for any input.
_____________
Hmmmmm .... Sounds like a man asking for opinions.
_____________
Hmmmmm .... Sounds like a man asking for opinions.
Hobo
yeah on diagnosis strategies on a knock. Not on how long you feel one should own a truck. I have a couple rigs over 200k and the maintenance is far less than a payment. This truck is clean and rust free. Have a great night and move on.
I would have to agree. One person telling me to put a Cummins in it and another telling me 200k is too many miles. Didn’t ask for either of there opinions and wonder why they are trolling a 7.3 forum.
I got a motor swapped in a old Toyota today I’ve been meaning to get out of my way. Drove the 7.3 and it’s got some fuel smoke at a warm idle, I did a contribution test and it failed 2,3,and 7 however it still runs out great just feels slightly off at idle and smokes a little. I left the truck at the shop so hopefully I’ll get some diag time into it while I wait for my new fuel lines to show up from riff raff.
What kind of old Yota? The pickups from 79 through 94 I think were some tough little *******s. That 22r is damn near indestructible. Pound for pound the best 4x4 ever made, jeeps can suck a fat one.
I wouldn't put much stock in that cct it's more often ghosts and false positives. I did have a bad motor with 2 completely trashed cylinders(5&7). It never flagged them.
86 yota pu, the 22r is pretty tough until you quit changing the oil and keeping it full. She drove it for three weeks with the oil light on with it making noise for the last week of that. Added a window to the block.
I agree on the cct, sure would be nice to be able to carry out the power balance test.
86 yota pu, the 22r is pretty tough until you quit changing the oil and keeping it full. She drove it for three weeks with the oil light on with it making noise for the last week of that. Added a window to the block.
I agree on the cct, sure would be nice to be able to carry out the power balance test.
Yeah they do require oil. You don't even have to change it all that often, but do need to have something in there. At least the motors are cheap and easy to find.
For those in the future following along for troubleshooting procedures and wanting to know what PCR means, here is a basic description found via Google:
It is not related to the testing of a 7.3L in anyway, but it is a play on words (acronym in this case) that brings a bit of humor (or sadness based on your view) to the events over the past 12 months.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.