From Wikipedia:

A jet nut,[1] also known as a k-nut,[1][2][3] is a special type of hex locknut that is commonly used in the aerospace and automotive racing industries.[3]

It has a flange on one end of the nut, the hex is smaller than a standard sized hex nut, and it is shorter than a standard hex nut. It achieves its locking action by using an elliptical offset on the un-flanged end of the nut.[4]


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_nut

 

Leonard, it looks like you have jet nuts for the 4 pedestal holes, the 4 T4 bracket to pedestal holes and 4 for the turbo to T4 bracket, is that right?

Do you plan to upload pictures and update the parts list when you get the studs in?

Using red loctite to secure the studs in place well prior to installing the hardware and jet nuts?

 

Exactamundo

 

So they squeeze it...

 

Yes, you could say that aerospace engineers like to do that. To their nuts that is.

 

3/8” is kinda early for stepping up from blue to red. It will work by size there, but don't expect the bolt to not shear on disassembly without applying heat, somehow, around the engine wires...

3/4” is the red or blue cutoff.

​​But, neither will have their "locking" properties above 300*, unless you use Red 272, which will hold till 450*, but is pretty useless as a locker on the turbo flange, it will hold once the parts cool back below 450* But realistically the truck will be shut off by then, so the road vibrations you are hoping to gaurd against will still be able to loosen normal nuts, any nylocks nut will melt the nylon insert above their own temps too, also depends on which nylock you use, cheapie Chinese or USA made makes a big difference. Now on the other mounting bolts away from that heat level, yeah 300* blue will hold, and come apart on disassembly.

Blue and red, largely misunderstood codes. Pick the right loctite number for the job

 

I was stating red to hold the studs in place, not the nuts. The nuts will need to be tightened down on secured studs, which were freely spun in by hand during installation.

 

Ahh. My bad. Makes sense

 

You guys that have done this conversion would know better. Is there any concern on clearance issues getting everything to fit in using studs (having enough space to clear the studs when installing pedestal, turbo, etc? Just something I was thinking about. Wouldn't want to install studs only to find out I don't have enough clearance to fit a piece in there.

 

There should not be because the pieces go in separately and there is plenty of room under the turbo for the back pedestal plate studs.

For example, the pedestal plate studs would be installed in the block. Then the flat pedestal plate would be installed. Then the T4 up-pipe assembly studs would be installed in the pedestal plate and the T4 up-pipe assembly would fit over the studs.

Granted, the studs should not be ridiculously long, but long enough for the flange nuts to be 10% on the stud.

 

Turbo to pedestal should be fine. I actually wondered why the kit didn’t use studs as install would probably be easier.

Plate to engine should be fine. Might need some extra clearance for the fuel line as it runs close to one of the bolts and has to be “adjusted” already.

Plate to pedestal may cause issues when moving the uppipes and such around trying to squeeze the downpipe in.

My opinion is related to the CSD kit.

Edit: Sous and myself posting at the same time. My terminology: I’m calling the “plate” the flat piece that bolts to the engine. The “pedestal” is the part that has the uppipes attached and bolts to the flat plate.

 

Let's use CSD's terminology so we're all on the same page.
Pedestal Plate = plate that bolts to the block.
Up Pipe Assembly = T4 flange, up pipes, etc etc.

Crap. It looks like the Up Pipe Assembly to Pedestal Plate bolts are 3/8"-16 instead of M10x1.25.

Screw it. I'm going to use a helicoil and convert it to M10x1.25 since I have them.

 

Leonard, good idea to keep the terminology correct, I have edited my post to reflect the correct names,

Regarding the 3/8" vs M10 bolts, could I ask you to do the FTE community a big favor... Find the part number and supplier for the 3/8" studs and jet nuts for your parts list for future use.

Thanks for blazing the trail on a new mounting method, it is good to have choices.

 

I don't think "I" would use studs to mount the plate to the block....but, that's me.

 

Please do, as I would love to go this route with a CSD kit