If you are going to eliminate the electric heater you will also be eliminating the wye fitting and reinstalling the block drain valve under the distributor. The coolant flow on these engines is very simple - from the cylinder head to any temperature control valve, to the heater, and from the heater to the suction side of the coolant pump. To answer your question, yes. You can cap off all the heater hose connections and safely run the engine.

 

I have an oil pan gasket kit coming. I think I will attempt the plate removal for now. Clean up best I can, add oil and then do an oil pan drop later. Just try to see what is going on.



The shut off valve, like you have pictured (some minor plumbing I see), is just for draining water from the engine? And I would put that on the driver side lower block hole below the distributor? This is different than the heater shut on/off valve which would go on top of the head on the passenger side? If I did do the work on the heater later, do I then reattach a hose to that shut off valve and run it up to the Y? Or do I just have one hose from the heater shut off/on valve, on the head, to the heater with the other hose from the heater to return water to the water pump and just leave that lower shut off valve as an external valve?
Phil

 

I'm sorry. So is Future #1 correct or Future #2? I forgot to ask the question clearly.
Phil

 

Future #1 is correct.

 

Where that "hot start" is connected under the distributor is where the original block drain valve goes. Maybe I misunderstood that you were going to remove the hot start. Your "Future #1" is correct. And fwiw, your hot start was installed incorrectly anyway.

 

So, got it to run for about 10 minutes with mechanical oil gauge showing I have oil pressure.
Not long enough to get up to temperature to check the radiator.
After that I could not get a restart for a couple of weeks as the carburetor started leaking. I had rebuilt the carburetor and thought I did a good job. Did a second rebuild.
So about every other day I can get the engine started but not long enough to let it run and idle (one time). Then I lose it and it won't restart and floods.
Then I pull the carburetor, soak up the fuel in the intake manifold, put my battery on the charger and wait a day or two to try again.
I can't tell where the carburetor is leaking as once fuel gets on it it runs all over.
Seems to start where the pump operating rod comes out.
I've been reading in the forum, and people have ideas but none that seems to help me.
When I try to start I do full choke, a little shot of ether and try not to give it any gas unless it coughs. Should I be doing something different?
Once it floods it ends my day as battery goes down and engine does not even cough.
Any thoughts?

 

Phil you could take a ride over to my house the weekend of the 11th of July. We have a few FTEr coming together for small meet. You pick the brains of some pretty smart people. Duane is going to be here along with the others.

 

Thanks for the invite. I will certainly consider it.

 

Bob, do you the FTE banner for your get together? And are you calling it the Wisconsin meet?

 

Okay, who knew... She started and I actually kept it running with the carburetor not seeming to leak (I guess the fuel was being used) for 15 mins or long enough for the temperature to get high enough to inform me my radiator is shot. Pretty much dumped all the coolant onto the garage floor. I could not tell where it was coming from except bottom of the radiator. I think it is significant enough (and also based on what the radiator guy who boiled it out said) that I need a new one. So, reading the forum and shopping online I need your guidance in what to purchase. I don't want to spend $$$ for an original. My truck will never be a show truck. LMC seems to have what I need but I could not tell by the drawing where the inlet/outlets are located. Anyone know anything about them and their radiator? I have not used them for parts yet. Others mentioned Champion, Superior, US radiator...
The search is confusing as no one seems to have exactly what I think I need (flathead 226). Some seem to indicate the radiator they have is for my truck but then say "chevy engine" as well as more confusion for me. Most have the inlet on top, not in the center, but to the side. Is that doable for my truck? I just want what will fit and work for my truck. As always, suggestions appreciated. Phil

 

Way to stay with it, Phil. Good to know you got her running.

I bought a new radiator from LMC for my 226 about 8 years ago. The fitment is good, the look is very close to original, and performance has been flawless. I didn't find a better option when searching at the time.

For a separate V8 project, I bought an aluminum Champion. Certainly not stock looking but it was a third the cost of a copper/aluminum repop and seems really well constructed.

 

Thanks. I will check with LMC on Monday.

 

So I am waiting on a new radiator from LMC and decided to start some wiring. I am hoping she will still fire up when I install the radiator. The wiring is totally shot and I am finding the PO has made many modifications so I think instead of doing an entire harness setup I am going to wire circuits as I need them. I now have my generator and voltage regulator connected. Went in the cab and pulled the gauge cluster. I found the circuit breakers appear to be from a 1951 and the ignition switch also from a 1951. I think both will work and that is what I an asking today (pics). I also found mounted on the engine firewall another electrical connector and I do not know what it is (pic) so need your help in identifying. I cannot seem to find it on my wiring diagram?







First question. Should I just forget the entire old wiring setup and modernize with a fuse block? Except everything I can find/read about fuse blocks does not discuss/show for a 6 volt system. Everything is people switching to a 12 volt system. Is 6 volt fuse block just not done? If this is the way to go can you advise me on information/videos on how to do it?

Second question. If I am staying with the old wiring setup, will this circuit breaker work (pic)? And is the old circuit breaker any good. It seems to be the same as the 49/50 breaker having a 15 amp and a 30 amp with the connection link. The PO said it use to run. I have some pictures for you to check out. One of them I have labeled with how I think the wiring should go based on the 49 wiring diagram. Let me know.

Third question. What is this connector mounted on my engine firewall (see pic).

As always, thanks for the advise. Phil

 

This wiring is a mess. First thing I want to mention is electrical wire should never be run through metal without a rubber insulated grommet.

6 volt is perfectly find to operate on unless you want to run a modern convenience like are modern sound system or air condition. The trick with a 6 volt system is very dependent on running proper sized wire to handle the current, 6 volt pulls twice the current as 12 volt so a stock wiring harness, as long as it's in good shape, will easily handle a 12 system. Good, clean connections, especially grounds are also very important. Fuses and circuit breakers will handle 6 or 12 volts as long as they are rated to handle the voltage.

I rewired my '48 panel from the cab to the front and from the cab back. I started in the cab, under the dash out of the firewall and then split off and went to the front and back. I didn't use a bought wiring harness, just used spooled wire I have. I own an industrial electrical business so I literally have thousands of feet of different gauge wire and colors so it can be a little harder for someone who doesn't have it on hand. Unless you are planning on a show truck I would stay away from a reproduction harness. I installed one on my '49 F-2 and after 20 years it looked almost as bad as the original harness, frayed connection and bare wires.

The terminal board on the firewall in your picture is something someone added, probably used to branch off power to some accessory.

 

Thanks Bob. A couple of follow up questions. Can I assume the circuit breakers are good? For wire size, I cannot find a diagram that lists wire sizes for the 49 wiring. I thought I had seen it somewhere in the forum but cannot recapture. Does it exist, or did I just imagine it? It does seem on the wiring diagram in the manual that some wires are drawn thicker so I would think those should be thicker wire. Should I be thinking 8, 10 and 12 gauge for my wiring? Phil