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i too think it is the coil . The points will be fine but you can change to a 12v condenser or you will burn out 6v . Starter is no prblem they work on 12v
No such thing as a 6V or 12V condenser. Irrespective of applied primary voltage (6V, 12V, 24V, 32V) the condensers are made to withstand the reverse EMF voltage made by the coil as it's magnetic field collapses when the points open. That is ~80-100 volts for a typical iron core type ignition coil.
FYI: Condenser is also a very archaic term for a capacitor ("Cap").
Seems that epoxy potted coils are not very abundant around here. I see a Bosch 00012 on Amazon for sale. Not clear info but seems to be epoxy and internal resistance (from comments if those are accurate). Would this be a good purchase Mixer Man?
Seems that epoxy potted coils are not very abundant around here. I see a Bosch 00012 on Amazon for sale. Not clear info but seems to be epoxy and internal resistance (from comments if those are accurate). Would this be a good purchase Mixer Man?
I think so. It's the exact one I bought on January 29, 2018. I noticed an improvement in starting immediately, but at the same time I also installed the new resistive plug wires, so not conclusive. I had the brown solid core plug wires before too.
Well the new coil, spark plug wires and condenser seems to be the ticket. Have been able to start and run the engine 2 days in a row. Vacuum gauge shows "normal motor". So, I think I have finally taken another baby step. Thanks for the help. Now I will be coming with new and finally different questions as I move along with this truck. I will try to link the video of the engine running and a picture of the vacuum gauge reading.
Now that we have it running, I would like to actually be able to sit in the cab and start the engine instead of my hot wire set up. I have an ignition switch ready to install. So now need your help with wiring the ignition (remember, I currently have no wiring and am moving forward with 12 volt conversion). I've read so many different entries in the forum about this wiring that I am not really sure which one is correct for me. It seems everyone is tweeking their project a little differently, although it seems everyone ends up in the correct place. I have attached a drawing of what I think the wiring should be like but need you to look it over and correct me, add your thoughts, etc.
I would like to use the starter button (will be using a 2 wire button), but only when the key is in the "on" position.
Do not want the starter button to be a constant 'hot".
Do not want to want to use rotating the key to "key start".
Not sure what connects to the "I" terminal of the relay/solenoid (don't know what to call it now that I got use to starter relay when it was 6 volt and one terminal).
Please let me know what is correct for what I want. Thanks as usual for your help. Phil
Top right. Never mind the ballast resistor. Correct term is relay, (a switch where low current or voltage is used to switch a higher current or voltage). The term solenoid is a mechanical device actuated by a built in relay.
Those all have an error in the wiring from the "I" terminal. See corrected version below. If he's using an internally ballasted coil, there's no point in hooking up the "I" to anything.
Those all have an error in the wiring from the "I" terminal. See corrected version below. If he's using an internally ballasted coil, there's no point in hooking up the "I" to anything.
Absolutely. I overlooked that point. The "I" terminal is for the hot start. Corrected:
One thing that worries me about all of these schematics, and these electrical systems in general, is the lack of fuses.
Since you’re rewiring the truck, why not install a fuse panel? The old circuit breakers on the instrument cluster are 70 years old and not very good to start with.
So I have a couple of follow up questions. Yes, I plan on installing a fuse panel (those will be future questions), but for now I thought I could install an ignition system just to be able to start the truck from sitting in the cab and using a key. Do I need a fuse somewhere in this part? Leads me to my follow up questions. The ignition I have, I believe, is for a 56+ as it has four terminals. Can I still use it using the diagram you sent me and just not use the "S" terminal? And will I ever use the "I" terminal on the relay as I currently am using a 12 volt marine relay with only one small terminal (see pic)? Or should I buy an official Ford relay with both the S and I terminals (1956 - 79)?
One thing that worries me about all of these schematics, and these electrical systems in general, is the lack of fuses.
Since you’re rewiring the truck, why not install a fuse panel? The old circuit breakers on the instrument cluster are 70 years old and not very good to start with.
Not all circuits require a fuse or circuit breaker, nor would it be desireable. Circuit breakers, unlike food, do not have an expiration date, but the circuit breakers mounted to the instrument cluster protect ALL circuits which when tripped takes out every circuit attached to it, which is not really desirable. Almost everyone that rewires a truck adds a fuse or breaker panel. In the diagrams there are circuit leads that go to a hot buss and a switched buss which would lead to fuse/breaker distribution points. In my opinion the best way to go would be the addition of a fuse/relay panel which offers the best of both worlds.
So I have a couple of follow up questions. Yes, I plan on installing a fuse panel (those will be future questions), but for now I thought I could install an ignition system just to be able to start the truck from sitting in the cab and using a key. Do I need a fuse somewhere in this part? Leads me to my follow up questions. The ignition I have, I believe, is for a 56+ as it has four terminals. Can I still use it using the diagram you sent me and just not use the "S" terminal? And will I ever use the "I" terminal on the relay as I currently am using a 12 volt marine relay with only one small terminal (see pic)? Or should I buy an official Ford relay with both the S and I terminals (1956 - 79)?
The center post on that ignition switch is for twist-key starting, you don't need to use it in your case. The relay you are using looks to be case grounded, but I wouldn't guarantee it without seeing a schematic of it. Does the 12V sticker mean it's hot or does it mean this is where you attach the feed? Three terminal relays are wired both ways.
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