If you have the operators manual, the wire gauges are in the reference section, as I recall. If you don't have one available, Google"1948 ford wire gauge wiring diagram". That should get you to a posting on the Ford Barn with the gauges and colors for the cars. It is completely suitable for the truck gauges. I also found much value from a laminated enlarged diagram during the rewiring process. Look at classiccarwiring.com. Best $25 I ever spent.

 

Okay, I feel like Bill Murray stuck in "Ground Hog Day". I got the radiator in and purchased the laminated wiring diagram and was pretty thrilled to be moving forward. I have some electrical questions but they will have to wait because I cannot get the truck running again. I am still thinking it is the carburetor as I have spark. I rewired the distributor, put in new condenser, checked the points, new coil and checked electrical flow through coil, points, and plug wires. So here is my routine. I put in my recharged battery, check to see if I have spark to my plugs, bolt in my carburetor, try to start with nothing happening. End of session. Pull my battery and put it on the charger, pull the carburetor and mop out the gas in my intake manifold. Then let the manifold dry out for a day or two. Then repeat. I have had my carburetor apart so many times adjusting float that I can do it blind folded. It all seems okay. In between I pulled my gauge cluster, cleaned, shined up and painted. Stripped my dash paint, sanded and primed hoping to actually get the gauge cluster, starter button and ignition in it so I can sit in the cab and start the truck. So I have other things I am doing with anticipation that I will get this thing running consistently. But I have to say, I am completely stuck. I have read all over the forum but can't really come up with a good answer why my carburetor seems to be dumping gas straight through. I can't be the first person to run into this. Is my fuel pump pushing too much gas into the carburetor? What the heck is going on? This truck should be running. What am I missing? Can I mail my carburetor to someone who has an f1 with a 226, they put it on and see if it works? Any advise is appreciated. Phil

 

Leaky or blown power valve?

 

Rather than reliving the same issue (and waking up daily to 'I Got You Babe'), do yourself a favor and send the carb to a rebuilder like Charlie NY on the Ford Barn. He did a bang-up job for me - replacing parts and testing a carb I had just rebuilt. Dumping fuel into the intake isn't right.

Contact Charlie Schwendler at cas5845@yahoo.com

 

How do I know if I have a leaky or blown power valve? When I rebuilt the carb I replaced it. Can one tell by inspecting it?
I will check in with Charlie to see what he thinks.
Again, thanks for the advice.
Phil

 

Sending the carb out might be a good idea, but if it were mine and I had to "mop gas" from the intake I think I'd put the carb on the bench and fill the float chamber and see if I could determine where all the fuel is coming from. Either the float/needle/seat or power valve. They aren't that complicated.

 

I just decided to take my carburetor apart again. Is the power valve you are referring to the same as the power bypass jet (I see in MAC's catalog)? If so, I did not change that when I did my two rebuilds as it does not come in the kit. So is it possible this is what is causing all the grief? The old one I have seems to be operational and I cleaned it pretty well. Let me know what you think. Thanks, Phil

 

Did your kit include an exploded diagram of the carb? If so, plaese take a picture and post that up.
If not,what carb is it so we can look it up?

 

Okay, I will do my best here. I have two side view pictures of my carburetor. It is a 7HT. Online parts all call it a Holley 847. Hopefully that will help with identification.

Next, I did a bench test not really knowing what I was looking for. But I have 5 pictures from my discovery. As I would fill the float bowl everything was fine until I reached a certain point (see the pointer in the pics)







and then fuel started leaking from the nozzle bar assembly. So I took out the nozzle bar assembly to further see what was going on. I again filled the bowl. When it reached the level of the nozzle bar assembly where the idle tube screws in I could see the fuel. As I went a little higher it began to overflow out of that hole. Okay, so I now saw where the fuel was coming into the throat chamber of the carburetor. I replaced the nozzle bar assembly and then again filled the bowl. The fuel went to a higher level in the bowl without leaking with the nozzle bar in place. Then as I added just a little more fuel to raise the level it began to drip continuously out of the nozzle bar assembly. So the fuel was going from the bowl into the nozzle bar where the idle tube is and then dripping/running out. Since I don't know how this carburetor is suppose to work I don't know what is right and not. Which leads me to this, do I need to adjust the float so the level of fuel stays below that threshold so it won't leak? Which leads me to this, as I am cranking the engine I see the fuel line pumping fuel from the fuel pump to the carburetor, won't it just force fuel into the bowl thus creating that pressure to push gas to the higher level and again the running fuel? Just to let you know, I do not have a gas tank so I am using a snowblower gas tank hooked to my fuel pump, if that matters. Hopefully you can make some sense of what I just said. Okay I will try to attach my pictures. Phil

 

The 4th photo seems like it would be normal. There has to be fuel at the nozzle supply. Clearly there is too much fuel in the bowl in the last photo.
So I looked here:
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Hol...ng_ep_636.html
And as usual, if the fuel level is too high in the float bowl you will have issues. No suprise there.
Is there a spec given in the kit for float adjustment? Needle and seat in good shape? You replaced the nozzle bar gasket?
Try a float ajustment that gives lower fuel level in the bowl.

 

On that Holley 847 carb I would use the rebuild kit from Daytona. Google Mikes carbs 847 and he has a nice step by step video. Be super careful when removing the economizer valve, I use a big slotted screwdriver from harbor freight, slot cut in the middle to avoid pressing down on the center pin. You can rupture the diaphragm in it.

JB

 

I have watched the rebuild video a dozen times. Specs are presented two ways. One with the float on top 3/16 in. space and one with the float hanging down 1 9/16 inch. I have checked and rechecked. Saw somewhere in one of the threads where it was suggested with new gas the float could be adjusted as much as 1/4 in. difference then specs. Don't know if these specs are what is recommended now or what used to be recommended. All gaskets are in place, no residual gasket left. Like I said, I have had this thing apart a whole bunch of times to make sure all is in order. Everything seems to be in order and working. Maybe I just have to keep playing around with the float adjustment.

 

Okay, I am back and still need your help. I should probably remind you of where I am on this 49 f1 adventure. My last entry ended with me thinking I had so much fuel being dumped into the carburetor and me not being able to start the truck. Well, I switched back to where it all began when I first was able to get the engine running, using a 12 volt battery with a resister to the coil in order to turn the engine over fast enough to fire it. It seems this will have to be the plan since I again can consistently get the engine to fire and run. So I think I am going to have to do a 12 volt conversion since my 6 volt system just can't do it. I know it is because my engine is not timed right but I can't time my engine when I can't get it to run and my 6 volt battery goes down after a few tries. My current dilemma is not flooding (which I thought for sure was the problem) or too much fuel but not enough. What?? Yes, so I can get the truck started but I have to pump like crazy to keep it running. And after I have pumped and pumped it can't keep going and dies. So certainly seems like it is starving for fuel. But the good news is it will start right back up. I cannot get it to idle and now I am starting to get back firing. I tried moving the distributor a bit to see if it would at least run a little so I could tinker with it but no go. So, I am not really sure what to do to keep it going. I don't really understand vacuum and am wondering is that related to me having to pump and do I need to get a new one? I have good spark, I seem to be getting plenty of gas from the fuel pump. Do I need to play around with the carburetor float? The idle screw does not seem to have a big impact on anything and same with the fast idle (?)screw adjustment. I was and still have some leakage around the carburetor. Is it an air leak in the carburetor which is not allowing the right mix so I have to keep pumping? Don't really know how to go at this point. I am pretty happy that I can at least start and restart multiple times in order to have a chance at solving the problem. What do you all think? The engine is a 226 with a holley 847 7 HT carburetor. Thanks Phil

 

You should be able to set the timing to within a few degrees without the engine running. Just set the crank to maybe 10° before TDC on #1 (1/2" - 3/4" on the crank pulley), disconnect the wire from the coil to distributor, at the coil. Connect an ohmmeter to that wire, and to a good ground. Your ohmmeter should be showing some low value of ohms. Rotate the crank slowly towards TDC and note when the ohmmeter drops to -0-, indicating the points have opened. If the points are opening too much before TDC, rotate the distributor to retard it. Vice versa if opening after TDC. Tighten down the distributor.

The fact it starts when using 12v and a ballast makes me wonder if the coil is a 12v? Have you measured its primary resistance?

 

I have a 6 volt coil as I was set up to keep it the original system. There is no wiring other than a wire running from the starter relay to the coil with the resister in that line. My hot wiring set up. I thought with the resister in the line that would allow me to use the 6 volt coil with a 12 volt battery for now. Should I instead switch my coil to a 12 volt coil? Is that why I have to keep pumping gas to keep it running? So is it that statement I see all the time in the forum "it is not a carburetor issue, it is an ignition issue". So is it getting plenty of fuel, it's just not firing at the correct time the issue?