I’d call Ford Customer Service and request they look into a buyback. This is your third time you were stranded with engine fluid leaks.

Even f they reject the buyback you will have created a case number for your vin for the next time you have an issue.

 

Cost savings. We do have the technology to do better.

Evidence A: Chevy trucks used to have no problems with rear seals....

 

Interesting thread, and a few thoughts on various things.

They aren't. When the pencil pushers decide to have a part manufactured for half the price during the middle of a production run, that's when problems start. In this particular case, though, sounds like a fault with manufacturing. I bet the seal housing, torque converter, or something else is involved. Is the 10-speed a successor of another transmission that's been around a while, or is it a whole new design?

My Taurus SHO went through something similar. It came out for 2010MY, and ran until 2012, when they did a small redesign for 2013. Nothing big. HIDs, LED tail lights, that sort of thing. A lot of the changes that made it to the SHO with the Performance Package was all the police stuff they added to the platform to make the Police Interceptor. Some changes to the Ecoboost, maybe the fuel system for emissions and stuff, but again, nothing major, structurally. My 2013 was recalled for two things. A leaky fuel-delivery module (the assembly that drops into the fuel tank which includes the fuel pump, float, etc), and a right-side axle shaft that, from the factory, may have had it's circlip damaged on assembly, and potentially come out. Sure did. Was really nice and wobbly when the inboard CV joint came out an inch or so... My Ford dealer (who is GREAT by the way for service, at least for $40K+ cars you buy from them) had to replace the shaft, and the intermediate shaft and bearing, seals, etc. The CV joint was wallowing out the intermediate shaft... lots of metal flying around. ON EDIT: Oh, and guess what I smelled a few days before I drove it to the dealer to get both recalls done as I walked around the back of the car to get in? Gas. When I got to the dealer, I parked it way out in the middle of an empty section of the parking lot. I told the service writer I did that on purpose, he was quite thankful.

One thing that continues as a problem with the Taurus SHO platform is the AWD PTU that drives the back wheels. For some reason, the earlier cars had the same PTU, but people are still driving around without ever having changed the fluid in it. My 2013's PTU was whining like a kid that had to pee, at around 35K miles, a few thousand before I gave it back at the end of the lease. My 2016 was OK, but that only got to 22K. Lots of people say their PTU died, just as many say they haven't had a problem in over 100K miles. My 2018 has only 7K on it now, and I plan on changing out the oil very soon. We'll see how black it is when it comes out. Long story short, something went WAY off the deep end in terms of quality control on those PTUs. There are even various engineering changes over the years, and nothing seems to have helped. On the other hand, I wonder if those engineering changes were to make manufacturing cheaper. One has to wonder.

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I want a 7.3 soon. Not sure I'm going to actually get one, but I want one. I would love to see the final outcome of this, including any part #'s, TSBs, or any other info you might have that's on the receipt they give you for the warranty work.

 

well the seal has to be installed correct. most people probly just grab a big hammer and chunk of pipe . why do you think a full set of mechanic tools can easily be tens of thousands of dollars. alot of specialized tools to do the job right but its easier to use a pry bar and hammer

 

I'd like to believe the dealership mechanic wasn't doing it shadetree style. And besides, it's not rocket science.

Look how far oil pan gaskets have come. Used to be 4 piece cork and you had to cut to fit. Now they're one piece, literally lay on and bolt up. Idiot proof. Or some gaskets are just straight RTV. Again, pretty idiot proof.

There's more to why this one's failing, I'm sure.

 

not rocket science but its not always just a matter of beating the seal in and calling it a day. some of them have have specific install depths and stuff like that. if the correct tool isnt available youll have to use something makeshift. i get what your saying. maybe a poor design seal or something like that

 

Well the dealer put it on a lift and sure enough the same output shaft seal. Another 3 to 4 days here in Sheridan WY.

Ford customer service reopened the case from 3 days ago and will be in contact soon. Looking for reimbursement of hotel expenses. They gave me a nice F150 to drive till repair is done.
I am going to ask about a buyback also
Thanks for all your reples

 

Hopefully they have a really good transmission tech at the WY dealership. Someone who can tell you both what the original cause was, and why the first repairs failed. With all the pickup trucks in Wyoming, I'm sure they have decent experience.

I just thought of something I didn't check on my 7.3/10 spd test drives -- does this transmission have a dipstick to check fluid level?

 

I just thought of something I didn't check on my 7.3/10 spd test drives -- does this transmission have a dipstick to check fluid level?[/QUOTE]

No dipstick, Page 370 of the manual.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
FLUID CHECK
The automatic transmission does not have
a transmission fluid dipstick.
Your transmission is filled for life, and does
not need to be checked. Your transmission
does not consume fluid. However, if the
transmission slips or shifts slowly, or if you
notice some sign of fluid leakage, have
your vehicle checked as soon as possible.
Do not use supplemental transmission
fluid additives, treatments or cleaning
agents. The use of these materials may
affect transmission operation and result
in damage to internal transmission
components.

 

No dipstick or fill tube

 

How does the dealer add fluid and know it’s at the correct level?

 

The trans is filled like a differential. There is a plug in the side of the trans, fill until it just trickles out.

 

There's should be a small dipstick on top of the pan on the passenger side which should be the same as the 10R80 in the F150. You have to lay under it to see it. There is a hex head sticking up out of it. You can remove it with a socket or wrench then you can pull it out and check it like a conventional dipstick. They tell you its sealed for life because they want you to blow it up so they can make a ton of money off of you. No transmission on earth is sealed for life. Plus when its older, it is a throwaway vehicle.

 

I just hit 7K miles and mine still does it.... brought it in they said its normal.... of course it doesn't do it when tech drives. Im bringing mine back again and demanding a re-flash.

 

My is still shifting rough (@7k miles)but nowhere near what it was doing a few weeks back. I pulled out of our campsite and the 1-2 shift was loud enough that the neighboring RVers jerked around to see what the hell made that noise. It felt like the tranny might fall out of the truck during those next 4-6 shifts during that drive.