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How to replace door lock cylinders in the dumbest way possible
So the ignition lock cylinder in my truck has worn to the point where I can turn it on the first attempt maybe one in ten times. rather than replace only that and have to carry 2 different keys, I decided to replace all the lock cylinders on the truck.
Phase 2: Remove obstructions to removing the lock cylinder. I opted to replace the lock without removing the handle from the door. This was because the thought of snapping open a 20-yo plastic clasp in 20 degree weather to release the latch operating rod did not sit well with me.
Step 2a: Remove bottom corner panel clips and peel door liner back.
Step 2b: Release the lock operating rod. Snap ring spreading pliers are ideal for this.
Step 2c: Remove latch mechanism screws. This is to allow the latch operating rod to move far away enough to allow the lock cylinder to slide out.
Another great write-up, thanks Leonard! I have added this to the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder where several more of your write-ups reside for the rest of eternity.
Not sure what all the locks cost you (the link you posted goes to a single ignition cylinder) but as an alternate method you could probably take your ignition cylinder out and have a lock smith replace the wafers for $20 to $30. Then you get to keep your old keys.
If you have sticky locks then this stuff is the bomb
Phase 4: Take door card back off to retrieve worklight that I left inside the door.
Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG
Thanks for doing a nice write up with pics (cartoons always help)
So were all of your locks worn out or just the ignition?
Not sure what all the locks cost you (the link you posted goes to a single ignition cylinder) but as an alternate method you could probably take your ignition cylinder out and have a lock smith replace the wafers for $20 to $30. Then you get to keep your old keys.
If you have sticky locks then this stuff is the bomb
Unlike wd40 and other sprays it leaves no residue for dirt to cling to. A shot in your locks once a year keeps them working smoothly for a long time.
It was just the ignition lock that was worn. I wish I had known about the locksmith replacing the wafers option. The entire set cost me just over $100. I will correct the link in the first post to point to the right item. Thanks for the info on the lock lube. Maybe I won't have to replace locks ever again if I use this stuff.
Originally Posted by Sous
Another great write-up, thanks Leonard! I have added this to the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder where several more of your write-ups reside for the rest of eternity.