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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 04:43 PM
  #46  
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Video link is below...

 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 06:07 PM
  #47  
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Thanks for your help with the video, Sous. And the rest of your advice. You ROCK! Still no luck, but feel like we are getting close.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 06:14 PM
  #48  
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And thanks to you ajbrown208, your offer to come all that way to help is highly unexpected and greatly appreciated! I am still in shock. You are a kind and generous person, and I will not forget it. I hope we can figure this out before you come all that way, but you are welcome at my home anytime.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 07:09 PM
  #49  
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Yes sir. You betcha. That truck is not far from starting. Someone on here should be able to put a finger on the problem.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 07:49 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by rjdj1186
And thanks to you ajbrown208, your offer to come all that way to help is highly unexpected and greatly appreciated! I am still in shock. You are a kind and generous person, and I will not forget it. I hope we can figure this out before you come all that way, but you are welcome at my home anytime.
Don't be shocked. There are many of us on this site that are willing to help others when we are able. You are too far away form me.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 08:21 PM
  #51  
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He, maybe give us a summary of what you have done to make it a bit easier for someone to pop in with an idea.

Something like...

- Initial sign of problem.
- Replaced x sensors or x parts with Motorcraft or parts store inventory
- What scan tool you may be using or learning to use
- What areas you have inspected or checked for faults/issues

We understand this is frustrating for you and we want to help, but we need you to keep giving us clues to finish the puzzle.

 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 08:26 PM
  #52  
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Do we know fuel pressure? Flow into filter (to fill) has been seen on many a truck on this forum and found not to be good enough to make it run correctly.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 09:20 PM
  #53  
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Summary

-Truck ran and started fine for first month of ownership.
Water in fuel light always on, heard that was likely a bad sensor not to worry.
-Found fuel leaking in engine compartment, discovered crack in fuel bowl drain valve from ice. Found drain hose plugged with mud. Cleaned drain hose from engine compartment with wire, replaced drain valve. Started and ran fine another month or so. Filter looked ok and was new according to car dealer. Found brownish gunk in bottom of fuel bowl.
-Started truck and let it warm for 10 minutes or so, drove 100ft and lost throttle, pedal did nothing, but engine continued to run at idle. Limped it back at idle and turned it off.
It has not started since. Just almost start as in video.
-Replaced icp sensor, which had oil in the plug, and cps. Both from rock auto. No change.
-Had a baby and all that goes with it, truck sat for nearly 2 months.
-Got back to it and batteries were dead. Had tested at oriellys, both bad. Bought 2 batteries. Same no start.
-Bought obdii bluetooth thing and got torque lite app. App would only show readings on throttle and vac, all other parameters did not move, showed dash for control voltage. Said no codes stored.
-Reinstalled original cps, as I heard that aftermarket cps are not reliable. No change.
-Tried to remove ipr valve but can't get my hands on a socket to fit locally. (I live in BFE)
-While poking around, I failed to fully tighten the fuel filter and cap assembly, which is one piece in my truck, and saw fuel spray out when I turned key. Tightened cap fully and truck then started for a fraction of a second and died. Has not started again.
-On advice I ran fuel pump several times before trying to start, same. Tried to loosen fuel bowl cap and it was VERY hard to turn, and sprayed fuel everywhere and pushed out gasket when it did finally loosen.
-That is where it stands, washed up to cook dinner for the family.
-Guess I will get a new fuel filter tomorrow and continue the fun. Probably check fuel bowl output for obstruction.
Anybody know which connection is the output?
Anybody have any other suggestions?
I tried beating my head against the barn door, but that didn't help either.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 09:27 PM
  #54  
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And I checked every fuse under the dash, found the one for trailer lights blown, can't recall the number. Replaced with new 20a. Switched relays around, no change. Checked voltage at glow plug relay by fuel bowl, good.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 09:37 PM
  #55  
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1. What app/program are you using to read the PCM?
2. Hard to see in the video, but the Wait To Start" or curly light comes on after turning key to on?
3. Have you tried plugging the block heater in for a few hours then try to star?
4. Do you have a multimeter or test light so you can see if the GPR is working on both big lugs, not just the constant 12v?
5. Rock Auto sells all sorts of parts, were the replaced sensors Motorcraft?
6. If you unplug the ICP and try to start the truck, what happens?
7. Are you seeing any white smoke out of the tailpipe when it is cranking and trying to start?
8. Are you aware of any alarm or theft system installed by the previous owner?
9. Batteries need ~10.5v when cranking the starter to fire the engine.
10. Oil level is good?
11. When turning the key to on, can you hear the fuel pump or climb under the truck to feel it priming the fuel system?
12. The is a standpipe in the fuel bowl with slots that must be lined up to allow fuel to the engine.

Thanks for the summary, keep talking us through this...
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 09:54 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Sous
1. What app/program are you using to read the PCM?
2. Hard to see in the video, but the Wait To Start" or curly light comes on after turning key to on?
3. Have you tried plugging the block heater in for a few hours then try to star?
4. Do you have a multimeter or test light so you can see if the GPR is working on both big lugs, not just the constant 12v?
5. Rock Auto sells all sorts of parts, were the replaced sensors Motorcraft?
6. If you unplug the ICP and try to start the truck, what happens?
7. Are you seeing any white smoke out of the tailpipe when it is cranking and trying to start?
8. Are you aware of any alarm or theft system installed by the previous owner?
9. Batteries need ~10.5v when cranking the starter to fire the engine.
10. Oil level is good?
11. When turning the key to on, can you hear the fuel pump or climb under the truck to feel it priming the fuel system?
12. The is a standpipe in the fuel bowl with slots that must be lined up to allow fuel to the engine.

Thanks for the summary, keep talking us through this...
1 torque lite app
2 curlyque light comes on with key
3 block heater plugged in all night last night and throughout the day today
4 have multimeter, checked at lug with 3 wires attached that video I saw said was output.
5 parts listed as ford motor products
6 tried to unplug icp, no change
7 saw smoke once, right after new batteries. None since.
8 no alarm that I know of
9 new batteries, did not check. Had 11.8 at gpr.
10 oil is topped off and black
11 can hear fuel pump run, and saw fuel spray out of filter cap when key turned.
12 Did not know about slots in standpipe, will definitely check it out.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 10:05 PM
  #57  
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A couple people have said this but it sounds fuel related.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 11:14 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by renoduckman
A couple people have said this but it sounds fuel related.
Yep, about 75% across several forums. Ipr valve, IDM (whatever that is), pcm, and cps (in spite of the new one) being some other things I have heard more than once. Hutch mod has come up, I had to ask what that was. Injector o-rings, HPOP, piston rings, valve shims (?), glow plug relay, valve gasket connector plug thing (they did not call it that, that's what it is in MY head), a few others I can't remember at the moment. I have heard it all. And keep it coming! I will be a diesel specialist against my will before my truck starts again!
But , hey; You can laugh, or you can cry.
I try to laugh, but sometimes I still cry. Or, yell and scream, more like.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 06:03 AM
  #59  
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01__Excursion
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Sounds like you are faced with many maintenance issues carried over from previous ownership. I can't speak with exact definition as I have been fortunate not to have repairs caused by failed parts, I have been voluntarily replacing many parts over the last few years due to their condition, age, or wet with oil, etc.
Re check your throttle response with your torque app, I don't know what the numbers are but I can give you a reference numbers from my readings with the Forscan program on my laptop obtained from my throttle.
It also sounds like your fuel system should be looked at entirely so it can be ruled out. Your gauge is showing a fair amount of volume in the tank, aside from the fuel bowl conditions, you may actually have high amounts of water in the tank. I don't know if the drain valve is able to tolerate being left open with the filter cap on while the pump is running to purge the bowl. Alternately you can remove the discharge hose on the fuel pump located on the frame rail under the drivers seat area, this will allow you to run fuel into a container and inspect for water and pumping consistency. Might be easier to focus on one or 2 things at a time till you know they are fully functional.

 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 06:43 AM
  #60  
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I don't know if the drain valve is able to tolerate being left open with the filter cap on while the pump is running to purge the bowl.
I do. Last time in changed my fuel filter as I was tightening the fuel bowl cap, Lighting slap and scared me pretty bad. So I forgot to close the drain valve. The truck stared but was running rough and I thought it would smooth out. It was raining so hard that I couldn't tell fuel was leaking. Within a minute it quit and wouldn't start back. Aaah, my fuel bowl is clean now. Anyway, that is what my truck sounded like trying to start: same as the video Sous posted.
 
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