I'm very happy with it, apart from the scratches I already put in it while installing it. But I am very happy.
I got it online, just gotta know the right places to look and be willing to take a risk 😉

 

Well I got the rotor on and was checking out the caliper. It doesn't fit... The offset from caliper ear on the knuckle is the same for both trucks, but the hole spacing from hole to hole is larger (10" on the 13' brakes, and 8.438" on the 08' brakes). So theres no way to make an adapter bracket since the offset is essentially the same, and the bolt is just a little further out.

Only way to do it is to cut off the ears and weld on some new ones, which probably wouldn't be very safe or easy to do correctly.

Or you could swap out the 13' knuckles, but idk if the unit bearings, stub shafts, ball joints etc are the same.

So bottom line, not worth it.

 

Yeah sometimes the work or money for a mod isn't worth it all because it gains essentially nothing. Good work.

 

Well, long time update on what I've been working on and stuff...

I semi-finished the drawing for a Modular flatbed for the OBS trucks. It starts out like this, and you can add options from there (Air bag mounts, bumper hitch, gooseneck hitch, fuel cell, lights, stakesides, etc)

Best part, it weighs 587lbs, only about 100lbs more than a stock bed.

 

I've almost finished putting together all the parts for the 08 axle to go in, and my god it's so many parts...
Bilstein 5100s front and rear
New ball joints
New heim steering
New track bar joint and bushing
All new wheel studs
New axle seals
Hub rebuild kit
Blue top steering box
Rotors
New calipers
Hawk pads
Nuts and bolts (omg so many nuts and bolts, and they're expensive as *****!)
And probably so much more that I've already forgotten.

I've also been working on a lot of stuff, and here is one of those things. I got to scan the knuckle for the 08 Dana 60, and then make a new steering arm for the drag link and tie rod. The relocation allows me to do a couple things, namely, my tie rod can now stay straight, and not come into contact with the diff cover, even at extreme turning angles. Another big thing that I was trying to accomplish with this, is I was able to nail a true "Perfect Ackerman", which if you are unfamiliar, it is something that affects steering and low speed handling, do some google/youtube searches, and you'll find a bunch of info on it. It also allows me to have a true double shear on both heim joints, which is a big plus.

 

Then last week I finally installed 4.30's into my 10.5. I finally got fed up with the 3.73s and towing heavy on the last trip that I went ahead and ordered it. I set it up myself and a friend and everything came out awesome. RPMS went from 1550 at 65mph with 3.73's to 1950 with 4.30's. Feels much more torquey and I'm very happy.

Hope to get the new front axle in with matching gears soon.

I also installed a new coolant reservoir, old one was so hammered from a ***** napa battery spitting acid all over it.


Then I tried out my new boost leak detector I got from Dieselsite. Took me about 20 min but I found a huge leak under the driver side intake plenum. So I plan on making a custom set


Then I did my rear axle stud conversion, using 1/2" studs and flange nuts.

 

Killer idea on the flatbed

Also on the steering setup. That's my biggest disappointment with the '97 axle I have. That linkage leaves much to be desired. I'm super interested to see how your redesign performs. Awesome work!

 

Also, did you have issues with the axle flange bolts? I'm curious what prompted going to studs

 

Jesus LTDan your skill/fab work is insane, I dig the flatbed idea.

 

Thanks, I hope it works out as well as I have it planned.

When I replaced the 10.25 with the 10.5, I removed all the axle bolts to find the threads completely flattened on almost every bolt, and by a thread on PSN by lovesdunes, i opted to stud this one as a preventative maintenance.
Thank you!

 

Makes sense. I chased the threads on the hub but by the look of the bolts I may end up doing the same.

One more question if you don't mind, and my apologies if I missed it above. But, did you keep the metric lug pattern on your axles?

 

I did not, I converted to 8x6.5. It's pretty darn easy and I like my wheels.

 

Thanks, that's what I thought. I've been reaching out to machine shops for it, and the only actual quote I've heard so far is $300 for drilling the new pattern + $40 for turning them so my wheels fit. That's at a reputable motorsports/racing company and sounds like they've done it before, but I'm having a little bit of sticker shock over it. I went to the local shop too but it didn't seem like they wanted the work.

If you didn't drill yours yourself, is that anywhere near what you had into machining on the hubs? (I'm only doing rears).

Thanks again!

 

Can you fit your rim over the flange bolts? Almost looks like it will hit if you try and take your wheel off.

 

I had my first one done at a machine shop for somewhere around $250. When I did my rear axle I did it myself and bought E350 rotors so I only had to do the hubs. I put the hubs in our waterjet and blew new holes in there rather than drilling.

On my 08 axle that I'm putting in soon, I just drilled them myself with a template and a drill press. We'll see how good of a job I did when I try and drive it.

All of mine I didnt need to turn them down because my wheel hub was large enough to fit.

I havent tried yet, but the axle flange is a smaller diameter than the hub diameter, so I'm hoping it does, but if not, then I'll either get smaller nuts or take a little sander to them, just enough to clear.

If worse comes to worse and I'm on the side of the road, its not that big of a deal to undo 8 more nuts.